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clarkspeed last won the day on August 16

clarkspeed had the most liked content!

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About clarkspeed

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  • Birthday 04/22/1965

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  • Location
    Downtown Orlando Florida
  • Interests
    Building and racing cars. Anything automotive. Guitars. Local music played in local clubs.

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  1. Yes all Jon said above. I normally use black button head Allen screws with lock nuts and washer under nut. 10-32 I think or 8's I can't remember. Whatever you do don't tighten too much. Just snug.
  2. I just looked for a local plastic and composite retailer. 4x4 will not work, must be 4x8 for the front. Most people that sell that kind of stuff can order any thickness. Start with little oversize on the cut out and slowly work your way down by fitting and sharpie marks. You can trim with a sander, die grinder, or skill saw or all 3. Once you work with it you will want to use the stuff everywhere. Trick with windshield is try to get perfectly smooth transition to metal for least wind resistance.
  3. Yea, weight is a struggle for me as well. It's hard to tell what is added vs. Subtracted on my hack job. My shell with cage weighed 500lb before I started. When I take it off the stand I will weigh again. I can comment on the Lexan. I always do mine myself. I buy 1/8 generic polycarbonate, I think SCCA requires thicker. Cut it to a pattern little oversize of an old windshield makes it little easier. I trim the edges down until the face is just flush with metal. Spray paint a 2" flat black ring around the inside perimeter. My new process is to drill the mount screws and mount with a
  4. The radiator will have a serious slant forward. So it looks like the shroud will not be very large. I thought aluminum but it is still open for now. It has to slot into the opening in the Gnose. I gotta get it off the rotisserie and fit the nose to figure it out. I am more worried about getting engine air and oil cooler air. Each side of the shroud I hope?
  5. The G-nose came with this crazy body kit I bought. It is exactly 4" wider than stock to match the 2" extended fenders. I decided to do the dam in glass to match what everyone was running back in the day. Like the BSR cars and Frisselle. It needed a few curves here and there that I could not get with pure aluminum fab. And if you have ever seen aluminum air dams, they look little getto. Funny that a lot of people did that back in the day too. My overall idea was to incorporate a lexan lower strip on the bottom that I could adjust up or down to achieve the lowest possible clearanc
  6. These are some pics on progress with the air dam. I kept looking at this wide body G-Nose trying to figure out a way to create a mold. Then I realized it is a fairly simple shape and if I took a sheet of thin aluminum I could hand roll it to get the correct contour. And even better, it would be a nice smooth finish to pull the final part without much correction. I ended up using 2 sheets riveted together so there is a small crease in the middle. I am smoothing the crease with body filler and rounding the corners so there is a nice smooth transition when I lay the cloth. As you can see I
  7. I agree, mechanically, most of the parts last an exceptionally long time, even when abused. L6 engine with efi and all other. But it is a really old car now. Electrical things deteriorate over time. Electro-mechanical wear is an issue and unless preserved in a low humidity environment, corrosion at every connection. 98% of the time it is something simple to fix by troubleshooting with FSM, but sometimes, it will be very difficult to diagnose.
  8. I laid out the entire electrical system in PowerPoint and put together a bill of material. I will purchase most from Waytek. I highly recommend. But I had a few surplus spare parts I loaded it with for the photo.
  9. I loaded the switch panel with switches that light whan energized and circuit breakers.
  10. Here are some shots of my test parts. It looks like most of my tolerances are around 0.010". I am starting an upgrade to hopefully bring that in. My goal is at least center drill hole locations within a few thousands. Surface finish can be as good as you want . The pics all all rough cuts without a finishing pass.
  11. Another post. Getting much closer to my current state on the car. These photos show the electrical panel I 3d printed, tabs everywhere to secure wiring, window supports, panel to mount all the electrical components, and a pic of my messy shop.
  12. Tell me about it. For my build I am trying to do all the work ahead of the spend. I only purchase parts that I need to weld around. My goal is to get to a completion state where I only need to final assemble and wire it up. I have this huge list of parts I will pull the trigger on as soon as I sell my other car. Most of that is shocks, wheels, tires, and gauges. But I am trying not to sell it so I can still race until this one is finished. That cross over point is getting closer. I am still not sure what I am going to do with the motor yet, but I have a few options.
  13. Yea, I could see 320 duration as giving some vacuum issues. Then again, take my TPS values, they should get you close. Much of the low RPM, Iow load stuff is just to get it cranked easy. I recently purchased a 14point7 system to tie in with my data logger. I have not used it yet, but it was recommended to me buy a reputable tuner. The Innovate stuff is good too, but as in previous posts, goes back to how much data you want to collect and what do you want to collect it with.
  14. My 2 cents. You will probably learn just as much on the Megasquirt site as any book will give you. It is very extensive. I'm not sure you really need a TPS for ignition, most racers just run RPM (mechanical) advance. But I always liked adding some load advance because it does make things a little smoother on throttle transition and makes it "snappy" at throttle tip in. I would think you generate plenty of vacuum with SU's so a MAP sensor may be better than TPS for load? I don't know. I don't have any vacuum so I must use TPS for load. I run a curve similar to below with my EFI system. Pre
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