Witchboard
-
Posts
46 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Witchboard
-
-
Got my new sensor in and it's working, but I can't figure out the pinout. I ran the car up to temp and they all 3 seem to make continuity at the same time. I get that 15 degrees isn't a lot when you're around 200, but I would have thought I'd at least be able to figure which is ground. Doesn't seem to matter which two I connect, they all beep my multi-meter. Anybody know the pinout of this? I've tried searching online, but can't seem to find one. I checked the forum, but maybe I'm not looking for the right key words.
-
Bummer. Thanks. At least they aren't that expensive. Might as well buy a new one rather than pull another from LKQ.
-
I'm wiring up my electric fan in the Z, using the Ford Taurus fan. My question is about the BMW temperature switch. Mine has 3 wires, I presume a high temp, low temp and ground. I wasn't sure which wire was which, so I started my car warmed it up and put my multi-meter across all the connections. I'm presuming it would just close the circuit, but I'm not getting any continuity across any of the pins. I started it back up and basically red lined it on temp and still nothing. Is my understanding how this thing works incorrect? Do I need to ground the housing? Do I have a bad sensor?
-
Never mind. The measurements are in the book. They are in the front under Motor Mount Brackets. Thanks all!
-
1
-
-
The manual says to use 1986-1993 S-10 Chevy truck rubber mounting pads, but was just wanting to confirm these fit with the Griffin radiators.
-
Does anybody have any technical drawings of the JTR radiator mount? There's none in the V8 conversion book and it doesn't appear he's selling them anymore. I bought a Griffin aluminium radiator to replace my old 3 core and it sits proud where it will hit the hood. For those whom are using Griffins, what rubber are you using with your radiator?
-
Just thought I'd update this for posterity. I found that it's a Mr. Gasket 4 Speed Pro Shifter. It was out of adjustment, but after attempting to bleed the clutch I figured out the master cylinder wasn't working and the slave was basically full of sludge. Tried cleaning them, but they were pretty pitted to I ended up replacing both and it's working again. There's still something mechanically wrong with the shifter. It binds while trying to go into first, but that's something to look forward to fixing in the future, likely with a replacement.
-
Thanks for the additional info. I'll check on it once it thaws out.
-
I used the weatherstripping that came in the kit from Z Car Depot.
Reviewing that link, I think we are talking about two different weather stripping. I'm talking about the side window frame gasket that goes on top of the door, not the door seal that goes on the body.
-
It looks to me the door latches are as close to the body as they can get. I can double check though.
-
Here's an updated video to show what it was doing. I pulled it up and it moved a little on the back, but didn't fix it. I then loosened up all the screws and pulled the top toward the car and now it seems to seal.
-
I may be able to slide under the car on Sunday. Supposed to rain tomorrow and will get pretty cold next week. Thanks.
-
Thanks. I presume I need to pull the transmission out to get it off the clutch to test. Looks like it needs a new rear seal anyway. I'll clean up and grease the shifter while it's out as well.
-
I'll make another and show what I'm experiencing. I'll check all the bolt holes and see if there's any wiggle room. I'm also going to check and see if it may be warped by comparing it to my passenger's side door. Thanks!
-
I inherited this V8 Z from my father. I've been working on getting it back on the road. I finally got it back into a driving condition, but I've lost both first and second gear. Second gear went first, then first gear just started grinding. Good thing this has a low gear ratio. Hit every stop light and had to start in 3rd, but I digress.
I'm not sure if it's a shifter issue, transmission issue or clutch issue, so I'm working through the components. It's got a 4 speed Saginaw torque tube tailshaft transmission. I'm not sure what this shifter is. It does not appear to be a Hurst and it did not come on the transmission.
I've been looking online and think it's a Mr. Gasket shifter.
-
Just an update. Tach is working after re-installation. So putting it back together gingerly seems to have resolved the issue.
-
I just finished installing my weatherstripping on my 1977 280z. The side window frame gasket that installs on top of the door isn't meeting the frame and it's leaking. It did this before I replaced the weatherstripping, so I thought it would fix the issue, but there's still a slight gap. The passenger side seems fine, it's just the driver side that's the issue. It's installed in the correct orientation. It meets the frame fine at the windshield and towards the back, but pulls away in the middle.
I checked the door and the body lines seem fine, so I don't think the door is out of alignment. I also took a few bolts out of the door where the top of the window frame bolts to the door and doesn't appear there's any adjustment there. I've linked a video below. Any tips?
-
But it doesn't really indicate how it's routed on the back of the dash. Either way, I just put directly onto the side outlet and then routed the ducting to the splitter. Have to find ducting to go from that piece to the floor anyway, so I can snake it around to make it work. Thanks for the response!
-
I'm about to install my dash back into my 77 280z. The ducting had deteriorated and was thrown away before I started working on it. I've been trying to find reference to the routing and have been coming up empty. Couldn't find it in the service manual. Passengers side pretty self explanatory, but the driver side as an elbow with another smaller output for the floor of the driver side. I can't figure out where the elbow is supposed to go in. Does it just slide directly into the driver side vent?
-
I have an issue where my door gets caught on something when turning on the heat. I can push on the actuator lever and it will, "pop" then open the rest of the way on it's own. I checked it when I had the evaporator coil out. Door seems to move freely when not connected to the actuator. Not sure what's up with it.
-
Cool. I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!
-
I've cut and replaced the firewall where it rusted out under the battery on my 77 280z. I figured I may as well replace the wiring harness boot while I have it out since mine is dry rotted and torn. Any source cheaper than $50 for a 2.5" diameter piece of rubber? I mean, I can, but dayum...
-
I did the coat hanger trick and it worked a treat. It will last me long enough until I can get around to getting new locks.
-
That's the exact plug I'm talking about. Funny thing is, I already have a pin extractor tool and popped them all out so I could continue to work, but the blue connector is still fast installed in the junction box. I took pictures, so I guess it's not that bad if I just put them back where they belong once I'm finished replacing the firewall there. Thanks for the link.
BMW Temp Switch Questions
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Okay, I found it. Just for future reference, the brown is ground, black is high and purple is low. I tested it just to make sure this evening. I turned off the engine before it reached temp and let it creep up while shut off with my multi-meter connected. Should be able to finish up my wiring tomorrow. Had to come in because the mosquitoes were trying to carry me away.