Flak280z

still trying to decide if I want to run the exhaust to the muffler beging the oil pan like the intake side is, or just run it under the trans.

Hello all, finally a post without a question from me. I’m doing the turbo conversion on my 78 280, but I decided to make it difficult for myself and throw it on the passenger side. I also decided to use my MSA 3-2 NA headers because I like to nickel and dime :). Just thought I’d share how I’m making the passenger side mounts and the custom exhausting because I couldn’t really find much info on either topic. Get ready for a lot of pictures and feel free to offer advice.

looking for a turbo oil pump driveshaft. Located in west chester, PA. Willing to pay for shipping. Thanks!

Hello All, still researching about rb's in order to potential do a swap. I'm looking at stock IACV valve replacements, but they all seem to be $150+ on ebay and non-existent on other sites. I've come across a few forums talking about Sentra IACV's on rb25's, but those won't fit on rb20's. Is there a go to swap for the rb20, or do you just have to buck up and pay the $150-$300 on ebay? Also, coming up with some conflicting info on the rb oil-pan situation. I came across this dude saying the rb20 doesn't need the rear sump pan? Is this true? Thanks for all the help!

Potentially looking to swap in an rb20det and reading up on some forums. I come across a lot of posts not mentioning rear diffs when swapping them in. Will I be ok with my 3.9 r200 from an 82zx? Should I LSD swap it? Also, will the stock 1978 280z driveshaft be ok to keep? From what I've read, it looks like it'll be fine if I use stock RB mounts with the 280z tranny mount. Thanks!

Seems like I need to buy or rebuild my hazard switch. 12v input, not outputting the 12v out of the GY wire.

I'm back, this time with an electrical issue I can't figure out. Hazards work, turn signals don't. I know, I know, use the search feature. Did that and did some tracing. I'm getting around 0.8v at the GY wire at the hazard switch junction, but then I go to the GY wire at the turn signal flasher unit, and nothing. Signals work if I jump then at the Black C9 connector, but it seems I'm losing power somewhere along the line, and can't seem to figure it out. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that the GY wire powers to signals, so I assume I'm losing power between the hazard switch and flasher unit for turn signals? Does it go straight from the hazard switch to the turn signal flasher, or does it go back to connector C9 and then the flasher unit? -Flak

Well, after more testing, it seems to be a user error. Was able to drive for a good hour today without and bucking/shudders. I think it's a combination of a new clutch and upgraded transmission/rear end that I have to get used to. The car seems to like higher rpms when starting from a stop, and a different clutch engagement that what it was before. Car is much more fun with the new parts. Not a fast car, but a fun one.

I just put the transmission back in today, empty, and filled it with 75% swepco/25% atf. No chance of any on clutch. I have a feeling it's just me. Does the closer ratio of the zx tranny along with the higher 3.9 diff need more rpm's to get going? It feels like the engine bogs down, and the rear diff grinds/shudders.

Good News, replaced both the front main-shaft and front counter-shaft bearings which solved my grinding problems! So, to recap the project, I am finished installing a 82 280zx transmission, r200 3.9 rear diff, and a new clutch disk and pp. Bad news is that I now have a shudder and a howl noise. The shudder happens when accelerating from a stop. It feels like the diff is grinding/not catching. It seems like the problem does not occur when I keep the revs high when accelerating from a stop. Does not happen in any gear besides 1st. It might just be a user error with me not being used to the new clutch/tranny. I've read that adding some friction modifier helps with this issue in LSD's, but IK this is an open diff. Could that help here? The howling noise I'm pretty sure is transmission related, as it only occurs in 1-3rd gears. It does seem to follow the rpms and go up when accelerating, but disappears in 4th. It is not that loud to begin with though.

I have it all apart. To pull the countershaft and main bearings, do I remove the rods on the right?

Thanks for the help! I'll just replace both. I do have a FSM, but I sometimes get confused with the wording. Downfalls of this being my first project car. Appreciate you guys and the help you give.

Yes, noise goes away with clutch pedal in. Is also present in neutral, which leads me to the input shaft. I just installed this tranny as a swap, it had been in someone's garage drained of fluid for awhile. Have mt-90 in it, and drove it probably 20 miles to listen to the whirring/grinding. It's coming from towards the bellhousing area, which also leads me to believe it's the input shaft bearing. NewZed, by "Main" bearing, do you mean input shaft? The noise seems to go away in 4th, which, by searching through forum posts, seems to lead me back to the input shaft bearing. All this info makes me pretty dead set on the input shaft, just seeing if there was any other insight.

Hello all, I have a 78 280z that I just swapped an 82 280zx 5 speed into along with a 3.9 r200. Also replaced clutch stuff (pp, disk, throw-out). Hearing a grinding now in neutral and in gear. It goes away when clutch is pushed in. Noise does not go away when slave cylinder is disconnected. Does this sound more like a throw-out bearing or the input shaft bearing? Any tests I can do? I swapped this tranny in to replace a bad 2nd gear synchro on my stock 5 speed, so I'm hoping it's not the input shaft bearing.

As the title says, my 78z has been having some idle issues. My Z has been running hit or miss recently. Either it runs perfectly, or it runs with weird idle fluctuations and pressure drops. The idle rpms rise and fall between 300 and the normal 800. I suspect my fuel tank might have junk in it, and it might be clogging the fuel filter I have, hence the pressure drops. See attached video.