Flak280z

BREAKING NEWS: We have started. Redid all my injector wiring, even though it mostly looked fine, I think a few of my crimps were bad on the signal side, causing them not to fire. Did an extra nice job, and all was well. Still wouldn't start. Decided to rotate back to TDC. Turns out, the last time I set to TDC, I thought my dizzy rotor was 180 off, so I rotated the shaft 180. It was correct where it was the first time, so I actually made it 180 degrees off. Just moved my plugs and it started right up. Can't work on it however, as my oil pump gasket gave out, I think I overtightened the pump. Of course something else happens and I can't tune it today. Oh well, at least it starts now. Will take this as an opportunity to turn my shaft to the correct orientation when the gasket arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the help NewZed, you were right, exhaust stroke, not compression. Will post in my build thread over in the L6 forum when I get the timing dialed in tomorrow. Excited to hear the turbo.

OK, here's some good new information. When turning the key to ON, Megasquirt primes the system, and is supposed to do a single injector spray. NONE of the injectors squirt when they key goes to on. When cranking, ONLY injectors 5 & 6 spray, like I thought. This extremely lean situation would explain the engine wanting to backfire out of the intake here and there with ether and barely wanting to still even start on ether.

Attached is a pic of the header I chopped up and made into a turbo inlet exhaust pipe. Could the bend be enough of a “blockage?”. I would assume the exhaust would find anywhere to escape, but I’m not sure about pressure and things like that. I can double check the whole system as well. Also, I have my vacuum block attached to a T fitting which goes to the brake booster and the vacuum port the booster was on. This block supplies my map vacuum the is internal to the megasquirt. Is this acceptable, or should they be separate? When I used starting fluid the other day, I feel like the car was wanting to backfire out of the intake. I popped out of the exhaust, but a time or two out of the intake. Either I used too much or maybe the bend in my inlet exhaust piping is messing things up. That to me seems like a pressure issue. I’m only 19, so I apologize for my constant questioning and unknowingness. I thank you again for the help. I love doing this and making this car my own. I’m glad I can save a car like this, I’m just frustrated how a weekend project turns into 5 weeks.

I will check again, but the last 2 times I set the engine to TDC, I made sure it was compression stroke. With the transistor problem I had, and hearing stories from DIYAuto about Godzilla Raceworks poor installation of megasquirt upgrades, I'm tempted to chalk this up as a failure on their part again. I know I can't just keep blaming the program, as it could be an engine issue, but megasquirt shouldn't be this hard to get running. There is too much information that I've scoured and read up on for it to be this difficult. I don't understand how I can have the injectors clicking in test mode but broken when cranking unless GRW messed the fuel/ignition circuit installing the jumpers for the single coil drive. I appreciate the help NewZed, you are very knowledgeable. I will continue to tinker and recheck the basics, but this is getting on almost 5 weeks for this install. I'm half tempted to just buy a whole new ecu from DIYAutotune who has proven themselves, but that is banking ~$600 on the fact that it is a computer issue.

Pulling the spark plugs this morning, All look brand new, meaning no fouling or burning. I put them back in, pulled the plug wires, and cranked the engine a few times. When pulling them back out, none looked super wet, if wet at all, and only spark plugs for cylinders 5 & 6 smelled like gas. I then went into tuner studio and tested each injector, and I could hear all of them clicking. Weird. 2024-04-23_10.55.30.mlg

Yeah, no problem. Ran awesome 3 weeks ago on the stock harness. I added the turbo, 82 zx dizzy, 370cc injectors, new plugs, and megasquirt. I kept the same ignition coil. I did no work internally on the engine. I only removed and replaced surrounding components. I find it weird I'm having so many issues trying to start it. It had no issues whatsoever. That's why I'm so focused on it being my settings for megasquirt. I have rpm signal in tunerstudio, so I'm certain my dizzy install is good. And I also have the CAS trigger wheel to clear signal up. I tested the injectors, and those are all squirting. New plugs are ngk and were marked as gapped for my Z, but I should check those to make sure. Anyone have Chickenman's email? I tried to pm him on here, but he hasn't been on.

Attached is my new tune and a tooth log. I had my injectors set for low impendence, when I have high. Still had no effect. I also made sure my tooth angle (15) matched my timing with a timing light. I checked my spark plugs, and most of them seemed brand new, and some didn't even smell like fuel. Maybe my fuel table is off? I tested the injectors and could hear them all clicking. It doesn't even sputter. DG280zTune.msq 4-22-24 Tooth Log 280z.csv

I cannot start the car, therefore, cannot tune at idle. Today, I looked at my rotor at TDC, it was 180 degrees off. Rotated the shaft and all looks good. I installed my DIYAutoTune trigger wheel and phased the dizzy, setting it at 25 BTDC. Interestingly, I had to turn my dizzy all the way clockwise to get back to my #1 plug mark. I set my settings for ignition as per DIYAutotune's directions. Still no start??? Not even a sputter. I redid one of my tables, so I am attaching my tune, and my tooth log. I have no idea what's preventing it from starting, but it will probably end up being something stupid, as always. EDIT: I also changed the injector settings to match my injectors. I forget exactly what the entries were called, but I have the settings at 30% and 1 ms pulse width. I did get a single sputter with a puff of smoke after changing this. 2024-04-21_13.16.32.csv 280zTurboConversionTune4 21 24.msq

No, checked my wires and changed my plugs today. I haven't installed that DIY CAS wheel from diyautotune, maybe there's too much noise. Not sure, it's hard to find what the issue might be since I have no idea about TunerStudio settings. I imported tried a few maps from the pinned thread, but none worked. Although, none of them were really set up for the dizzy, single coil setup, so I had to change all the timing and advance stuff for my setup, which very well could be wrong. Should my trigger angle match my timing mark on the engine? I'm a bit confused what that is and what the ignition offset is. I can see my engine is at the timing mark 10 while cranking. I have both my ignition offset and trigger angle at 90 I believe.

I decided to make a new post, as my new issues do not relate to my other topic. 78 280z turbo conversion, 82 dizzy. I have spark. Set the engine to tdc when dizzy was installed, and turned it back to ~55 BTDC. When cranking, timing shows at 10 with timing gun. Car will sputter and wants to start on ether. I think either my timing is wrong, or my fuel settings aren't any good. The timing talk of posts about megasquirt are all confusing. I've read conflicting information about setting the car the TDC, turning it ~55 BTDC, and also setting it at 20 BTDC. Not sure what I'm supposed to do. Trigger angle has been set to 90 degrees, not 65 like the msq says. If you guys could check out my msq and let me know where I'm being an idiot now, I would greatly appreciate it. DG280zTune.msq

Good news, replacing the transistor solved my spark issue. The car wants to start, but is very lean. A new issue I am having is with my AFR's. My AEM 30-0300 gauge is reading at around 15 AFR, meanwhile, in tunerstudio, it reads 19. I have my wideband in tunerstudio set to AEM 30-3xx, but it will not read the same values. Should I change required fuel or my fuel tables to incorporate more fuel, and how should I try to solve my afr issue? I tried inputting custom linear wideband values, and that helped bring down tunerstudio's values, but that is pretty ghetto, and still wasn't synced to my AEM gauge. I have tried both ground the gauge to the ECU ground and it's own ground, same issue. DG280zTune.msq

The board looks to be in great condition, and no visible issues or smells are apparent. Also, because the fuel circuit and everything else works, I would like to assume the board is ok, but I know I cannot rule it out. I tested the chip, and get a reading of 1352 from the emitter side (I think), and 0.02 from the collector side. I would assume this drop would indicate and issue with the chip. Thank you for teaching me NewZed and following along. I really appreciate the help. Hoping the new chip coming in the next day or two will solve this weird issue. Wish something would just drop in and work from time to time. I guess that's the pleasure of working on these rust buckets.

I was just using a multimeter. Yes, I used the left leg, which is circuited to the IGNIN, which is jumped to the JS10 port. I could very well be completely wrong in measuring it that way. I've been trying to do reading, but cannot really find any forums posts across here, DIYauto, and MS forums pertaining to measuring or testing BIP chips. I know it's probably not a great way to find info on specific board upgrades, but I just threw my problems into chatGPT and according to that, it should get voltage, maybe not during key on, but definitely when cranking, as that is when it signals the coil to fire. I think I might have short circuited the chip when trying to start it over the past few days, but it could have come from GRW defective, not sure. The fuel circuit works fine, and the injectors all trigger when using the tester in TunerStudio. That's why I'm leaning towards a chip issue rather than the board being fried. Maybe buying the DIY and saving $600 over the PnP kit from GRW wasn't worth it. Side rant on Godzilla RW, I'm not very happy with them or their products. I wouldn't buy the relay board from them, they upcharge quiet a bit. You can buy the same TunerMods relay box WITH the wiring harness premade for $60 vs their $100 box with NO harness and crappy tab style connectors. Also, they pointed me to DIYAuto's tech support when I reached out about the BIP chip not firing off. It could very well have come from them bad. DIYAuto responded to me and said because GRW does the modding for the single coil when you buy it from them, DIY cannot help with tech support. I have also had emails go unanswered, and it took over 3 weeks for them to ship my harness in the first place because somehow it got "lost in translation" with their shipping manager.

BIP chip is not getting power at key on, and therefore, not triggering the spark signal. What gives the chip power before JS10? I want to trace the circuit back to find the voltage break.

Just tested that, it read at 0 ohm from multiple test spots. Tomorrow I guess I have to trace to where it's grounding out. Thanks for bearing with my wiring novice-ness. edit: pulled the signal wire out of the conduit all the way up to the connector and found no breaks or issues. I took apart my ecu and the BIP looks perfect, no burns or damage. No weird smells either. Is there a way I can test the BIP with a multimeter? How should I proceed?