RebekahsZ
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Posts posted by RebekahsZ
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A wealthy douche at that! Anyone who complains is only jealous of your accomplishments.
When we sell my wife's minivan in 3 years, I will start searching for a low-mileage, garage-kept Trailblazer SS to do the towing. And maybe I will build a custom light weight open trailer-I'm towing around a 2500# load on a trailer rated for 7500#.
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I haven't seen much traffic about wheel fitmemt in a while. Perhaps the tuner/low rider crowd has moved on to somewhere else. We are starting to get some faster S30 owners again. Looks like the V8 S30 FB page has slowed down a little too. Maybe this stuff goes in cycles. Rebekah hasn't update her FB page in months, but then again she is 23 now and has a job...she went and grew up on me.
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Do any of you really understand how the flat spoilers work that the Mustang crowd uses? Just looks to me like the make the air think the car is longer... can't find any thoughtful discussions (on line) regarding how they supposedly work.
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You are speaking my language! All the Way!
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Beautiful car!
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Post close-up cell phone photos if you get the chance.
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Post close-up cell phone photos if you get the chance.
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Zspeed22-
How did you mount your alternator?
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What is your 5th gear ratio?
Did you index the bellhousing to your crank with a dial indicator? My LS bellhousing from QT was off by a lot and I had to use indexing dowls to get it straight.
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Just amazing!
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On my to-do list too. Post pics of any fender liners you come across.
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Still waiting for roll cage guy. He says 2 more weeks. For the third time. I obviously think his work is worth waiting for. I'm gonna try to come, even if I'm in the minivan.
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Still lots of vacuum and turbulence behind car. Enough to wrap my chute tether around the chute mount and cut it on deployment. Another obstacle to overcome. The photo that shows whole car is how tether hangs at rest; other photos show how it gathers up behind the car at speed. Chute launches fine, but I need to make a guide of some kind to make the tether stay organized at speed. Will pull out some Screamin' Eagle concepts from Ft. Campbell and some 1/4" cotton webbing-lol. Inside joke for the veterans.
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The distribution block should have no effect on proportioning. But the factory proportioning valve will. You can either eliminate it or take it apart and drill the guts out of it so it acts as a simple t-fitting. I would make a new line that goes between the distribution block or the drilled-out stock proportion valve and run it thru a hole in the firewall down the trans tunnel. Put the prop valve in reach on the tunnel then continue back through the rear bulkhead to the rear t-fitting. Put a little sign on the dash to remind you which way to turn it. I use my prop valve a fair amount. If running skinnies up front and slicks in back, I run full rear bias. If on a roadcourse I adjust as needed based on tire heating (IIRC I start with rear bias but move it forward as the tires and brakes warm up). For street driving I leave it alone and try to avoid traffic accidents and drive slow. The sign on the dash is important because you are running pretty much at 10/10 if you are going hard enough for bias to really matter and you need to keep your eyes on the road and don't want to turn it the which direction (the knob or the car). If mostly a track car, I might like the lever-style prop valve better than the knob type. It can be easier to deal with a click of adjustment rather than trying to tune a knob and drive at the same time.
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They will look pretty small within the wheel opening unless the car is extremely lowered. Some sidewall is not a bad thing.
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Not exactly at a hybridz price point.
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I'm still here, every day. I get a PM every once in a while, but I'm not posting much. My car has become more Summit Racing and less Datsun over the years, and I seem to have more in common with the drag racing and landspeed community than with the Datsun crowd. At the last Datsun show I attended it was obvious that nobody cared about the fastest Datsun present. I also turned 50 this year and I've become less impressed with myself and my own opinions. I sure miss John Coffey-how I would love to be able to ask him a stupid suspension setup question just to piss him off! And so sad I never made it to Huntington to meet him. But I'm still here, slowly but steadily trying to join the 200mph club at a sanctioned event in a Datsun.
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For class rules with ECTA, I may have to run without flares (which means my tires will be hanging out in the breeze a couple of inches). You can cut rear quarters for tire clearance but you can't add flares (even though ZG flares likely hurt aero). So I'm not gonna spend time there. I'm not gonna spend more time on aero until I go to forced induction. I've seen some ugly dirty bricks go really fast when enough hp is applied to the ground. If I get into the 190s and can't break thru, I will try to slick up more. Unless she gets squirrelly again.
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Never had that happen due to heat alone. Might want to check your vent line and fuel filters. I have had a rollover valve get stuck in my vent line-pulled such a vacuum on my tank I couldn't get the fill cap off until I cut the vent line. It was one of those hot days at the track. But the car was still running like a raped ape!
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Tall Retrospec spoiler steadied the car. I'm now ready to go faster. No loss of top speed. Consistently 170mph with an out-lier of 173. Car ran that regardless of the spoiler I installed, including no spoiler. But with no spoiler or the short factory style the car was scary.
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Thank you-I will look into this option.
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From the rules, it looks like they favor R7s for 200 and up. Gotta check to see if they will allow a NASCAR tire, which is 28X10X15, which would make me very happy, and would certainly be a tire that is up to the task. Now to chase down an email for a Texas Mile safety steward.
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I really don't care what width it is. The tire rules for this club are on their website but I haven't studied them enough. But I do know that they will allow the R6/R7 Hoosiers to an unlimited mph. That's why I am leaning that direction. I may have other options. I'd go a 15" tire if I can figure out a "speed rated" option that will pass tech. But, for me to make my gearing work out, I need that 28" total diameter. From the lack of responses to my 19" query, it looks like I'm gonna have to look at other options, or custom wheels of some kind.
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The Texas Mile and Arkansas Mile associations don't like my 28" diameter drag radials. So, I gotta find a wheel to fit a 28" diameter Hoosier R7, which it looks like requires a 19" rim. Anybody have a source for 19" wheels that will fit our S30s? Not terrible worried about how they look.
Rust free datsun 1978 280z worth?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Buy it. One of my buddies went crazy on an emotional purchase and paid $14k for a car that isn't as nice as the one you posted.