Witchboard

I'm needing to pull the wires through the firewall and I can't figure out how to get the blue connector out of the junction block. It looks like it's the block is designed to be squeezed on the sides of the connector, but I can't manage to pop it free and I'm afraid I'll crack the block. Any tips?

Disassembled the tach again over the past couple of days. Figured out if I tightened anything down past barely finger tight it would start to seize the movement. So I completely took it apart and put it back together gingerly and the needle is still free flowing. Not sure when I'll get it back in the car for testing, but hopefully it works as expected after this.

Figured I had nothing to lose. Cracked open that switch and it was full of green oxidation. Cleaned it all up and put it back together and now it's working like a champ. My plastics were old and brittle so I ended up using a couple of zip ties to secure it together.

Thanks. Will do!

Thanks. I haven't ordered them yet, so nothing to hold on to. I was just making a list before ordering.

Not sure. Most of the mechanism is hidden. It looks like some kind of scissor action and it just stops. I guess I don't need these then. Thanks everybody for the feedback.

I found another thread that has pictures and everything, but it doesn't look like my doors have them? Am I missing something? Here's the pics of the inside of my doors both towards the rear and front. I don't even see where they are supposed to mount like what's posted here.

I've looked in the service manual, and on my car and I can't seem to find where these things go. https://zcardepot.com/products/door-window-glass-bumper-rubber-stop-1970-78?variant=19277609861233# I'm replacing all the rubber on the doors and was wanting to check these, but I can't find them. The description indicates they are in the door towards the rear at the bottom. I don't know if mine are missing or if the 1977 is just different. With my windows rolled down, I don't see it hitting a bumper anywhere. Sorry for my ignorance, but does anybody else have a clue? Never mind. Forum search to the rescue.

That coat hanger trick looks good. I was planning on drilling and pinning, but that looks simpler and will give that a shot. If I mess it up, I can always fall back to plan B, buying replacement locks. Thanks for the links!

Sure thing. Here's another angle.

I popped it back into the dash and tested today. It worked, but not well. Still doing more research.

I think since it looks cast and thus can't be welded, I'm going to try drilling it with a pin bit and inserting some pins and see how that works. If it's trash, pretty much can't make it any worse.

Of course! Have you already tried the larger clips? I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a couple with a thicker diameter wire than the original. Fixed the passenger side, but no dice on the driver's.

I thought of that too. Thank you for the part numbers.

I tried that, but I can do it some more. Worse case scenario I guess I can desolder it, pull the pin and try to remove the board.

Thanks for the response. I may just split it apart and see what's up. Likely contacts are burned up. I plan on doing a relay conversion for my headlights anyway, so who knows what I'll come up with.

The only thing I found was pretty much the same question with no responses. lol I guess I'll just tear into the thing then if anybody else asks, I'll know. Might check YouTube first though... Well, lookie here... Funny thing is mine started working when I loosened the nuts as well on the posts.

Thanks for the response. I have a V8 installed, but wasn't sure where to ask exactly. Looks like you're a mod. If it would be better somewhere else, please feel free to move it. I'll search the forum to see if I can find something about disassembling the tach and cleaning it up.

Looks like I have worn door locks. I've already tried using a larger clip and that fixed the passenger door, but the drivers door is still too sloppy. I can see where it's worn on the cylinder and it just lets the actuator flop around too much. Anybody got any suggestions? This looks cast so I don't think I could weld on it to build it back up.

I'm needing a replacement headlight dimmer switch. Confirmed mine is bad using an ohmmeter. No continuity on high beams. Everything I've found they are wanting to sell the entire stalk, which I'm not needing. Everything else functions as expected. Anybody know of a source?

My tach is sticking, well, it's really not working much at all, but when it does, it just sticks. I've taken it out, but I'm ignorant about how it's supposed to work. If use my fingers and move the needle over to 8K, is it supposed to swing all the way back to zero? Because mine only swings as far back as 2 or 2.5K. There are several adjustments on the back. Is one of these for the spring tension? From searching the forum I know the one in the hole is for adjusting the tach, but wasn't sure what the other two were for.