Boosted1

I'm in NW Austin.... Duval area. We usually meet up at TC on Burnet just south of Trudys every Wednesday (our little group of Zcar Guys) at around 9PM. Everyone in the area feel free to join!

That would definately work

Even at 2300, I'd still be interested. I will definately be watching this thread.

I'd be interested in a set of 16x8 front, 16x9 rear, gunmetal/black, whichever, with proper offset for ZGs

Yes, everything turns smoothly by hand, spider gears, pinion gear, etc. The brakes are not locked up, as when I lifted the car everything spun freely by hand. The fuel pickup sounds like it may be a candidate, but the squealing sounds very mechanical, like metal on metal. However that does definately seem like a possiblility, and would explain why the car didnt build boost... however my O2 gauge didnt read full lean upon acceleration, it read normally. Mysteries, mysteries...

That would def explain the whining noise, but would it explain why the car doesnt accelerate? I mean, the car basically accelerates normally under very light throttle load, then once I put my foot in it at all, the whining starts and acceleration stops.

I have a rather odd problem that I cant seem to figure out with my Z. First off, the car is (was) equipped with the stock R180 from the 78 280Z auto, stock halfshafts, and an 82 ZX tranny. Long story short, after a hard 4th gear run, I backed off, and coming up on the next corner attempted to accelerate again. the only thing that happened was a high pitched squeal from the rear of the car and moderate acceleration. The car was still driveable, but upon any kind of load/acceleration, this squeal would start and forward acceleration would cease. I thought initially it was a broken stub or sheared splines in the diff. I have since taken the car apart, diff and stub axles as well as halfshafts are out of the car. Nothing is broken that I can see. I believe the clutch is not the issue at hand either, since A. the noise was coming from the back of the car, and B. upon acceleration, the revs do not shoot up as if the clutch was slipping. However, it is really quite odd since the engine does not free rev when the squeal starts, but the car does not develop much boost, as if it was not under load. Since the problem started, but before I tore the car down I've had the car on jackstands and simulated load by putting the car in 5th at low RPMs and gunning it. The car at this point did develop a couple of pounds of boost, and I did not hear the same squealing. I checked the turbo for play/binding, it seems to be fine. At this point I am stumped as to what the problem was... Possibly the input Yoke to the Diffy? The pin for the spider gears? I have no clue. All I know is that I'm replacing the whole driveline to be safe. Anyone have any idea what the issue may be? Thanks in advance!!

What I meant by my remark about 3k RPM and positive pressure, was that it was near instantaneous to go from 25in/vac to positive pressure, and from there another .5-1 second longer to reach 14 lbs... lag is almost not an issue with this turbo... It feels like what a WRX STI would feel like with the stock WRX turbo on it... however, the turbo seems like it is hardly breathing, as even after rather spirited runs, IAT only rise 10-20 degrees @ 14lbs of boost, much unlike the stock T3, which started to cook itself at those boost levels.

I just got done installing an HX30 on my car, (78 with 83T engine) and it spools insanely quickly... As fast if not faster than the stock T3. I tested how early i could get a full 14 lbs, and it came out to be 2300RPM in 5th gear... granted it took about 3-4 seconds, but the turbo is amazing... at around 3k it seems to go into positive pressure territory immediately. I have no dyno results as of yet, but I say if you can get your hands on one, do it!

Air pressure isnt multiplicative regardless of using a turbo or supercharger or both. "So with unit 1 preoducing 4 psi into unti 2 "producing" 6 psi will make it the overall psi on the outlet be 24 psi." That line of logic is incorrect, if unit 1 produces 4 PSI and unit 2 produces 6 PSI your net boost (over ambient pressure of 14.7 PSI that is) would be 10 PSI, not 24. Multiplication plays no role whatsoever in this matter.

I've been thinking for a while, and wanted to ask yall... is welding really required to install these coilovers? My Civic has the GC coilovers, and no welding was required. Now, the kits for the Civic and the Z utilize the exact same parts in shape and use, although in different sizes and lengths, obviously. I've been thinking that could the welding of the coilover ring on the Z be simply to remove the perch, and thus create more space to fit bigger wheels? If this is the only real reason for welding, then why not install them without the welds, if I have no need for the huge wheel/tire combo? I was thinking I could buy the kit with the shortest spring I can get... the 8 inch, just slap them on like I did with the Civic, and be done with it. What do yall think? Thanks, -Nick 78 280Z