Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Witchboard last won the day on May 27

Witchboard had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Witchboard

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oklahoma City

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Okay, I found it. Just for future reference, the brown is ground, black is high and purple is low. I tested it just to make sure this evening. I turned off the engine before it reached temp and let it creep up while shut off with my multi-meter connected. Should be able to finish up my wiring tomorrow. Had to come in because the mosquitoes were trying to carry me away.
  2. Got my new sensor in and it's working, but I can't figure out the pinout. I ran the car up to temp and they all 3 seem to make continuity at the same time. I get that 15 degrees isn't a lot when you're around 200, but I would have thought I'd at least be able to figure which is ground. Doesn't seem to matter which two I connect, they all beep my multi-meter. Anybody know the pinout of this? I've tried searching online, but can't seem to find one. I checked the forum, but maybe I'm not looking for the right key words.
  3. Bummer. Thanks. At least they aren't that expensive. Might as well buy a new one rather than pull another from LKQ.
  4. I'm wiring up my electric fan in the Z, using the Ford Taurus fan. My question is about the BMW temperature switch. Mine has 3 wires, I presume a high temp, low temp and ground. I wasn't sure which wire was which, so I started my car warmed it up and put my multi-meter across all the connections. I'm presuming it would just close the circuit, but I'm not getting any continuity across any of the pins. I started it back up and basically red lined it on temp and still nothing. Is my understanding how this thing works incorrect? Do I need to ground the housing? Do I have a bad sensor?
  5. Never mind. The measurements are in the book. They are in the front under Motor Mount Brackets. Thanks all!
  6. The manual says to use 1986-1993 S-10 Chevy truck rubber mounting pads, but was just wanting to confirm these fit with the Griffin radiators.
  7. Does anybody have any technical drawings of the JTR radiator mount? There's none in the V8 conversion book and it doesn't appear he's selling them anymore. I bought a Griffin aluminium radiator to replace my old 3 core and it sits proud where it will hit the hood. For those whom are using Griffins, what rubber are you using with your radiator?
  8. Just thought I'd update this for posterity. I found that it's a Mr. Gasket 4 Speed Pro Shifter. It was out of adjustment, but after attempting to bleed the clutch I figured out the master cylinder wasn't working and the slave was basically full of sludge. Tried cleaning them, but they were pretty pitted to I ended up replacing both and it's working again. There's still something mechanically wrong with the shifter. It binds while trying to go into first, but that's something to look forward to fixing in the future, likely with a replacement.
  9. Thanks for the additional info. I'll check on it once it thaws out.
  10. I used the weatherstripping that came in the kit from Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/weatherstriping-kit-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=2&_sid=76a3a2336&_ss=r# Reviewing that link, I think we are talking about two different weather stripping. I'm talking about the side window frame gasket that goes on top of the door, not the door seal that goes on the body.
  11. It looks to me the door latches are as close to the body as they can get. I can double check though.
  12. Here's an updated video to show what it was doing. I pulled it up and it moved a little on the back, but didn't fix it. I then loosened up all the screws and pulled the top toward the car and now it seems to seal.
  13. I may be able to slide under the car on Sunday. Supposed to rain tomorrow and will get pretty cold next week. Thanks.
  14. Thanks. I presume I need to pull the transmission out to get it off the clutch to test. Looks like it needs a new rear seal anyway. I'll clean up and grease the shifter while it's out as well.
  15. I'll make another and show what I'm experiencing. I'll check all the bolt holes and see if there's any wiggle room. I'm also going to check and see if it may be warped by comparing it to my passenger's side door. Thanks!
  • Create New...