Namor
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Posts posted by Namor
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Here is what I had to do to mine to make it fit. Once I trimmed that small area on both sides, it was a breeze.
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This is what I had to do to make my 77 280z tach work.
Since the tach was originally driven off the negative of the coil, through a resistor, you need the voltage spike assoicated with the coil firing. I did something similar to what is posted here http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=37816
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It seems like a similar concept to what is known as a Gurney Flap, but I'm not sure how it would translate in application to an underbody tray. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurney_flap
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I don't know about all turbos, but I bought a t3/t4e turbo from atpturbo.com and I had to make a new downpipe, add a spacer to the exhaust flange (the compressor housing is larger and hit the intake manifold if I didn't) and redo the intake plumbing (j-pipe no longer works)
Oh and I had to make my own wastegate actuator mount.
I would assume you will run into the same issue with any hybrid turbo.
If you don't want to do the work to make a larger turbo fit, your best bet is probably to just have the stock turbo rebuilt.
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If it is supposed to be mounted on the front of the headlight buckets, why is there a lip going the wrong way on the airdam that lines up with the bottom edge of the headlight bucket?
Having done this recently, I am confident in saying that mounting it in front is wrong and is just the wrong answer to the problem of it not sliding into place.
You can find a bunch of pictures online that show it mounted behind, and to be honest I don't think I have ever seen it mounted in front. All the ones I have seen have something in common though, the horizontal area is either trimmed or cut away almost completely.
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I got mine from MSA, and I mounted it behind the headlight buckets and it went together very easily. The thing is, you have to trim the spots you have marked on the horizontal surface so that it will slide back and in the process allow it to be rotated some. Once those spots were trimmed, I used a variety of clamps/clecos to assist in mounting it and it probably only took an hour or so.
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What all do you have connected to your sensor ground/return, what voltage source are you using for your dizzy connections and what else is connected to that voltage source?
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I was thinking about that but I don't really want to pay $270 for a set: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02m09/33-1121
Would a 240z air dam bolt on no problem to a 280z?
Yeah, I put one on my '77. Used some turn signals I picked up from the junkyard.
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Why not just get the 240z airdam and swap your turn signals?
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Look up how to identify your transmission. With an unknown transmission, nobody can tell you what you need.
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That does not extend to Windows RT though. So a Microsoft Surface or Surface 2 will not work (the Surface Pro or Surface Pro 2 will work, as will anything Surface 3 or newer.)
I have TunerStudio installed on a cheap (~$100) 8" windows tablet (WinBook) and it works fine, aside from being a bit cumbersome to use with the touchscreen (with it being so small and no keyboard)
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I'm interested in one if you still have one left. How much are you selling them for?
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Wouldn't you need a different driveshaft if the wheelbase is longer on the 2+2?
Here's a good thread from the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/
You need to be more specific than "mecanics". All of the moving parts are mechanical. Doors, wheels, engine, transmission, etc.
The complete drivetrain, from engine to differential, from the 260Z 2+2 will transplant in to the 280Z, if that's what you're asking. Not many body parts though, if it's an early 260Z, plus the fact that 2+2 body parts can be different from coupe parts.
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It isn't supposed to be specific values, you set it up and then calibrate it. You have calibrate yours so that it recognizes 220 as closed throttle and 1238 as full throttle.
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I wanted more brightness out of my gauges, so I opened them up and installed LEDs that come on a strip. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WH/dp/B002Q8V8DM
Very bright and I won't ever need to replace them.
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The reason a 1/4 watt is recommended is because a 1k resistor with 14 volts applied will flow .014 amps, which is equal to .196 Watts or about 1.5x what an 1/8 watt is designed to handle.
The 1/8 watt will certainly work short term, but keep in mind that you will be overheating it. Personally, I would swap it out just to prevent any issues in the future.
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I wanted metric rivnuts and the only two options I found were the Astro 1442 and this here
BP-738K-MET (with metric sized mandrels & rivet nuts) $57.50 http://mdmetric.com/prod/bluepneu/bluepneumaticprice06.pdf
http://mdmetric.com/prod/bluepneu/rivetnut.html
I ended up with both of them and can tell you that for M6 and smaller, I pretty much only use the pop rivet gun style. It was $57.50, but I have been happy with it. If you don't insist on metric, then the Harbor Freight one is a good option.
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I have a leftover pink one if your interested. Its been modified though,
Modified how? I can't tell from the picture.
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Post updated to reflect that I am looking for an S30 fender.
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I'm looking for an OEM S30 steel driver side fender in decent shape shipped to Augusta, GA or within reasonable driving distance of either Augusta or Atlanta. Let me know how much you want for the fender and how much shipping will be. As long as it is reasonable (I recently had a passenger fender shipped from Arizona via Greyhound, so as long as it isn't overpacked it should be similarly priced), I'll send money via paypal
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You've got to break it down and and test one thing at a time.
If you use test mode and test one coil at a time, do you get consistent spark? That will tell you if you need to look at the ignition side, or trigger side of things. I unbolted the distributor and spun it with a drill to test my cam and crank trigger signals to check that side of things.
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The original poster (wfritts911) made these kits in a batch and sold them all. At the present time I don't believe there are any available for sale but he may do another batch in the future as time permits or he might work something else out if enough additional people show interest. Your only hope at the moment is to purchase a kit from someone who got one of the original ones.
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Fuses don't short, they are already shorted and they "blow" open. Though, If a fuse blew, you wouldn't have gotten your blinkers back for no reason. It could be a loose fuse terminal though which is just an example of an intermittent connection. You can add that to the list of simple things to check first, all fuses in good condition and they should feel tight in the fuse holder on both ends.
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You likely have an intermittent connection or multiple suspect connections. Buy a multimeter, learn to use it, learn how electrical circuits work and get testing. Before that though, you could just do a visual inspection of your wiring near the radio, since it is the most likely cause. Look for loose plugs or wires, broken/cut wires.
My question though is who installed your radio and why did you not immediately take it back and say WTF when you realized your blinkers didn't work?
Refurbished 240/260Z combination switch
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by Namor
I contacted him via his website a few months ago. He did a fantastic job for me.
http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/contact-us/
*edit*
I should add that he responded the same day I used the contact form on his website.