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Everything posted by clarkspeed

  1. I still enjoy bench racing on this forum also. So many things have been covered but technology changes with time and there is a real hardcore group here. I have a bunch of FB pages I comment on but it is just not the same as this forum.
  2. Very true, but when I said very very fast I meant it. AutoX and Runoffs National Champions. I don't think Greg Ira will mind I dropped his name here. That is hard to argue against. And at roughly $400 each, they are a bargain. On the other hand, I know Greg's program well, and I don't think shocks are a big contributer to his many podiums. I don't know anyone racing the 8610 single adjustable. There were some posts on here a few years ago on the valving, but even that is probably outdated.
  3. For what it worth, I happen to know some very very fast Z cars run the plain old 8611 Koni double adjustable. And they dont have any problems with premature failure. I think the lower settings fall right into the window you are looking for. The adjustment steps are kind of coarse, but at some point you are splitting hairs.
  4. After Cary brought this up, I was thinking about the same thing. Really the only problem is having enough room and solid mounting for the shock. I don't see any reason you could not hook it to the sway bar mount preferrably in line with the end link. Yes you would need a solid end link, but 1/2 would probably work, hopefully not a 5/8, but I would need to think about the forces involved. I don't think shock travel has any influence. When selecting shocks, you can see there are a lot of travel lengths available. The shorter shock usually has shorter travel so it kind of works out. So if y
  5. This is also what I was told in a suspension setup class from a few years ago. The correct thing to do in the rain is change spring rates and roll bar rates to increase grip. But depending on the situation, that is usually not practical. So most go for a shock adjustment because it is better than nothing.
  6. I have thought about doing this also. Do you have any pictures of this type of setup?
  7. I ended with the same full circle you did about 4 years ago. I was, and I guess still convinced a race shock that is rebuild able by the user would be the best low cost option. I'm sure with a few trials I could get real close to the optimum damping. But paying $450 a rebuild adds up quickly when you just want to experiment. That low speed damping is just so critical for driver feel and different drivers like different feels. For me it is most detectable under braking, I go to full brakes fast and hard. It is like a timer, as you provide input through steering wheel or brakes, the harder
  8. Yes, I got the jacking thing backwards. Too much rebound causes it and that is not your problem. I went back and looked at some of my shock tuning info and your setup with 100/100 was not a bad idea at all. That should feel very responsive in transitions which would be beneficial for AutoX. I think the devil is in the details for shocks though. The shock dyno shows what is happening, but without adjustments, how do you know more or less will help or hurt? I did think the Bilsteins could be tuned anyway you want. I just assumed they use the same valves as all their other race shocks which
  9. OK then. Yes a school that puts the coach in the passenger seat or even better, let a national champ drive your car with you riding. I friend of mine who was a very respected driver let John Thomas drive his car one time and was blown away at the techniques he used. The one area where sim racing = real racing is thinking out of the box. That is what separates the good drivers from the mediocre. Being able to try something new and learn from it immediately. Guys like me are doing that to gain seconds, the pros do it to gain tenths. And no substitute for more seat time. Anyway, from my rac
  10. Just switch to flat top pistons to up your CR.
  11. You are mostly autox'n correct? That is a special category. If HPDE or time trials let me know, it will be a different answer. First of all, for a beginner, DA is easiest applied to driver analysis. Next concern is analyzing a 60s run you can only look for major issues or make a comparison between run 1 and run 2. If you tried a slalom 2 different ways, you could definitely determine the best choice, but analyzing a single run is doubtful you would see something you dont already know. I am interested in your online coaching statement. I assume you are racing online. I also run iR
  12. I only use those things to answer the question "what's going on under there"? I run a full data acquisition system and add forward and rear facing cameras when in a race. I got real heavy in the data side of things a few years ago and now do analysis for others too. If you want to dip your toes in data, the phone apps are getting pretty good. Also the Aim Solo. And I think some of the new action cameras collect data.
  13. For quick down and dirty videos I have a couple of rechargeable cameras that record to microSD like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nanny-Cam-Video-Camera-Tiny-Small-Pinhole-DVR-Digital-Spy-Hidden-Secret-Wireless-/381414328453?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 I bought them used a few years ago, but I see you can order from China for 12.95. They record a good 45 minutes or more and are easy to ty-wrap in unusual locations (no jokes please). You have to manual turn on, but they are pretty durable in a metal case even though I don't care if they got destroyed. I've mounted t
  14. A GoPro or similar mounted underneath can give a wealth of info of what is going on. I bought a couple of tiny 720p cameras for 20/ea and ty-wrap those things everywhere. I lay video snap shots in PowerPoint and estimate max distance traveled for each component. Poor man's data acquisition!
  15. Makes perfect sense to me. I will incorporate in future builds!
  16. Kind of off topic, but here is a picture of the adjustment I added to a stock arm. Pretty simple and it was just bolted on to the roll bar and a clevis was bolted to the control arm. It worked perfectly.
  17. Comparing the control arm angles and tie rod is the starting point. Actually measuring bump steer is the logical next step. I'm not sure what ends you have on the Woodward rack, but perhaps you could also add an adjustment there? You can do the larger spacers (2"?) at the steering knuckle, but you might end up having interference with the tire/wheel. Keep an eye on that. If you are using a 5/8 bolt or tapered bolt at the knuckle, it should be plenty strong enough.
  18. Most road racers run the R180 with some type of limited slip. I run a R200 only because I have a couple of Quaife LSD's made for them. You could probably even get away with a R160 for sprint races. CV's are debatable. Consensus is they have less drag. But for durability I have seen as many S30 CV's fail (road racing) as u-joints. For best reliability of either, best to have the angles as level as possible. I have seen Z drag racers with drag slicks and 600+ HP run fine with some spicer u-joints. They just made sure the squat on green light made the axles horizontal. But a CV will defin
  19. John, I anticipated you had already considered everything on my list. Your car has more planning and engineering in it than I could imagine. I just thought I would list some of the lessons I have learned. I did make a mistake above, I didn't run a rear bar with the stock front bar. Writing about jogged my memory. That is how I ended up with a stock front bar. I was running your standard front and rear aftermarket bars that I had made adjustable. It was a perfectly balanced setup, but I wanted to drop the rear bar to get the power down better and save weight. After doing the math, I found I d
  20. That is a lot to digest, but I think I follow your journey. Some things I have run across in my current and previous designs: 1. Weight is a concern. If you end up with a setup considerably heavier than a couple Suspension Technique bars and bolt style end links, you are going in wrong direction. 2. I usually target around 1 degree of body roll at max lateral G. So if I run relatively stiffer springs, then sway bar rate can be reduced. I once set a car up with 400 lb springs, a stock front sway bar, and a ST bar in the rear. Both made adjustable (so the front was actually stiffer th
  21. Some of the main differences from EP to other racing classes is 15x7 wheels with slicks, full fiberglass fenders, hood, and hatch to meet min weights, along with engine mods. If really going for it, I would recommend a turn key engine build from a race shop that specializes in this formula. A 240 also fits into ITS class with much less modification. Vintage cars are typically built to 1972 SCCA production rules. Some organizations are tight on rules, others not so much. Either way, they will still group the car to race. Check out SVRA website for some 240Z rules. I you want to give
  22. 22 rod ends are not going to be light either. I can't help but to guess that F/R conversion will add more weight than any performance gains.
  23. Not sure why you want to reinforce the pedal box? The firewall can flex some, but the box is pretty solid. Installing dual MCs is a different topic all together. I don't think dual MCs are really necessary for the street, but if you really want them, the easy/cheap way is to modify the existing pedal box. You need to remove the box and cut access holes for the balance bar. Weld a bushing in the brake pedal arm, and weld a laser cut plate to the firewall with the 2 mounting holes or make the plate yourself. Easier I think than trying to fab up mounting a pedal set in an area that is difficult
  24. If your first race car, does that mean new to racing also? Been to school yet? Then having a reliable car and getting as much seat time as possible is very important. EP is a very fast class and most have serious built cars in my region. Not necessarily the best class to start with but not impossible. I am mostly into vintage racing but have done some engineering for the EP guys.
  25. Now that is some brake cooling! I think most switch to rear disk for convience. No adjustments, easy to change, pads cheaper than shoes. Both will stop equally. When racing stock brakes and running 20 minute spint races, I never had much issue as long as I changed pads frequently and didn't try to stretch out the life. It doesn't take much wear on the front pads before they lose all temp control. MaybeI Improved cooling like in the pic would help. I never ran cooling to the drums, but always did use finned aluminum. Oh, and most racers I know just use plain old cheap $40 solid rot
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