stjoetalon

Computer aided traction? Anyway, if it runs like it should, dont race for anything you wouldnt mind losing. And a little tirespin is a good thing.

I just bought one off ebay for 5 bux shipped. It hasnt arrived yet, but Ill let you know if it is what I was expecting or not.

Was that a Chevy? The Buick 455's dimensions and weight are pretty similar to a SBC(~+50 lbs, and about +2" L,W and H). Plus, it has a front mounted distributor. JTR is out the door, obviously. But I believe this is a VERY do-able project. With some aluminum goodies, I should be as light if not lighter than a stock SBC. http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Engines/swapchart.html

Thanks guys. I have been doing a lot of research lately. There is a local guy that is running 10.50's with a bottle fed 406(had a 350 and 383 all into the 11.0-10.7 range) He is on a stock r200 as well. Many 1.4-1.5 short times. I have taken a lot of pointers from his car. I still havent found a donor car as of yet, but I have started getting parts. I might have a 700r4 in my posession shortly, and I got my tranny cooler. I am working on getting the material I will need for the cage and subframe connectors. I decided to mount the 455 using plates. Headers will be tough though. I might have to use the stock manifolds

I LOVE the way that turned out. Kudos!

What steps do I need to take before firing up an engine thats been sitting for years. It turns over freely by hand. I dont mean what parts I need to replace, Im talking about a pre-fire checklist of sorts. Things like primimg the oil pump, ect. Last thing I need to dois trash this thing upon first starting it.

After reading a million old posts on the subject, I have decided on a 4 pt. -I know that a 6 pt is required for 11's, but I only plan on hitting the track a few times. Ill brake at the end. -I cant afford a quality 6-8 pt cage. -Will f/r tower braces, subframe connectors, and a 4 pt. be sufficient on a mostly solid 280z to withstand 500+ lb/ft? I wont be racing this car. Maybe play around with autocross on very few occasions, but mostly I am looking for a mean street car. I just dont want it twisting like a pretzel. My guess is that on street tires, I wont bite hard enough to have too much chassis flex. I hope the above mentioned mods can take care of it. What do you guys think?

Um yeah...Im gonna HAVE to see more of that!!

I already have a buick 455 and a turbo 400(for now). I am looking for 11's and a good start on a track car. I have budgeted myself 3-4k to do this. Think I can get a Z, and all the necessary parts to make this happen? My only demands are a cage and fuel cell. I can do the mechanical work and body work. I am just going to black primer it unless I can find one with nice paint. I have never welded a cage, but I might give it a try. Heres what I am trying to budget. 500-1k -engine tranny parts 500-1.5k -complete rolling chassis(depending on condition) whatever is left- for misc items(cage/subframe conn. material, cell, slicks, guages, relocate battery, mounts, suspension, misc items) So, do you think it is viable? Do you think a mostly stock 455(factory rated at 360/510) could drag the Z to 11 second quarters? I saw that some of you guys have thousands and thousands of dollars wrapped up in your cars. Im not looking for a show car by any means. Im perfectly fine with rollin around in primer! I know there are thousands of variables, but is this something I should consider? I dont want the car on jack stands for years because I ran out of cash.

Ive got a 72 Buick 455 in the garage with an edelbrock intake. I am looking for a Z to do a small block swap, only because I wasnt sure if the Buick would fit. This thread REALLY made my day. The search is on for the car now. I am definately going for it. ANY informative websites you can pass on would be great. My only concern is the fact that this car is going to be on an extreme budget with me doing all the work myself. The mechanical and body side doesnt bother me. But I have no experience fabbing a cage. I have VERY minimal experience with a welder. I know I can pick it up once I get going though.

Propane injection is for turbo diesels' date=' N20 is for gassers. [/quote'] That isnt entirely true. The high octane of propain makes propane injection an awesome tool for turbo cars. It does not add oxygen like nitrous. But with the added resistance to detonation, you can really crank the boost. It cools the intake charge and it is also cheap, though not as cheap as water injection.