70 Cam Guy
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The radiator didn't have any mounting provisions so we made tabs and cradles for underneath. This photo was final placement, but not final mounting by AYates Photos, on Flickr
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I basically got creative with the big water line under the intake manifold. I cut off, sectioned, and pieced it back together (TIG'ed) turned around to face the small outlet on the manifold's water neck. I wanted as little flex line as possible to maximize its reliability Speaking of reliability, I've already driven to Long Beach and back for JCCS, and to Buttonwillow, flogged it on the track all day, and drove home. It still needs some fine tuning in the AFR's but I've never worried about the reliability by AYates Photos, on Flickr by AYates Photos, on Flickr
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I had them cut mine to 17" so it wouldn't hang below the core support. They angled the upper neck for free since it was 1 piece of tube. That radiator was $300 shipped to my door. Easily a great deal. My friend TIG'ed the mounting tabs on the radiator and bolted it in (isolated). There are a couple cradles welded in at the bottom to support the core. I bought the lowest profile 16" Spal fan that I could find. It barely fits because of my engine placement. In August heat it does climb in traffic but once the fan comes on, it cools right down. This was August heat in the bay area. I highly recommend the guys at PRC. They warn of a hefty lead time when you phone in but mine was shipped in 3 days and everything is made to order! If I recall, 24x19 double pass GM radiator was 220, cutting the height was $40, and total with shipping came in right at or under 300.
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Hey 656delta, glad this was able to help someone! It's been a while since my last update. The fuel lines were redone back in September. The Bosch 044 fuel pump moved so much fuel we were seeing pressure in the return line. I bought a smaller pump for, I think, an E30 BMW. A new feed line is in and the old feed line is now my return. Also dumped the Nismo thermostat for an OEM Nissan thermostat. The engine warms up normally now, and runs much smoother. Also the track day in November, the engine never heated up past half way until the afternoon. It never really got hot, ran great. Also installed an R180 LSD with 4.88s. I have never heard of this gear set but the diff was pulled from a Rebello built 510 in the late 80s / early 90s. It is pretty extreme, but it seems to be a great match for the lower torque rb20. 3500-3800 rpm on the freeway, very smooth, and the boost is right there when I want it. At the same time I installed an RT style diff mount to keep that diff in place. The driveline feels great, no slop at all.
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If you're using a big fuel pump like the Bosch 044, make sure your fuel line is physically big enough. I was seeing pressure in my return line it moved too much fuel. We installed a larger feed and used the old feed as the return. Also I bought a smaller Bosch pump
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It's actually just a Tomei FPR fitting and a 90 degree elbow. The damper wouldn't fit with my plenum.
If you're using a big fuel pump like the Bosch 044, m...
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hey, what is that blue fitting you have on the back side of your rb 20 where the return damper is supposed to be? I'm having pressure problems with my nismo fpr.
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hey Derek, good to see you made it on HybridZ. Sorry I don't make it on the board as much anymore. Power is great, more than I originally planned on. Running 8psi and the old fuel pump, it put down 216 on one pull. Since then boost is up around 12 pounds and I replaced fuel pump and ran a new (bigger) feed line. Just did a track day at Buttonwillow and it totally rips
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hey man its Derek from youtube thanks for the help on this rb swap info and how is it power wise in this car
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A quick update. The car is back in my possession and it's a great feeling! It has some quirks to work out but it's running strong and smoothly. I'm waiting for the novelty of playing with the blow off to wear off so I can keep out of trouble An Innovate wide band is now installed to help keep track of the AFR's and adjust the AFC NEO as needed. We also need to adjust the wastegate actuator, it's now an HKS actuator on the turbo and it's only boosting 9-10 psi. The actuator itself is the 12 psi unit for the S15 turbo so I just need to shorten the actuator rod. The tuner from GarageBOSO was up in the bay this week so their dyno was set up. In the evening they put my car up for a baseline, and to help set the actuator. They did two pulls before the guy in the office got worried about the law The car, as is, pulled 216 hp at the wheels. I'm planning on running 14 pounds so it looks like there's plenty of room to grow. I'm really happy with this as a starting point
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New pictures of my '71 Series One RB26dett 240Z
70 Cam Guy replied to dwarlick's topic in Nissan RB Forum
Looks great!! I'm liking the photographer's style too. If you happen to use him again, or have friends into photos, see if they'll do a rolling photo. You'll never want to sell it then -
hey Preston, sorry I don't have pics of the mount brackets off the car. They really are only slotted to line up with the Volvo mounts. The lower profile mounts dropped the engine enough so it doesn't look strange, and we were concerned of the hood closing. Also, if the engine were to move further back, the original driveshaft would not work. We tried to keep it as simple as possible
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Yeah I'm getting pretty anxious. The new turbo oil/water fittings arrived last week and the wideband should arrive tomorrow. I can't wait to try it with the new turbo
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I like Raw Brokerage but I've also bought some used stuff from this place on their ebay auctions. http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/ They can't be too far away, still in New Jersey
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Looks great! It's going to look as good as it is fast