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About gmanatc97

  • Birthday 10/15/1978

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    Prattville AL

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  1. I finally got my 78 280Z running again after putting in the new floors. So here is my problem: Engine runs really good, but when I let off the throttle (at any RPM) I start to smell fuel like its running really rich. It is a mostly stock motor, all I changed is: Header, 2 1/2" pipe to a flowmaster super 44, took out the charcoal canister and added an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Thanks in advance for everyone's help, not only on this issue but with the whole build.
  2. Its been a wild and crazy couple of months. I have gotten a lot done on the car and thats why I have not posted in a while. I will be back dating the progress on the car over the next few weeks about what I did since my last post. I found out I was moving here in a month or two so needed to get as much work done as possible. I am now able to drive the car and have some fun with it. I even took it to ZDayZ up at the Tail of the Dragon (Deals Gap) back in May. Here is a quick run down of what all I got done and will be posting details about in later posts. I finished the passenger side floor pan Finished the rear hatch area (fuel cell tucked in and covered) Wheels and tires mounted (needed spacers and longer wheel studs) Front air dam and grill put back in (at least until they get painted) Headers and full exhaust in Engine fully put together and runs real good (this project will never be 100% complete) Installed new carpet and padding for less than around $200 (just need to finish one door panel and interior is done, for now) Made and installed new hood vents Like I said, I will be going in more detail in the coming days. Thanks to HybridZ for helping me and getting this car from a yard find to a drivable fun Z!
  3. I had the same issue on my car. It looked like just a small hole, but the more metal I exposed, the more rust and holes I found. I have now replaced the majority of the drivers side floor pan and now finishing up the whole passenger side to include part of the frame rail. What it looks like on the surface is just a small indication of whats under all the paint, tar... These cars were not made with very thick metal to begin with, so when the rust starts it spreads like wild fire and eats through just as fast. I would expose as much as you can and replace the bad metal, don't patch it.
  4. I would, but that is a hell of a plane ride!
  5. Thanks for the info. Guess I will go that route.
  6. So what do you guys use for the rear hatch?
  7. Sweet, you staying at the Dragon, do they still do that? I do like what you have done with the car though. Your pics gave me an idea what mine will look like soon. I have the same air dam and planning on only using the upper grill and no bumpers.
  8. You have been in Korea for the last 13 months? Are you ARMY? I only had to spend 12 months in that country, Camp Red Cloud, but that was 00-01. Nice to see the drivers in Korea are still aiming at military vehicles for a check from government.
  9. I had to cut out the seat mounting bracket so that the new floor pan could replace the bad metal under it. When I did that I realized just how bad the front of it was. I ended up cutting about half of the front metal off. After rebuilding the front, I welded it back in the car. It took a little talking to it to get it back in the right place. The last thing I needed was to have to beat on it or modify the seat to line up. I test fit the seat and thankfully it went right in and the bolt holes lined up perfectly. Please excuse the ugly seat cover, I put it on the seat so I could sit and see how the seat felt finally back in the car. Now hopefully the passenger side goes just as well as the drivers side did.
  10. After getting the new pan in place I spot welded it just to hold it in place while I used a hammer and a few other tools to form it to the curves of the car. Took a little while but ended up working pretty well. I ended up having to take a small chunk out of the frame rail due to rust I just then cut and bent a small piece of metal to fill it in. The floor pan sits pretty well along the frame rail, after talking to it a bit. I also got the running light openings closed up. I just cut a small piece of metal and welded it in slowly so I didn't warp the body panels. I will fill in the rest with a thin layer of body filler.
  11. Got a few more things done in the past few weeks. I got the fuel cell area finalized and painted. I made a two piece cover for the fuel cell well with a hole in it for the filler neck. Then I painted it with some rubberized undercoating. I also painted the filler necks. I think it turned out very well. Then I started on the floor pans. I started with the drivers side since that was the side with the least amount of rust. I cut out all the bad metal and then about half to one inch beyond the good metal. Then I measured out the area that needed new metal. Then I cut and rough formed the new pan. After some adjustments and some trimming the new pan fit pretty well.
  12. I got my wheels a few days ago. I ended up getting 15x8.25 0 offset, because of my budget. I was told on this forum by roger280zx that I could run 225/50-16s on all four corners, but whats the most you can get away with without any rub issues on a 15" rim? There is very little gap between the wheel and the shocks with the car on jack stands, so how much room will I have with the car on the ground? I think I can only get away with 215/60-15s on all four, am I wrong?
  13. Thinking about buying the one piece outer seal from MSA, any thoughts?
  14. Has anyone used the MSA inner and outer weatherstripping? Looks like you can get both for $110 plus shipping.
  15. So what is everyone using for the inner and outer hatch seals? Mine are done and need to be replaced. I cant seem to find a good alternative on McMaster-carr
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