RebekahsZ
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Posts posted by RebekahsZ
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Change pads. Drive the shit out of it.
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Went to AR Mile today just to watch. Great track, very well run event. May have to figure out how to fit 28" tall R7s on my car or 2018.
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Speedwaymotors.com has some coil springs in their garage sale section for $24.99. Might be a good chance to buy that spring rate that you always wanted to try out. This only applies to folks who have coilovers.
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I'm keeping an eye out for a 99-2002 T56 from a camaro, TransAm or firebird. If you get burned out in your LS swap and are looking for a buyer of your tranny, I'm slowly trolling for parts. I have a GTO T56 which has better internals than the F-body version, but I need the 0.74 5th gear that the F-body trans has as opposed to the 0.84 that the GTO has. So, I'd be willing to do a trade too. Also keeping an eye out for an F-body or C6 oil pan kit. Text me at 256-366-4685 if you wanna sell/trade.
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ZAttack was kind of a bust last month due to rain and hail. They moved the show into a parking deck, which was good, but participation was really down. Got to hang out with EasTNZ, but Smyrna388Z was a no-show. It rained like hell all weekend and the tow back and forth was pretty sketchy with cars in the ditch all along the highway. Still in line for rollcage work. Stopped by "the man" and he said I might get into his shop in the next couple weeks. Hopeful, but understanding-he's started building turn-key drag cars for folks and has been getting bogged down in the details like any of us can. Driving the minivan to the Arkansas Mile next weekend in Blytheville, AR. I think a Ford GT went 278 there last year. Hoping to put some time in on the S-10 this weekend-had some Lully noise last time I drove it.
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Others will know more, as I have never done any tuning myself. But, as I understand it, the Diablosort will allow you to store a number of "tunes". So, if you are going on a long road trip, you can install your "best gas mileage" tune, if going drag racing, you can install your "max power" tune etc. But, I don't think you really use the Diablosport for the actual tuning-it's a storage and transfer device-like a thumb drive for your laptop to install a new exec file. You need to go see a tuner for what you want. There are guys who do that service using a dyno and there are guys who do it just driving down the street. Those with a dyno can show you the actual output of what was done, but those guys have a lotta money invested in their shops, do they are gonna be more expensive.
I don't have a Diablosport. My LS swapped Z actually made more peak hp with a tune from a tuner who I just boxed my ECM up and mailed it to him. Later, a local dyno tuner got 2hp less (when compared to the base tune from the mail-off guy), but he found 15 more lbs of torque, both at a lower rpm. He then later for free, modified the ramp up on my drive by wire throttle deal which made the car a lot better on an autocross track. The initial tune with wiring harness mods (which were poorly done) cost me $500. The local tune was $500. You can do much better price-wise nowadays.
My LS swapped truck is my daily driver and tow vehicle. It has a max power tune. I wish it had a gas mileage tune, because it is very smelly at idle and gets poor mileage. But I think the tuner and I didn't have enough of a conversation about what I needed. You need to tell them what you want.
When I build a turbo motor for my car, I don't know if I will need a storage device, like the Diablosport, or multiple computers, because I hope to have 600hp, 700hp and 800hp tunes available for the event. I'm worried about driveline durability and I have a soecific mph goal-I wanna try to achieve that goal it with the least hp possible, and at higher hp levels traction becomes more of an issue. If I can reach 200mph at 600hp, I won't push to 800, but I want 800 available before I leave home.
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Jerry of jnjdragracing taught me to limit axle angles during launch. When drag racing, I raise my rear ride height so that the axle squats toward being straight, instead of beyond straight. I run a stiffer rear spring and shock that stock, and I have installed bumpstops to further stiffen the rear rate on launch. Then I run 11-14# of air in bias ply slicks, so the tires absorb most of the weight transfer and the driveline shock. Drag radials are a quick way to break stuff.
The photos of the brown car show how much the stock suspension gets goofed up during launch. Amazingly, it still hooks up well even with all this camber! But driveline angles become dangerously stressed.
Compare this to my avatar photo-there's still some camber and toe deflection, but not nearly as much.
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I've broken an inner Z31 stub, overheated an inner CV (road course) and twisted 2 slip yokes, one of them completely and dropped it into my driveshaft loop. Not much available (nothing) to upgrade the rear yoke of the driveshaft, except by getting the newest, biggest factory replacement cast steel yoke available. There are a variety of input yokes for the R200 of varying size. I just went thru my pile of R200s til I found the largest one, and found a driveshaft shop that helped me find the corresponding (new) driveshaft yoke to fit it. Then, I found metric "grade 8" bolts to fit it and made sure the shoulder of the bolts crossed the junction between the two yokes to be joined. Then, I used a torque wrench to torque them up. For the slip yoke end, I now use a $200 treated billet yoke. Really sucks, cause in the next couple years I will be upgrading to a T56 Magnum and will need a new slip yoke too!
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www.usedracingtires.com
Jpglobal.com
I've been able to buy single, slightly used A6 and A7 from them for as little as $75 shipped. Tell them what you are doing and ask for the freshest tire they have. Age matters as much as wear.
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John1jz-
1) how much power are you putting down?
2) what tire are you using?
It may be time to look at a solid axle setup.
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John1jz-
1) how much power are you putting down?
2) what tire are you using?
It may be time to look at a solid axle setup.
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Did you snap that on the differential end or the wheel end?
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The coils on the soft end of the spring are usually collapsed "coil bound" at rest. So, you essentially wind up with a short spring with no compression travel. It doesn't take much to bottom out the suspension.
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Avoid progressive springs. You can buy springs really cheaply from speedwaymotors.com. They are cheap enough there to let you play around with the rate and find whatcha like.
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Most studs break from over tightening. Very rarely do they break from the stress of actual driving. Your shop may have over tightened them, then it lost torque as the bolt stretched in failure. I only torque to 75-80#.
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I think you'd have to make something yourself.
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Wheel spacers and longer studs.
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LS7 clutch flywheel and pressure plate (I think your local chevy parts counter can sell you a "LS7 clutch kit" for about $700). It's a good deal. Throw out bearing/slave cylinder kit for LS7, or any LS product. 7/8" Wilwood or Tilton master cylinder. Remote bleeder kit 48" with speed bleeder (got mine from Eastcoast Superchargers). A 36" AN 3 master to slave line. Adapters to junction line at both ends (available at Speedwaymotors.com.). May need different length driveshaft?.
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I didn't do the swap in my truck. And at 137k miles on the tranny, I've lost the synchros in 2d gear. So I'm driving it like a very wide-ratio 4spd. I think you can use the clutch and flywheel from a 4.8L equipped truck, and the master and slave cylinder are from the S10. Do more googling to double check that.
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Buy some bolt in camber plates from DP. (Google DP camber plates). They look like an aluminum buscuit. They include the steering bearing, upper 2.5" spring seat, and a spherical bearing mount inside a mounting plate with 2 bolts (in place of the 3 bolts of the stock insulator). Call DP to discuss how to measure your shock to fit the spherical bearing. Not terribly expensive and work great. This let's you toss the stock insulator. I run them front and back. Springs are springs in my opinion, but get regular springs, not progressive. The rates you suggested sound fine.
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I used that YouTube link last and had my windshield in in no time! Not a single profanity was spoken. Did it all myself with no assistant. Thank you hybridz and YouTube! Wish I had known this technique in 1994 (last time I installed my glass)!
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Nissan North America sponsors ZAttack car show every 3 years at Nissan HQ, which is located beside I-65 in Franklin, TN (just south of Nashville). Travis will have his super clean 66mm turbocharged (truck header) 5.3/TR-6060 R200CV 280z there, I will have my n/a LS2 T56 R200CLSDCV 174mph standing-mile 240z there (with interior gutted and no windshield-weather depending) with custom 8-pt rollbar, and I expect Smyrna388Z to be there with his super clean 383 sbc with NO2 A/T? drag Z with Jegs mail order roll bar. I hope that Adam Hopkins will show up with his 5.3 early 240z that took home all the trophies last ZAttack in its then ratrod-under construction state. There will un-doubtably be more great cars there from the region. I've got a couple other buddies coming with a variety of less molested early S30s. My buddy Dexter will be there if any body needs to make contact with someone who has a horde of original Z cars of any vintage rusting away in the pasture behind his house. We are competing with The Mitty historic races at Road Atlanta for the weekend, but this is a great opportunity to come look at some well Modified S30s if you have been sitting on the fence about doing a conversion to any level. ZAttack is now held on an "Every 3 Years" schedule. I hope to attend the Mitty next year to try to meet Greg Ira, but I've been waiting 3 years since the last ZAttack-its a great show at a great venue. I will bring a jack so that we can do some show and tell about any modification you are considering, from coilovers, AZC brake kits, ZG flares, aftermarket seats, roll bars, difs and axles, V8s, headers, parachutes, spoilers, airdams, splitters, various transmissions, wheels and tires. Hope to see ya there!
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Mike Kelly (MiKelly) ran un-sectioned struts on his car. I think he achieved all his lowering via camber plates. Ya might try to track him down for advice. T3 seems to make a good quality, affordable bolt in camber plate system. You can probably lower the car 3" with camber plates alone. But I repeat-stay away from progressive springs. My springs are from Speedwaymotors.com and they work great. Cheap too.
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Your autocross video is awesome! Looks like a great club. I used to belong to a laid-back club, but the club closest to me is super type-A and it takes a lotta the fun out of it. Car looks great. And sounds even better!
Bump steer fix, spaced versus new hole relationship
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted · Edited by RebekahsZ
Is the spacer causing wheel clearance issues? If not, there are 2 ways to install an adjustable bumpsteer kit onto a Z. 1), reem the steering knuckle to fit a pinto tie rod and use a pinto bumpsteer kit from the round track guys, or 2) get a bumpsteer kit from Arizona Z Car, which has the correct taper for a Datsun tierod. Dave has just come out with them and they do not appear on his dated online catalog. Several companies make the 1"-ish spacer that goes between the strut and the knuckle. I'm surprised moving the rack up isnt giving you harmonic balancer clearance trouble. Insofar as slotting of the crossmember to raise the inner lower control arm points-I found that this enhanced my bumpsteer, and returned my inner LCA pickup points to the stock location. The guy above 74.... is most knowledgeable about rack relocation, and may also have a Mustang rack. JMortensen may have raised his rack too and he is running an LS motor like you and I do. 74... has a lot of autocross track time too; both guys have really worked hard on their setups.