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Mike Mileski

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Mike Mileski last won the day on October 9 2016

Mike Mileski had the most liked content!

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About Mike Mileski

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    HybridZ Supporter

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    Tucson, AZ

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  1. Here's some 50mm long ones from Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/wheel-lug-studs-2-extended-racing-240z-260z-280z# Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  2. Allstar Performance sells one (ALL99050) but it doesn't say what the thread sizes are. I bought some from Techno Toy Tuning several years ago (3/4 inside thread, 1" outside thread) but I don't know if they sell them individually anymore. They're not listed on their site, you need to call and ask. Let us know if you're successful. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  3. I think Dirty Dingo is making some adapter plates that will mount the newer Gen V LT engines into a car that has mounts for an LS engine. In other words, you would need to buy their LS mounts for our cars (about $160) plus the adapter plates (which are about $60). I would definitely check with them first though, just to make sure I have it right. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  4. Maybe you could use these? http://www.ictbillet.com/engine-swap-bracket-chevy-sbc-ls-conversion-motor-mount-adapter-adjustable-plate-ls1.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  5. Seattlejester, changing the track width isn't why I'm advocating on the car adjustability. It's to allow the person that is performing the alignment the ability to make adjustments without continually disassembling and reassembling things. What would you do if you mounted these Apex arms and find out that you have to lengthen them a little bit in order to get the exact camber angle you want? You'd have to remove the spindle bolt, turn the rod end a few turns, reassemble it and then remeasure. And what if you didn't get it just right? You'd have to do it all over again. If that rod end was on-the-car adjustable, like the ones that TTT has on theirs, you could do it without all the disassembly and reassembly. Make sense? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  6. In my opinion they missed the boat by not making the stationary outer rod end "on-the-car" adjustable, like both outer rod ends are on the rear TTT arm. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  7. I'm reviving this old thread to rave about the new Braille battery I just bought and installed in my 1971 240Z. I recently purchased a GU1R Braille lithium battery, along with a custom Skillard mount, and was able to install it on the floor behind my passenger seat, completely out of sight (see picture). I have the 495 hp version LS3 crate engine in my 240Z (10.7:1 compression ratio). I needed a battery for one of my other cars and decided that, if I took the red top Optima out of my 240Z, I could upgrade to a lithium Braille unit that I've been thinking about since reading this thread four years ago. The Braille is much smaller than the Optima and about 30 pounds lighter. The improvement of the Braille battery was immediately apparent. I have a push button switch that I use to prime my fuel pump before starting the car. When I first pushed this switch after installing the Braille, the fuel pump ran noticeably much faster. Then, when I turned the key, the engine cranked over and started up like it was a small four cylinder. I was immediately impressed. I've started and driven the car several times this past week after installing the Braille and get a warm feeling each time I crank it over. If the other benefits described earlier in this thread are true (long shelf life, long life span, etc.), I now wish I had done this swap years ago. I understand that Braille is replacing the GU1R with the G30 model, which has the same performance specs, but is about an inch shorter and a few ounces lighter. I would highly recommend this to anyone that is considering a battery upgrade. Obviously, it wasn't cheap, Optimas are going for around $200 now and I paid $550 for the Braille from Summit but I feel that the performance, light weight, small size and Braille's clientele and track record justify it. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  8. I used a TTT kit to mount an R230 in my '71 240Z and, because I made my own rear control arms using heim joints on the inner pivots, I was able to lower the inner portion of the rear arm by about 1/8" so it cleared the axle shaft. I also had to mount the top of the R230 diff only about .030" below the rear crossmember to make everything work. I ordered my aluminum mustache bar without the two diff mount holes so I could drill them myself. It's worked fine for several years. I have another '71 Z that I plan on doing the same thing to. See the attached picture. I put 1/8" thick washers under the tabs that mount the rear inner arm to lower it. 1/8" is too small an amount to cause any negative effects on suspension issues. I've had zero issues. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  9. The Johns Cars kit was designed to work with those specific Sanderson headers. Hoke's wasn't. Z Car Depot just says that the headers fit LS engines, which they do. Unfortunately, not all of the engine mount kits are designed to work with those headers. I know for a fact that the CX Racing LS motor mount kit also won't work with the Sanderson headers. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  10. Just look up Ztrix.com and then click on Subtle Z. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  11. https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/subtlez/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  12. Nothing from the engine mounts, maybe the trans mount if you use the same trans. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  13. I hate to say it but, if it's that noticeable, it may have been tweaked in an accident and the rear portion of the car has been pushed over sideways a bit. A frame shop could tell you for sure. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  14. One off, custom made ones in my Subtle Z flared fiberglass front fenders. They're a couple of inches deep (inset inwards) and the vent panels are angled back. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  15. Oh crap! Back to the drawing board. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
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