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Namor

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Posts posted by Namor

  1. Unless I am mistaken, the mustache bar is spring steel and if welded will harden and be susceptible to cracking at the edge of any welds.  I would think you would be better off making one out of mild steel flat bar than welding to the stock one.  It might be more prone to bending (however, with a solid front mount I don't think this would be a concern) but you shouldn't have to worry about it cracking.  

  2. 21 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:

    Be aware that this piece will need some fitting to work. The original piece is slightly curved, and based on what I've heard, that replacement piece is straight. I would try to fix the original piece before cutting it out and welding.

    Thanks, that is really good to know.  I had considered getting it to repair my valance because I have a replacement from a donor, but with all the spot weld holes drilled, it is going to require quite a bit of work.  I can patch holes though, shaping flat sheet metal, not so much.  

  3. If it is a cheap brand, there may be no difference.  Engine Masters on Motor Trend tested a bunch of mufflers and found that the cheap 3" mufflers were actually a 2.5" core with 3" inlets and outlets and the cheap 2.5" mufflers were still a 2.5" core.  

  4. 13 hours ago, jkelly said:

    Here's some pictures of my May 1972 240z. It has a glove box logo.

     

    Ignore those horrible welds -- I was still learning :rolleyes:

    Oh see, on the 240z the logo is ON the glovebox.  On the 280z's it is NEAR the glovebox, so the dash caps you have a hole so the logo shows through, but you can imagine how well the hole lines up.

  5. I have an Eastwood Mig and an AHP Alphatig 200x.  I have been very happy with both.  The only gripe I have with either of them is the Alphatig breaker is on the back of the machine, so depending on how you have it position, it is kind of a pain in the butt.  Oh yeah, the Eastwood got delivered damaged, contacted Eastwood and never heard anything from them.  It was superficial damage so I didn't sweat it (plastic hinges on the door were broken.) That was 5 years ago and it still works great.  

  6. I don't remember running into any issues when I installed my pedal assembly/master cylinder but I have a 280z and it appears as though there are slight differences.  If you look here, it looks like their pedal has a bracket welded to the pedal to correct the offset.  http://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2015-10-28/240z-pedal-box-throttle-pedal-assembly/  I noticed the same thing in a few other pictures.  

     

    And if you read this thread, it sounds like the same issue you have as a result of trying to use a 280z pedal in a 240z pedal box.  

     

     

  7. Here are some resources that I was directed to when I started to focus on AE.  For now I have gone with the method outlined in the first video and have gotten decent results.  

     

     

     

    and a post by someone in response to my question

     

    "Personally I use EAE, once you get it all set up I get the best results with it. With the stock settings and no tuning it will make your car run like shit. If you want something to get up and running quick, use time based or AE pump. If you have the time and dedication set up EAE and use AE pump for large stabs.

    For EAE your going to want to do some pulls at ~ half you rev range, ie your car redline is 8000, do the pulls at 4000. Negate the coolant temp and RPM corrections

    Slowly, but steadily roll onto the throttle until WOT, hold WOT for ~2-3 seconds, then at the same rate slowly roll off the throttle till your in overrun.

    There are a few methods to do this, what I find best is this.

    Added to Walls is the coefficient that tells the ECU how much fuel is sticking to the walls, there for it directly controls pulse width. If you tell the ECU more fuel is being stuck to the walls, it will increase injector pulse width to compensate. If you are rich on tip in, decrease this value, too lean increase this value.

    Sucked from Walls is the coefficient that tells the ECU how much fuel is being sucked from the walls, it indirectly controls pulse width, If you tell the ECU more fuel is being sucked from the walls, it will decrease injector pulse width to compensate. If you are rich on tip out, decrease this value, too rich increase this value.

    Once you have this settled for your current rpm range, tune the RPM modifiers then I suggest setting up a rough map in the coolant temp modifiers based on logic. More fuel is going to stick to a cool engine wall, etc. Then tune that as you would cold starts.

    Once that is all settled you will find you can greatly reduce your Accel pump AE and really only utilize that for large quick stabs on the throttle.

    Turbomiata has a few good threads on setting up EAE, honestly for MS stuff look into the miata community. They by far have the most experience with the system and the community is good about sharing reliable information.

    If you are using EAE with a flex fuel set up, keep that in mind and realize you'll need to make some compromises on each base fuel for blends to work smoothly.

    If you got any question let me know."

  8. Just before the site migration, I donated (since my previous donation had expired) but continued to get daily PMs about my member group changing.  The PMs have thankfully stopped since the migration, but my member status doesn't reflect my recent donation.  Am I going to have to donate again or can this be fixed?

  9. Offset grind or completely different crank doesn't matter.  If you increase the stroke, you will have to decrease the rod length to maintain the same piston deck clearance.  If you  started with zero deck clearance and increased both the stroke and the rod length, your piston is going to come proud of the deck and slam into the head.   Unless, you change your pistons for ones with a shorter pin height or you alter the dimensions of the block.

  10. Figured I'd post an update.  Thanks to your feedback I finally ordered one, (from Amazon as it was the cheapest when I ordered) and it appears to be an actual factory Nissan part, complete with a Nissan Group Genuine Parts sticker and other markings in Japanese on the box.  I couldn't be more pleased with it.

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