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Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. First up I needed to revise the front end. The car was originally designed with a V8 in mind and had a cross member designed to hold one. I know that I will be eventually running a L6, so after a lot of thought, I decided to run the standard Z car cross-member. This would save some time and I knew with a little modification it could be used for most of the things I want to do. It also allowed me to set the standard Z car front suspension pickup points without too much trouble. But it was still not easy. I had to also relocate the 2x2 square tubing to mimic the Z car frame rails. So esse
  2. I finally found the picture of me hauling the shell home after purchase. This picture was dated 3/30/13. I guess it sat around in the corner of the shop for a little longer than I thought! Anyway judging by the dates on my pictures, I worked a little bit on it in 2014, and quite a bit in 2015 just before we bought the other car. Then it sat mostly until 2017 when I put it in the rotisserie. But between racing and keeping up the other car, I didn't really get back into it until 2019.
  3. Sounds like I must know you from somewhere. I was good friends with Mike. I live in Thornton Park, but my garage is at a private residence in Oviedo. I haven't been on track since before Covid, so I am getting very itchy. Yea, time and money. I either have one of the other, never both. I hope to do some vintage racing later in the year.
  4. I believe IMSA went to tube frame in 82 or 83. SVRA rules allow standard tub with tube frame extensions in GTU class which covers FIA rules through 84. Wheelbase must remain the same. I am also trying to keep the car legal for SCCA GT3 class at least with minor modifications. It is a huge project, but luckily I am already a good 2 years into it. I wanted to organize and document it so starting this thread will force me to review all the photos, organize them, and hide the stuff I had to rebuild 3 times. More importantly I wanted to show some of the special stuff I did to make
  5. I have meaning to start up this thread for long time. In the past 10+ years I have learned quite a bit about building and racing early Z cars. So I decided to take all my knowledge and build the "ultimate" racing Z. But of course that is a relative term. More precisely, an early Z that is built loosely to the IMSA GTU rules of 1978 and legal for vintage racing. This actually allows quite a bit of modification, so my attempt is to apply lessons learned from 40 years of racing into a car than can compete with muscle cars from the late 60's. Both HSR and SVRA group the GTU cars in with typ
  6. More common in drag racing but a good safety measure IF the engine is moved back so far that the flywheel is in line with your feet on the pedals. I've never seen that mod before and not sure you can move it back that far.
  7. I could be wrong, and would need to check the math, but I think all that matters is center of the wheel contact patch in relation to the ball joint for wheel rate, scrub, etc. The spacer really doesn't know it is not part of the wheel. Adding spacers does create some crazy stresses around those studs, would not want one to loosen up. I would use ARP fasteners if possible and locktite the inner hub set. I'm waiting on someone to poo poo on this but it seems quite feasible to me. Miatas have multiple 15x8 wheels in 12-13 lb range. Add a 3lb spacer and you still have a decent package
  8. Most of the Miata wheels I have looked at are +25 offset, 15x8/9/10. Konig Dekagram good example. Adaptitusa.com has the spacers in 1.5" which would allow a 15x8 no problem. Maybe a 9? I've seen racers run some damn wide spacers under their wheels to get more track width so I don't see this as being that much different. Probably does add 2 or 3 lbs to the weight.
  9. Anyone consider running Miata wheels with an an adapter plate? Seems like it would work.
  10. It seems most wheels and virtually all single piece cast wheels, including all OEM's, Ford, Chevy, Mercedes, BMW, etc. source their wheels from China. But when BMW sells you a wheel, the design has been analyzed, materials specified, raw materials and forgings tested, traceability certs provided, and onsite quality is verified. So it's not really a question of where they were made, but how they were made and who is going to stand behind them.
  11. I messaged them, they responded in a few hours. They are made in China.
  12. Definitely an interesting selection of sizes and offsets. Their company description is super cheesy: "Rivet Nuts on a Polished Lip is our style.". They are not flow formed like the Konig's but It says they are JWL rated which should make them ok for street use, but you never know. Personally I don't care where they are made as long as they use correct alloys. I searched around but not much chatter about these. Usually with a lightweight wheel like this the Miata and endurance racing guys will snap them up. It seems this is a relatively new company, so I guess it depends if they want to se
  13. The only place I have ever had issues with heat is in the gas pedal area. In think I burned some shoes one time. I just add roughly a 10 x 24 strip starting where the tunnel narrows down. Usually does the trick. I have burned my hands on the shifter before, but since I always have gloves on I never worried about it.
  14. Good question. Especially since my tunnel is 40 thow aluminum sheet. Years ago I bought some insulation off Ebay that was aluminum on 1 side and roughly 1/4 thick adhesive foam on the other. I used it in 2 cars and it worked well, was cheap, and stuck permanently. Even let pipes ride on it. Now I am trying to find more of it. The DEI stuff works well but is expensive and there are others. I intend to handle the heat with panel insulation, but will add pipe insulation if I need more. The ex ITS car I race now had the entire driver area covered in some kind of insulation mat before
  15. Those look nice. I looked at something very similar with the brackets flipped to raise the pivot points. What size are those inner rod ends?
  16. No big ass bolts. I always wanted to center drill those things to lighten anyway. Yes the cradle is there to prevent fore and aft movement. It's kind of light, I could beef that up a little. Oh this car will be plenty low. I notched the cross bar above the diff to raise it up higher. The exhaust loops over the tranny, down the tunnel on passenger side, then cuts across for a side exit in the rocker panel below the passenger door handle. I'm starting to gather my photos to start a build thread when I realized I didnt have any of the rear suspension work.
  17. Here are a few pics of my redesign of the pick up points on the rear control arms. I thought about this for such a long time before going this direction. This car I am building is going to be dropped a large amount and I really wanted to bring the roll centers back up and also make them adjustable if possible My design goals were to use the modified control arms I built a few years ago and avoid adding any additional weight. Less weight even better. Of course one possibility would be to add a tube to the bottom of the rear upright, but I didn't like adding unsprung weight and no way to ma
  18. I think this is the first time I went through your entire thread. And I have to say you have done it right. I am more into road race now, but if I were building an FP car today I would follow a similar path. Personally I believe lowering both sprung and unsprung weight is the key. I really like your brake and wheel setup. The only disadvantage you have is not using an early 240 shell to start with. But you have almost compensated for that. I am familiar with the John Thomas car and really his only advantage is the weight, a strong Rebello engine, and most of all, his extraterrestrial driving.
  19. The standard for 30+years is the electromotive stand alone. I believe the megajolt is similar but open source and there are some others out there for use with carbs. All the EFI systems have multiple ignition solutions built in.
  20. You will need to install dedicated sensors and hardware to read them. Like an Innovate or simiar.
  21. Yes, I was looking at this and not a lot of shocks fit into the required form factor. Pretty much needs to fit inside 2" DOM tubing with 0.188 wall which has 1.624 ID. Over 2" OD and you lose ability to run 2-1/2 springs. Kind of rules out most adjustable shocks. Are the 36 Bilstein racer rebuildable? I know their 46 have an abundance of valves, shims. and tools available and plenty of instruction on how to do it yourself.
  22. I know we are getting off the original topic, but I have another crazy idea. I was reading some old posts and saw one by JohnC that described converting a monotube shock to an inverted strut. So I started thinking about this. I don't see why you could not replace the strut tube with something of appropriate diameter and use some Delrin for the shock body to slide against. Sounds easy but of course alignment and tolerances would be critical and possibly some polishing. You could probably even add a seal to keep the bearings clean. I googled around and could not find any references to doin
  23. I always keep a few shims in the tool box to correct brake run out. It has always worked for me, but I use the stock hubs also.
  24. I still enjoy bench racing on this forum also. So many things have been covered but technology changes with time and there is a real hardcore group here. I have a bunch of FB pages I comment on but it is just not the same as this forum.
  25. Very true, but when I said very very fast I meant it. AutoX and Runoffs National Champions. I don't think Greg Ira will mind I dropped his name here. That is hard to argue against. And at roughly $400 each, they are a bargain. On the other hand, I know Greg's program well, and I don't think shocks are a big contributer to his many podiums. I don't know anyone racing the 8610 single adjustable. There were some posts on here a few years ago on the valving, but even that is probably outdated.
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