homerneedspeed

no fuel pressure was the culprit. the previous owner installed the fuel pump pick up on the drain plug at the bottom of the tank, when we drove it the rust from the tank slowly clogged the filter before the pump rendering it useless.

when i unplugged the maf it did not start at all.

ok, i've got an update. we replaced the maf and tps, neither helped. it is getting fuel pressure, allt eh ignition is new and functioning. the car is now rinning for a few seconds at 1500 rpm then stumbling to it's death.

i have a problem with a lt1, it will start and die after a few seconds of running. we drove it to the gas station and it ran fine but died and will not start after filling up, the car is full of gas, the fuel pump is running, all electrical connectors are connected, fuses are good and it has electricity, it just won't run for more than a few seconds. it's raining and dark so i'm looking for common problems or advice from people that have had similar situations.

if you nee any info i have a friend that works at taylor race engineering and i live 7 miles away.

if ti has dog rings don't plan on driving it on the street and plan on having out of the car every 1500 miles or so to replace the cracked dog rings which are about 150-300 a piece. if ti is for a race car then the only hassle would be replacing the dog rings, with rally cars you do this at every rally or two but it is part of the maintnence.

don't forget to take out the spark plugs and pour a little bit of oil down the cylinders periodically to reduce cylinder wall scuffing and prime the oil pump when you turn the crank, and keep it as dry as possible, you don't want any rust anywhere inside the engine.

I only use aluminum transmission pans and valve covers because they are cast or fabricated of thick material making them hard to bend and they seal very well. I have found that with steel pans and covers they will almost always deflect no matter what gaskets or torque you use even if you use load spreaders. I use sillicone gaskets with metal shims to keep from "pinching out" the gasket and always use manufacturers torque specs.

no were not from arlington, i'm reparing the car and were from allen (north dallas) right now it's being prepped for paint and having some minor issues taken care of before my friend returns home. i have a few engine swaps under my belt including a previous sbc 280z, and a bunch of race car fabrication so its in good hands and i will try to post pics of the progress.

what swap kit and trans are you using? i have a driveshaft for a th350, jtr swap with r200 companion flange i'd let go for 125 obo. it has 1000 miles on it and never vibrated, it's a brand new shaft with all new parts i bought for 250 a year ago.

what is the bumpsteer like on the wrx rack?