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clarkspeed

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clarkspeed last won the day on October 23 2021

clarkspeed had the most liked content!

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About clarkspeed

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    Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Downtown Orlando Florida
  • Interests
    Building and racing cars. Anything automotive. Guitars. Local music played in local clubs.

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  1. That looks damn sturdy. Nice work. Some use 1/4 or 3/8 round steel for supports just so you can adjust a little with a big lever/hammer. Yours looks beautiful and light weight also, AND very exact.
  2. I have GC bolt in plates for the front. I found a universal set on ebay couple years ago. I like their plates best, but they are kind of overkill for rear. The rear actually use the original mounting plate. I just cut it out to match my homemade slider. I wonder if this is considered "bolt in"? No more hacking than cutting out for a set of bolt in plates. Best is to somehow go by all the original holes and reference points. The FSM has a chassis layout drawing with all dimensions. Try to get the chassis as level as possible F/R and L/R. Layout tape or paper on the floor and use pl
  3. Just homemade camber plates to save a buck. They don't get as much use as the fronts. These are the holes they slide into.
  4. Oh and here is my 3D printed drivers side door handle.
  5. Sorry have not posted in some time. Been busy making my own brake rotor hats. More on that in a future post assuming I am successful. These posts are now basically caught up with where I am at on the build. Most of the stuff I will be posting from here on out will be relatively "fresh". So here is the rear strut build up. The struts are from a 280 and shortened. The cartridges are a cheap no-name brand I bought off of Rock Auto a few years ago just for fit checks. I just welded a spacer on the bottom so there is no chance of it not seating correctly. I 3D printed
  6. Old wiring is a pain in the ass. Look first at all connectors for corrosion, the wires are probably OK if not modified. Do not assume anything is getting signal, voltage, ground as it should be. Always start with the simple stuff, then work toward the more difficult, like point to point continuity. I once had a fuse that looked fine, had continuity, but would not take any current. Lesson learned, verify the simple stuff first and I mean verify. Someone posted some good detail on this recently. The Bosch L-jetronic is a very simple system. Not many inputs or outputs. When everything
  7. The standard 1/4 turn are easy to find. I don't recommend buying from Speedway, those are made a little too thin. I learned my lesson there. I buy the Panel-fast from Brehents. I use them to secure all my body panels. I think the camloc's are a Euro aerospace thing for interior panels. A lot of aircraft companies sell them. I can't remember who I bought them from last time. These guys seem to have similar. The adjustable receptacle is nice if unsure of panel thickness . https://sri-supplies.com/
  8. I had to Google quick latch. I call those button latches. I used them in my passenger door. Greg uses 2 locking Aerolatch on hood of the EP car. He said people may sabotage car at runoffs. FYI you can get the quick/ button style latches super cheap direct from China. I use true military grade cam lock fasteners on my back hatch. We used the same when I worked in aerospace on space shuttle. They are expensive but small and strong. And damn they work well. I have 4 butterfly camlocks on the back hatch. Plenty strong enough for hood too, but kind of small to fiddle with f
  9. My last couple of cars I mounted a couple aluminum C channels about 5" long on the cowl, then used 2 hood pins to secure the front near the radiator. Makes it quick and fast to remove and install. The Ztrix hood is fairly rigid, I dont think you will have a problem holding with 4 points. For the car I am building I will do something similar in the back, but probably 2 straight pins mounted to hood and a receptical near the cowl. For the front 2 pins I went way overboard. I bought a pair of cheap Aerolatch knockoffs. Then modified the design to something a little better looking and
  10. Well then go for it. It should be a nice car when complete. And dont worry too much about the rules as long as you can reverse things. My tube car is kind of dual purpose in that respect. It could convert to scca gt3 if desired. And I usually tidy things up before I sell because it is worth more if it can be raced in many organizations. Cool, do your enging tuning on the street if able. That can save a lot of time. Of I were starting from 0, I would go ahead and do a race school. One where they provide the car. It's not cheap, but you will learn more in 3 days than any other way. M
  11. That is why you don't see aluminum tube frame cars or nothing even close. Aluminum space frame with rivets was popular and aluminum honeycomb, and even aluminum adhesive was popular in the 70's into the 80's. Before carbon fiber took it all over. It is very malable and doesn't like point loads. That is when aircraft switch over to titanium. Still a little cost prohibitive for racing except for F1. Plus steel can still get you under most weight limitations up through Trans Am.
  12. Greg is the Zen master if you want to interpret EP rules. He has been to the tech shed many times. I have personally been there.. Vintage is a little looser for sure. But again there is a gold medallion level and acceptance to Rollex historic in Laguna at the other end. I have seen newer built cars accepted there, but they must be correct. Perhaps a question again, are you going to sell it or race the shit out of it?
  13. Rule of thumb is use aluminum thickness little less than 2x steel. So equivalent aluminum structure is not so light. But when you are not super critical of structure, like secondary structure, then it becomes super attractive. I can tig steel with my welder but not aluminum. Hopefully upgrade someday.
  14. For vintage you want to end up in CP (2.4) Or BP (2.8). 0.40 over max.. That is where they ran back in the day. Many organizations use 1972 scca rules. SVRA has one of the most complete rule books. Engines are fairly unlimited. An EP air dam would not be allowed. Rules enforcement depend on the org. Some are happy to have a lot of cars on track and no one complains, others want parity, and many complain. And even they are welcoming as long as you are not podium. Some will do a displacement check. When I run with SVRA they are critical of obvious things like big brakes and super w
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