Jump to content
HybridZ

Witchboard

Members
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Witchboard

  1. Thanks for the additional info. I'll check on it once it thaws out.
  2. I used the weatherstripping that came in the kit from Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/weatherstriping-kit-rubber-seal-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=2&_sid=76a3a2336&_ss=r# Reviewing that link, I think we are talking about two different weather stripping. I'm talking about the side window frame gasket that goes on top of the door, not the door seal that goes on the body.
  3. It looks to me the door latches are as close to the body as they can get. I can double check though.
  4. Here's an updated video to show what it was doing. I pulled it up and it moved a little on the back, but didn't fix it. I then loosened up all the screws and pulled the top toward the car and now it seems to seal.
  5. I may be able to slide under the car on Sunday. Supposed to rain tomorrow and will get pretty cold next week. Thanks.
  6. Thanks. I presume I need to pull the transmission out to get it off the clutch to test. Looks like it needs a new rear seal anyway. I'll clean up and grease the shifter while it's out as well.
  7. I'll make another and show what I'm experiencing. I'll check all the bolt holes and see if there's any wiggle room. I'm also going to check and see if it may be warped by comparing it to my passenger's side door. Thanks!
  8. I inherited this V8 Z from my father. I've been working on getting it back on the road. I finally got it back into a driving condition, but I've lost both first and second gear. Second gear went first, then first gear just started grinding. Good thing this has a low gear ratio. Hit every stop light and had to start in 3rd, but I digress. I'm not sure if it's a shifter issue, transmission issue or clutch issue, so I'm working through the components. It's got a 4 speed Saginaw torque tube tailshaft transmission. I'm not sure what this shifter is. It does not appear to be a Hu
  9. Just an update. Tach is working after re-installation. So putting it back together gingerly seems to have resolved the issue.
  10. I just finished installing my weatherstripping on my 1977 280z. The side window frame gasket that installs on top of the door isn't meeting the frame and it's leaking. It did this before I replaced the weatherstripping, so I thought it would fix the issue, but there's still a slight gap. The passenger side seems fine, it's just the driver side that's the issue. It's installed in the correct orientation. It meets the frame fine at the windshield and towards the back, but pulls away in the middle. I checked the door and the body lines seem fine, so I don't think the door is out
  11. But it doesn't really indicate how it's routed on the back of the dash. Either way, I just put directly onto the side outlet and then routed the ducting to the splitter. Have to find ducting to go from that piece to the floor anyway, so I can snake it around to make it work. Thanks for the response!
  12. I'm about to install my dash back into my 77 280z. The ducting had deteriorated and was thrown away before I started working on it. I've been trying to find reference to the routing and have been coming up empty. Couldn't find it in the service manual. Passengers side pretty self explanatory, but the driver side as an elbow with another smaller output for the floor of the driver side. I can't figure out where the elbow is supposed to go in. Does it just slide directly into the driver side vent?
  13. I have an issue where my door gets caught on something when turning on the heat. I can push on the actuator lever and it will, "pop" then open the rest of the way on it's own. I checked it when I had the evaporator coil out. Door seems to move freely when not connected to the actuator. Not sure what's up with it.
  14. I've cut and replaced the firewall where it rusted out under the battery on my 77 280z. I figured I may as well replace the wiring harness boot while I have it out since mine is dry rotted and torn. Any source cheaper than $50 for a 2.5" diameter piece of rubber? I mean, I can, but dayum...
  15. I did the coat hanger trick and it worked a treat. It will last me long enough until I can get around to getting new locks.
  16. That's the exact plug I'm talking about. Funny thing is, I already have a pin extractor tool and popped them all out so I could continue to work, but the blue connector is still fast installed in the junction box. I took pictures, so I guess it's not that bad if I just put them back where they belong once I'm finished replacing the firewall there. Thanks for the link.
  17. I'm needing to pull the wires through the firewall and I can't figure out how to get the blue connector out of the junction block. It looks like it's the block is designed to be squeezed on the sides of the connector, but I can't manage to pop it free and I'm afraid I'll crack the block. Any tips?
  18. Disassembled the tach again over the past couple of days. Figured out if I tightened anything down past barely finger tight it would start to seize the movement. So I completely took it apart and put it back together gingerly and the needle is still free flowing. Not sure when I'll get it back in the car for testing, but hopefully it works as expected after this.
  19. Figured I had nothing to lose. Cracked open that switch and it was full of green oxidation. Cleaned it all up and put it back together and now it's working like a champ. My plastics were old and brittle so I ended up using a couple of zip ties to secure it together.
  20. Thanks. I haven't ordered them yet, so nothing to hold on to. I was just making a list before ordering.
  21. Not sure. Most of the mechanism is hidden. It looks like some kind of scissor action and it just stops. I guess I don't need these then. Thanks everybody for the feedback.
  22. I found another thread that has pictures and everything, but it doesn't look like my doors have them? Am I missing something? Here's the pics of the inside of my doors both towards the rear and front. I don't even see where they are supposed to mount like what's posted here.
  23. I've looked in the service manual, and on my car and I can't seem to find where these things go. https://zcardepot.com/products/door-window-glass-bumper-rubber-stop-1970-78?variant=19277609861233# I'm replacing all the rubber on the doors and was wanting to check these, but I can't find them. The description indicates they are in the door towards the rear at the bottom. I don't know if mine are missing or if the 1977 is just different. With my windows rolled down, I don't see it hitting a bumper anywhere. Sorry for my ignorance, but does anybody else have a clue? N
×
×
  • Create New...