Kevlars30z

Success! I wonder why T3 was having such a hard time figuring this out... Or is there something we're not noticing? Either way, based on both of your attempts being successful, I'll be proceeding with this as well.

Seeing someone do this makes me so happy!😁 Definelty going to proceed and do this. I probably won't be doing this till later next year as I'm currently working on my motor set up....But don't mind if I hit you up down the road for any questions on this.

No problem man. I’ll be keeping an eye on your updates. Since I would love to run their rear setup with my BC Coils. I’m not looking to be spending 2k plus on coils, since I have mine already.

I see you're thinking about welding on T3s tabs on your BC Coilovers. I had the same idea since I wanted to run their rear upgrade with my BC Coils. I actually contacted them and the end result was that it would not work. This is what Gabriel at T3 told me "The backing plates we can sell for $550 the pair. The weld on tabs $40 the set of 4. Yes, the mustache bars and LCA's are in stock. For the rear backing platses our setup is meant to work with our coilovers specifically. We've had only marginal success adapting other brand coilovers to it. We've tried many times to adapt coilovers like the BC stuff, but invariably, the fatter lower tube causes problems with the CV Boot and puts the coil spring into the inside of the strut tower. It tends to kick the camber to positive and require slightly extending the lower control arms as well. After having to re-do things 3 times on some kits, we no longer offer the service of welding our tabs onto other brand coilovers. We'll sell the tabs, but from there out it's on the customer to try and get other brands to fit. If you want a no hassle install, then I would suggest our coilovers."

Oops, ignore my review. I though this was for http://www.jdmcalifornia.com Should give them a call

I've purchased two motors from them. One, RB25 for our shop z and a RB26 for my personal Z. Haven't had an issue with the RB25, which is under the knife (upgrading to a bigger turbo). I test started my RB26 on the floor and it ran great. I have no complaints about them and pricing is fair.

More than likely the TC arms will get in the way. I was planning on running a Tomei baffle kit. Just wanted to throw this out there before spending the money on a custom pan. A family friend use to build race cars for RMR, if he has the chance, I'll ask him to take a look at it and see what he thinks. I'm currently doing rust repair, so I'm about a month away from dropping in the motor.

Correction, it was DREW RBZ, not zt-r. I just got the idea because I can weld and have access to the materials. Plus, I was just trying to keep it money friendly as possible. I never saw his finished result, so I don't know his structure. I was planning on creating a rectangle design since the R32s crossmember is shaped that way. I haven't dished out a custom rear pan set up, just seeing if I can save $400+. I have read that CX racing oil pans require some finishing touches to bolt up and the baffle will need some improvements. I personally prefer not going with CX racing.

I had the idea of moving the steering rack forward but like you stated, that would require me in going into deepwater. I've also thought about notching the pan but it would end up losing oil capacity. I did notice that blu808 managed to trim the crossmember enough to fit the front sump pan and managed to keep the steering rack mounts. He said they made a jig from that trimmed crossmember and made one that managed to add support. He never mentioned modifying the steering rack position. You can modify the oil pan to make it into a rear set up (like zt-r did) but that would require a lot of chopping and aluminum welding. I find it easier to make a crossmember since I don't have much experience with aluminum.

I'm a person that likes searching for my information, rather than starting threads that ask about things that have been done. As the title states, I'm trying to keep my stock front sump on my Rb26. Many of you will say to go with a custom Rb25 sump or ask pat1 to make me one. I was going to do that but 1) I'm a person that likes to keep the budget low as possible & 2) the Rb26 sump has some advantages. I came across a build thread from 2008 that supported my idea, http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=218870 The build could be found here on HybridZ but over at Zilvia he states the Pros of having the front sump. Now my main question, does anyone have a picture of his custom crossmember set up? OR a picture of it being done on another Z that I haven't came across? I've searched far and wide, although my father and I can fabricate one on our own, I would like an example to go off of. Thanks fellow members

Bump Now accepting Watanabe RS. Wheels must be in good condition.

Wheels are for a family member, don't think he wants to drop so much for wheels but ill let him know. Thanks

I always see him active on Instagram. I'm sure you can get his attention on a comment if he doesn't end up replying to your personal messages.

As the topic states, looking for some Atara Pisang wheels. Mainly looking for 15x10 but MAY consider 15x9.5 as a last resort. As for the Wats, 16x9.5 -19 would be ideal. Located in SoCal and would prefer if they were local. If you have something, please let me know Thanks

As the title says. Looking for a manual transmission for a Rb25 series 2. Looking for one locally. Around the Orange County, CA area. Willing to drive 100 miles. At the right reasonable price.