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HybridZ

gmanatc97

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Posts posted by gmanatc97

  1. I am well on my way into this build, but I figured I would post. There is SO much information here and SO many helpful people with tons of knowledge that they are willing to share. So if during this build I do something stupid or can not figure something out, I know I can get some help by posting what I am doing and planning.

     

    I started with a 1978 280Z that I bought from my father-in-law. When I met my wife she had an 83 280ZX and loved it. She had to sell that car shortly before we got married. So when given the opportunity to get this one, I jumped. Of course instantly the thought and plans for a 500hp V8 and a full race setup were flying through my head. The car did not run and there was water leaking in through the rear hatch and doors. Well two and a half years later I am now getting some work done on the car and just want to be able to drive it.

     

    So here is what has been done so far:

     

    I have pulled the fenders off

    Torn out the interior

    Found what I think is all the rust (rear hatch deck lid, floor pans, and a spot in the inner fender well on the drivers side)

    post-6150-001499100 1338609887_thumb.jpg

    post-6150-026183800 1338609985_thumb.jpg

  2. Okay, first off, I love HybridZ! Everybody on here has a wealth of knowledge and is willing to help. Secondly, I feel like an idiot. I am still learning the Zs and how they work. I learned, with you alls help, the AFM has to have the tube connected to the throttle body in order for things to work correctly. Looking back this makes sense, how else would the AFM be able to tell that more air is being sucked in and to add more fuel.

     

    Again thank you to everyone for the advise and help.

  3. I am trying to get my 1978 280Z back road worthy and running. The problem I am having is, the car will crank and idle right at 600 RPMs. Whenever I try to apply the throttle it dies out. It will not even try to rev, just dies. I have gone through or replaced ALMOST the entire fuel system. I have installed a new fuel cell, new pump, filter, cleaned the fuel rail and injectors, and installed a new adjustable fuel regulator with a gauge. When i tested the car I was not running it on the fuel cell, I ran the feed and return hoses into a gas can. I had the pressure in the rail set at 35 psi, then went all the way to 50 psi with no change. I even tried advancing and retarding the timing and again no change.

     

    I am looking for any advice or suggestions I can get.

  4. I am looking for anyone who is parting out a car or has some floor pans and other sheet metal parts.

     

    What I need now is floor pans, obviously, and the rear hatch deck lid metal. I would really like to find someone in the NC area that has some Zs that I could come and pull parts as I need them.

  5. I have a 78 280Z complete. I started to do a motor swap but am now having to move and need to sell. I also have a semi complete 350 that was going in it. The drivers side floor pan needs to be replaced and the upper rear hatch panel, other than that the car is in decent shape. The original motor ran the last time I tried it four months ago. Let me know if your interested.

  6. That's for the earlier models. The 78 only has one fuel pump. I have that diagram in the shop manual, but even the manual doesn't say alot if anything about the relay or how its wired. Thank you for the effort though, Its going to be a long road to get this Z up and running and I need all the help I can get.

  7. I just bought and started working on a 78 280Z. Make it run was my first step. This car has been sitting for two years and ran fine before then. While working through the bugs I found that there was a relay under the passenger seat that goes to the fuel pump. If the wires were plugged into the relay, pump would not run. I bypassed the relay and pump runs and only shuts off with the ignition turned off. So I replaced the relay, and same thing.

     

    Questions

     

    1) Is the relay factory? No one shows a replacement relay. If not how is the pump wired originally?

     

    2) Is there any down side to not having the relay and making it a permanent bypass?

     

    3) Anyone have the same problem a successfully fixed it?

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