pantera74

240z 70 to early 71 hatch in socal. ok if there is no glass since i already have mine. thanks

one freaken beautiful cage.

I haven't read his thread and I am sure he is a great tuner but so far his head is bigger than i can handle. As you can already tell i'm not great at building engine. I am better at body work. I'll try to post some of the projects i'm working on that is related to body work. If you asked me a question about body work no matter how stupid it is. I would give you an answer. not everyone have the ability even after searching the thread to figure out everything or have the equipments to measure as 1 fast z mentions. that is why we ask questions in the first place.

You see, instead of taking it to my machine shop and spend $500 for his service. I'm going to attempt to do it at home with my drill press and sanding disk to surface the block. I'm not even sure how the hell i'm going to sonic test the block or hot tank the thing. Maybe put it in my shower tub and do it like what my white trailer trash forefather. That is why i'm on here asking bunch of you pro stupid questions. I would appreciated if someone other than fat head 1 fast z enlighten me if what i have on hand is a decent combo or should i start over. yes, i can take it all down to my machine shop but if it's not a good combo I would be wasting his time. I know some of you guys head is quite large with knowledge so share a little. If you are only going to contribute to this thread with smart ass remarks then I would appreciated you keep it to yourself.

NA with SU carbs.

I got this set of pistons with a stroker crank. the rings is Ka24de 89mm, the pistons identification is 11-755t STD. search high and low on the net but could not pinpoint the correct dish for the piston. I suspect the pistons is also ka24de. could anyone enlighten me the dish of pistons? I also have a 240z engine that maybe got 200 miles since rebuilt sitting in the car which I am planning to removed for the rods. It also has the e31 head. If i was to use the stroker crank, 240z rods, the ka24de pistons i purchased with the crank and the e31 head. what compression ratio would it come out to? or should i just get rid of the piston and head and start over with a -2.8 dish piston and a n42 or p90 heads? it will be mostly use for street and occasion track.

do you know what been done with the head or what other work need to be perform to finish the head? thanks

i'm building a stroker and already got a f54 block for it. I'm only looking for the head. at the moment i am weighing my options with some of the z enthusiasts that is offering their n42 heads.

anyone got one for sale in so cal? thanks,dean

I will buy another HF HVLP gravity feed gun just to see if mine is bad. my HF spray pattern is so bad I am hesitate to spray primer with.

I am not sure if it's a better setup to use the HVLP guns but if i remember it correctly when the EPA rule change, you had to use the HVLP guns for automotive paints. From what I recalled when that rule came out, everyone hated the idea but we all had to adapt to it. I believe that the paints is formulated to be painted with HVLP guns, or at lease the paint to reducer to hardner ratio. as to which one lay down a better paint, that has to do with the painter and the gun he is using. And to use today paints, I think you have to mix it differently to use it with the regular gun.

sata is the gold standard for auto body shop painters. never used one before but from the feedback I get from painters they are the guns to use if you are willing to pay the price. I personally have 3 binks for various applications and those guns are top notch. Also have a sharpe, my first gun a purchased when i was doing auto body 20 years ago while in highschool. I still use it today and the paint consistensy is great. I have a harbor freight for primer and neighborhood loaner. I would advise to stay away from harbor freight unless you like color sanding. the spray pattern is not uniform. at lease the gun i own is not. you get what you pay for.