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SteveB

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About SteveB

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    Illinois
  1. One more thing! It will not go in reverse, even when engine is not running. So I don’t think it will not go in because trans is moving. I think it is most likely a sheared pin or broken fork as you guys suggested. Guess only way to tell is pull it out. It probably needs a new clutch anyway. I’ll look for U tune video to guide me. Thanx again SteveB
  2. Thanx Not sure why it sat for 20 years. Was told it ran when parked but nothing else. I know it had quite a few issues once I started on it. First was that battery would have went dead quickly as the taillights were always on, easy fix with brake pedal switch. It also ran poorly, even after new gas/oil/filters/full ignition tune up, coolant flush, etc. So I replaced all three of the sensors in the thermostat housing and now it runs great. Oh, and I did put in a new fuel pump, as old one was crusty and full of crud. Clutch was also stuck when I got it
  3. Ok, so my late model 1977 280Z has the original 5 speed manual. It will not shift into reverse at all. It will go up into 5 but not all the way so it pops out. All other gears shift fine, no grinding, no sticking. Everything seems fine, except shifter will not move over and into reverse. This car has been sitting for about 20 years. So I changes the trans fluid. It’s was dirty and had some metal shaving on the magnetic plug, but not bad and no big pieces. Shifter was very sloppy, so I took it out, cleaned everything, put in new bushings, even the plastic bushing on t
  4. Happy New Year everyone. I’m please to report that my oil gauge is now working great 😊. The solution was getting the correct sender. The correct part is from Beck Arnley # 201-1170. I got it on Amazon Prime for just under $40 delivered. I think the issue is that my car was a late model 1977. Built 10/77. So I think it has some of the build aspects of 1978 and later cars, including the ZX. Now I know to watch for that. I even ordered the PDF version of the full manual for 1978 to make comparisons if I run into issues. Thank to all for your help and I h
  5. Thanks to everyone who replied and helped me out. I found the Beck Arnley 2 terminal sending unit on Amazon and ordered it. Part # 201-1170. Hopefully that one will work. ( Still waiting to see if ZCarDepot will let me return the Intermotor part for credit) I am curious about the sender/switch description for the 2 terminal part. I know the sender portion sends different level of ohms to the gauge based on the oil pressure. What does the switch control? I thought it might switch on an idiot/low pressure light when pressure drops too low. But I don’t think I have a low pr
  6. The one you suggest is the single terminal oil sender. I need the 2 terminal one. Wish I had the one wire/terminal set up. Much cheaper and seems like they are not an issue like the 2 wire ones. Thanx
  7. Thanks for the update. That is just the info I needed. I’ve checked everything again today and all seems in order but gauge still doesn’t work right. I have the 2 terminal oil sender set up. I just got a new one, 2 terminal one, from ZCarDepot, but it’s not a Beck Arnley part. It’s an Intermotor part, SKU # 800-036 from ZCarDepot, and part #PS173 My gauge with the part above does exactly what yours did. Goes all the way over with key in on position, then as soon as car is started it slowly drops down to zero and stays there. I’ll see if Z Car Depot will send me a
  8. Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I’ll give those a try. When you say to disconnect the pressure sensor do you mean the oil sender??? Plus what are each of the wires that connect the sender for? Most senders, including many other year 280z, have a one wire sender. I read somewhere that you could check gauge by using just one of the 2 wires. But don’t know which one. Thanks again SteveB
  9. I have a 1977 and it has the 2 terminal oil pressure sender. Gauge was not working at all but plenty of actual pressure. I tested it manually. So I bought a new sender from Z Parts. It’s the larger 2 terminal one. Now the gauge goes all the way up as soon as you turn on the key, or start the engine, then slowly goes back down to zero. I’m pretty sure that means the gauge is fine, so is the sender faulty or ?? I hate seeing no oil pressure on the gauge even thou I know I have pressure. Any suggestions? Thanx Steve
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