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clarkspeed last won the day on September 24 2016

clarkspeed had the most liked content!

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About clarkspeed

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  • Birthday 04/22/1965

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    Downtown Orlando Florida
  • Interests
    Building and racing cars. Anything automotive. Guitars. Local music played in local clubs.

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  1. Some of the main differences from EP to other racing classes is 15x7 wheels with slicks, full fiberglass fenders, hood, and hatch to meet min weights, along with engine mods. If really going for it, I would recommend a turn key engine build from a race shop that specializes in this formula. A 240 also fits into ITS class with much less modification. Vintage cars are typically built to 1972 SCCA production rules. Some organizations are tight on rules, others not so much. Either way, they will still group the car to race. Check out SVRA website for some 240Z rules. I you want to give racing a shot, I suggest doing a SCCA school with a rented car or one of the other national schools that provide the car. I specialize in restoring and building old race cars for the vintage circuits. If you give up on your project, I might be interested.😀
  2. 22 rod ends are not going to be light either. I can't help but to guess that F/R conversion will add more weight than any performance gains.
  3. Not sure why you want to reinforce the pedal box? The firewall can flex some, but the box is pretty solid. Installing dual MCs is a different topic all together. I don't think dual MCs are really necessary for the street, but if you really want them, the easy/cheap way is to modify the existing pedal box. You need to remove the box and cut access holes for the balance bar. Weld a bushing in the brake pedal arm, and weld a laser cut plate to the firewall with the 2 mounting holes or make the plate yourself. Easier I think than trying to fab up mounting a pedal set in an area that is difficult to access. But it has been done many times.
  4. If your first race car, does that mean new to racing also? Been to school yet? Then having a reliable car and getting as much seat time as possible is very important. EP is a very fast class and most have serious built cars in my region. Not necessarily the best class to start with but not impossible. I am mostly into vintage racing but have done some engineering for the EP guys.
  5. Now that is some brake cooling! I think most switch to rear disk for convience. No adjustments, easy to change, pads cheaper than shoes. Both will stop equally. When racing stock brakes and running 20 minute spint races, I never had much issue as long as I changed pads frequently and didn't try to stretch out the life. It doesn't take much wear on the front pads before they lose all temp control. MaybeI Improved cooling like in the pic would help. I never ran cooling to the drums, but always did use finned aluminum. Oh, and most racers I know just use plain old cheap $40 solid rotors up front. Cheap to change out when they get a little wear.
  6. Sounds like you are on the right track. I would say most successful EP 2.4L engines are built for 8k or better. They replace rods with Carillo or Pauter. Forged pistons. Nismo bearings. Deep oil pan with windage or throw in a dry sump. All kind of standard stuff, done to lower risk, if not preventing failure. Why are you running 91 octane? EP max is 12:1 compression. You need all of that.
  7. Brake pads are very sensitive to the designed temperature range. And the temperature your brakes generate is dependent on many things obviously, but rotor/caliper combination is the hardest to predict. For AutoX I have seen some guys running some really lightweight stuff to reduce unsprung weight. I will assume they run a higher temp pad for this. But still you need something that develops close to max friction when cold. For track, cold temps are not an issue after 1\2 a lap. But finding the right temp match to pad is not easy if you are running aftermarket or custom setups. I recommend using a temp paint on the rotor to see where you are at and then choosing a pad compound to match. Then you can play with different suppliers to fine tune over time, but it shouldn't affect your times drastically.
  8. Finally someone offers a decent brake upgrade kit without enormously too large rotors. Maybe others will follow.
  9. Yes, the extra capacity helps, but really need trap doors to prevent pressure loss. Or run an accusump.
  10. I love facebook also. I am a member vintage racing Z's, datsun classifieds, vintage imsa racing, race parts for sale in southeast, and maybe the most impressive is homebuilt cars from scratch. Its mindblowing and puts every build show on TV to shame. And I am only mentioning a few along with maintaining my own garage page. These communities are great, but no substitute for a good build thread or detailed model specific explanation or sticky you can find in a forum. Hell I put "forum" as a search term for every question I google about any vehicle. Hybridz really is a nitch group with limited audience. I am sure all the stuff better served by other platforms has all moved by this point. But I really hope that this group continues smaller but stronger.
  11. This site is still pretty amazing. It is hard to believe how many generic auto terms I Google and HybridZ pops up in the search. And as far as dead, I think there are too many other distractions now so volume is understandably lower. HybridZ is the last place I would go for chatting, looking at pretty pictures, and meeting other Z people, but for hardcore tech questions, HybridZ still seems to be the best solution. Due to the lower volumes, responses take longer, but you can still message an expert if needed. As far as the community, look back at old posts and many of the "newbies" now have 10-15 years experience with this platform. Personally I have been building and racing these cars for 13 years now and I know a hell-of-lot more. For the most part, I solve my own problems now. But I still visit periodically and don't respond to threads that already have multiple correct answers or have detailed search results available. So what is the future of this forum? Technology is always advancing, venders come and go, parts become obsolete and then available again, and what was once an expensive solution can be applied for a fraction of the cost. And no matter what you have seen before, someone will innovate and set a new standard.
  12. And I think 1 tire always locks up before the other one. But it should only be slight difference and not cause bad issues like changing lanes or something. I have never driven a car where both front tires lock at exactly the same time. I think corner weighting mostly balances L/R transitional and steady state cornering.
  13. True. But car weight distribution is not always an easy thing to correct. We are kind of lucky with the S30 chassis that it is close to 50/50 F/R. But getting 50/50 L/R is not quite as easy. Anyway, I always start with front ride height even where I want to get my desired roll center and clearance. Then rear even although slightly higher. I then try to get the cross weights correct by adjusting the rear, and only tweak the front if needed. I dont know if this is right, but it always results in a tame handling car for me. Then at the track you can add/subtract more rake by adjusting the rear equal turns. I do this to balance aero issues. All adjustments with sway bar off, weight simulated for track, etc, etc.
  14. Try Rick Bowers @ mojo performance over in Merritt Island This would be right up his alley. You should be able to reach him from this forum. He knows Datsuns and turbos and can program just about any EFI.
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