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Mike Mileski

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Mike Mileski last won the day on March 10

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About Mike Mileski

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    Tucson, AZ

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  1. My thoughts, and I absolutely mean no disrespect and I think others will agree with me, is that, with the questions you are asking, whether you should even be attempting this task. You absolutely need to disassemble everything first. You can't just go cutting through a compressed spring (extremely dangerous) and a strut housing with a strut cartridge inside of it. And, sooner or later, you will need to remove the gland nut to insert a new strut cartridge to replace the one you cut in half with a new, shorter one. Mike Milesk Tucson, AZ
  2. The inner rod ends are 3/4" bore, 3/4" shank. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  3. Here's a picture of my current rear arms. The inner portion pivots on rod ends and both outer ends that attach to the upright are adjustable. I am currently designing another set that has the short outer adjustable arm towards the front of the car instead of at the rear. Absolutely no issues with these though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  4. Use a standard thermostat (no holes drilled in it) and try it. It has to run at the same or higher temperature than the thermostat rating (assuming that the temperature rating of the thermostat is accurate). Marlan Davis recommended a 160 degree high-flow thermostat (Summitt Racing part no. SUM-365-160) to me in the article they did relating to a question I sent in to Hot Rod Magazine on a cooling issue with my car. See the article at the link below. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/stop-hot-day-overheating-on-500hp-ls-engine/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  5. DonH, where did you find information that the C7 fan is actually a brushless Spal motor? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  6. Jon, check out the site linked below for drilled metric bolts. https://drilledheadbolts.com/t/metric-bolts Mike MIleski Tucson, AZ
  7. Here's some 50mm long ones from Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/wheel-lug-studs-2-extended-racing-240z-260z-280z# Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  8. Allstar Performance sells one (ALL99050) but it doesn't say what the thread sizes are. I bought some from Techno Toy Tuning several years ago (3/4 inside thread, 1" outside thread) but I don't know if they sell them individually anymore. They're not listed on their site, you need to call and ask. Let us know if you're successful. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  9. I think Dirty Dingo is making some adapter plates that will mount the newer Gen V LT engines into a car that has mounts for an LS engine. In other words, you would need to buy their LS mounts for our cars (about $160) plus the adapter plates (which are about $60). I would definitely check with them first though, just to make sure I have it right. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  10. Maybe you could use these? http://www.ictbillet.com/engine-swap-bracket-chevy-sbc-ls-conversion-motor-mount-adapter-adjustable-plate-ls1.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  11. Seattlejester, changing the track width isn't why I'm advocating on the car adjustability. It's to allow the person that is performing the alignment the ability to make adjustments without continually disassembling and reassembling things. What would you do if you mounted these Apex arms and find out that you have to lengthen them a little bit in order to get the exact camber angle you want? You'd have to remove the spindle bolt, turn the rod end a few turns, reassemble it and then remeasure. And what if you didn't get it just right? You'd have to do it all over again. If that rod end was on-t
  12. In my opinion they missed the boat by not making the stationary outer rod end "on-the-car" adjustable, like both outer rod ends are on the rear TTT arm. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
  13. I'm reviving this old thread to rave about the new Braille battery I just bought and installed in my 1971 240Z. I recently purchased a GU1R Braille lithium battery, along with a custom Skillard mount, and was able to install it on the floor behind my passenger seat, completely out of sight (see picture). I have the 495 hp version LS3 crate engine in my 240Z (10.7:1 compression ratio). I needed a battery for one of my other cars and decided that, if I took the red top Optima out of my 240Z, I could upgrade to a lithium Braille unit that I've been thinking about since reading this thread four ye
  14. I used a TTT kit to mount an R230 in my '71 240Z and, because I made my own rear control arms using heim joints on the inner pivots, I was able to lower the inner portion of the rear arm by about 1/8" so it cleared the axle shaft. I also had to mount the top of the R230 diff only about .030" below the rear crossmember to make everything work. I ordered my aluminum mustache bar without the two diff mount holes so I could drill them myself. It's worked fine for several years. I have another '71 Z that I plan on doing the same thing to. See the attached picture. I put 1/8" thick washers under the
  15. The Johns Cars kit was designed to work with those specific Sanderson headers. Hoke's wasn't. Z Car Depot just says that the headers fit LS engines, which they do. Unfortunately, not all of the engine mount kits are designed to work with those headers. I know for a fact that the CX Racing LS motor mount kit also won't work with the Sanderson headers. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ
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