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clarkspeed last won the day on May 6

clarkspeed had the most liked content!

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About clarkspeed

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  • Birthday 04/22/1965

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  • Location
    Downtown Orlando Florida
  • Interests
    Building and racing cars. Anything automotive. Guitars. Local music played in local clubs.

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  1. I think Cary is referencing just 3/4 tubing with external bearings. Maybe even a rod end near the steering wheel. I struggled with this decision on the car I am building. In the end I went with the Sweet collapsible column for safety reasons but it is not so light. I am not sure what the rule book says for EP. Yea you can get into a lot of complexity on data/dash systems. If you decide to take the plunge maybe we talk on the phone. Yea dash + data is not so cheap. But it opens up a lot of potential. But the potential means nothing unless you can apply it. I think the cheapest solution is
  2. Now you are getting into some fun stuff! Greg runs races less than 1 hr so something to consider unless you have some big electrical demand. I am going to run a Geo Metro alt on my next engine as a small alternative, but I have not got to the engineering for that yet. AIM has a good product. Think about where you want to be in future state before purchase. I know quite a bit about data acquisition and I am officially Greg's race engineer BTW. Main questions are do you just just want a dash and how much data you you want to analyze? Are you just looking at driver performance or log
  3. Looking good. Man that is a lot of welding. I don't see any holes in the firewall for the brake clutch MC's?
  4. I wish I could tell which was fastest. The S30 Z really likes no bar on the rear. That is how Greg runs but in grippy turns he is always lifting a front wheel. The books will tell you that is traction lost, but you are making it up with sooner throttle..... so it depends. I think my chassis is stiff enough to treat it more like a full tube car. If you run without a rear bar, you just need to reduce the stiffness of the front bar accordingly, regardless of coil spring stiffness.
  5. I try to challenge myself any way I can. I try to race cars with manual shifter as much as possible to practice heel and toe and I wear race boots. Even put myself at a big disadvantage sometimes by running races with no practice. At this point, I only race head to head. Yes it is a crap shoot in iRacing to avoid wreckage, but I find the better I get, the better I am at avoiding. In certain races, you are guaranteed a podium if you can qualify top 10 and stay out of trouble. I don't like driving the GT cars and faster. Too much electronic intervention and in iRacing the higher level you
  6. I really really like the VR. I started with it and a new gaming laptop. I tried to switch to a monitor or giant TV for comfort and could not. I think a giant curved monitor might work, but I am not going to invest in that if the VR works so well. I can look L & R 90+ degrees while racing which is just super cool in an open wheel car. The only real negatives eye sweat and I can't drink beer while racing. But it takes some acclimation, I started with 5 minutes, then 10 min, and so on to keep from getting sick. I have a bad inner ear, but I mastered it. I chose iRacing because t
  7. Only if you build your own rig! Damn near all the pros sim race in some form or another. Besides I have way more geek point topics than this. Better adjust the scale.
  8. More ass end work. I originally bought this 1" light weight hollow sway bar to mount in the front and not run a rear bar. That is normally how I build a Z up with basic unibody. But after thinking about it, I think this partial tube chassis will be rigid enough to go a different direction. So I decided to run slightly lighter springs with stronger sway bars both front and rear. So I moved this bar to the rear and will purchase a heavier bar for the front once I do all the math to calculate what size it will need to be. For the rear I purchased some weldable arm kits from Speedway M
  9. Here are some details of the differential mount. First I raised the stock cross beam to add some room because I think will need some space to raise the differential. Goal here is to keep the axles close parallel to reduce stress. If you can keep them relatively parallel during operation, the stock half shafts along with some good u-joints can handle just about anything a NA L6 can throw at them, therefore saving me some money over a CV conversion. Next I cut some metal out of the dog bone cross link to have better access to the oil change plugs. I added a brace to compensate. Then I used
  10. Wow, not much posted in the Motorsports section for awhile. Anyone else out there sim racing? I built up a rig in winter of 2019 just before the pandemic hit. It was great timing. Anyway I run iRacing software and run in a few different series with different cars to challenge myself. Any way here are some pics of my rig that I built myself. I run Thrustmaster gear with a Samsung VR headset.
  11. Depends on what material you print and where it I used. A good home printer can run carbon-nylon good for up to 500 degree F. Pro shops can print carbon polymers just as good as OEM intakes. And if you have the money, you can print aluminum or more. I saw a pic of a $5000 3d printed inconel exhaust last week.
  12. Thanks for the kind words. It will have a straight shot of air down the tunnel to keep it cool AND I plan to add plenty of insulation to the surrounding panels. Yes this is a common technique used by tube frame GT cars. The car will have a flat bottom and I will try to squish that down as much as possible. I have used oval exhaust tubing in the past, but that didn't seem feasible for this build.
  13. This is the strut tower brace I fabbed. It is made from something like .060 steel square so it is very light. That is why I added so many gussets and triangles. It seems very rigid. It will be hard bolted to towers and roll cage.
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