Mike Mileski

Wow, I'm always learning something new. Thanks for the info. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

How did you know that you needed to change the polarity? Did that information come in the instructions with the Holley LED headlights? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Another Holley option (although a bit pricey) is their two piece valve covers. The bottom portion is the actual valve cover, to which the coils are mounted. Then the top portion is attached, with the coil ends protruding and barely visible, and you have the classic look of regular valve covers. Attached is a picture of them on a '71 Z I recently sold. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I have had a Braille GU1R lithium battery in my car for about three years now and I love it. Only 6.6 pounds and it spins over my 10.7:1 compression 495 HP LS3 with ease, hot or cold. Kind of pricey but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another (now it would be a G30, the GU1R was discontinued). Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

My thoughts, and I absolutely mean no disrespect and I think others will agree with me, is that, with the questions you are asking, whether you should even be attempting this task. You absolutely need to disassemble everything first. You can't just go cutting through a compressed spring (extremely dangerous) and a strut housing with a strut cartridge inside of it. And, sooner or later, you will need to remove the gland nut to insert a new strut cartridge to replace the one you cut in half with a new, shorter one. Mike Milesk Tucson, AZ

The inner rod ends are 3/4" bore, 3/4" shank. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Here's a picture of my current rear arms. The inner portion pivots on rod ends and both outer ends that attach to the upright are adjustable. I am currently designing another set that has the short outer adjustable arm towards the front of the car instead of at the rear. Absolutely no issues with these though. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Use a standard thermostat (no holes drilled in it) and try it. It has to run at the same or higher temperature than the thermostat rating (assuming that the temperature rating of the thermostat is accurate). Marlan Davis recommended a 160 degree high-flow thermostat (Summitt Racing part no. SUM-365-160) to me in the article they did relating to a question I sent in to Hot Rod Magazine on a cooling issue with my car. See the article at the link below. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/stop-hot-day-overheating-on-500hp-ls-engine/ Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

DonH, where did you find information that the C7 fan is actually a brushless Spal motor? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Jon, check out the site linked below for drilled metric bolts. https://drilledheadbolts.com/t/metric-bolts Mike MIleski Tucson, AZ

Here's some 50mm long ones from Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/wheel-lug-studs-2-extended-racing-240z-260z-280z# Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Allstar Performance sells one (ALL99050) but it doesn't say what the thread sizes are. I bought some from Techno Toy Tuning several years ago (3/4 inside thread, 1" outside thread) but I don't know if they sell them individually anymore. They're not listed on their site, you need to call and ask. Let us know if you're successful. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

I think Dirty Dingo is making some adapter plates that will mount the newer Gen V LT engines into a car that has mounts for an LS engine. In other words, you would need to buy their LS mounts for our cars (about $160) plus the adapter plates (which are about $60). I would definitely check with them first though, just to make sure I have it right. Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Maybe you could use these? http://www.ictbillet.com/engine-swap-bracket-chevy-sbc-ls-conversion-motor-mount-adapter-adjustable-plate-ls1.html Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ

Seattlejester, changing the track width isn't why I'm advocating on the car adjustability. It's to allow the person that is performing the alignment the ability to make adjustments without continually disassembling and reassembling things. What would you do if you mounted these Apex arms and find out that you have to lengthen them a little bit in order to get the exact camber angle you want? You'd have to remove the spindle bolt, turn the rod end a few turns, reassemble it and then remeasure. And what if you didn't get it just right? You'd have to do it all over again. If that rod end was on-the-car adjustable, like the ones that TTT has on theirs, you could do it without all the disassembly and reassembly. Make sense? Mike Mileski Tucson, AZ