Namor
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Posts posted by Namor
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Alright, I am getting ready to drop an L28et from an 82 into my 77 280z. I am also using the BW T5 but I am keeping the original 3.54 R200.
It has the round input flange on it, but almost any swap I have read says to swap to the rectangular one and have the driveshaft shortened or a new one made. I plan on having a driveshaft made and figured I could just have it made with the proper ends to match the T5 and my round R200 flange. However, before I do I would like to know is the rectangular turbo flange actually any stronger or is it used because it makes shortening the turbo driveshaft a possibility? I think I remember reading that the round one uses 8mm bolts and the rectangular one uses 10mm bolts, is this right?
In short, should I source a rectangular flange before I have a driveshaft made?
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I found similar adapters from Brakequip. BQ50 were what I got. They have a lot of other adapters as well too.
I don't know how efficient it would be, but I had a thought for lines from the new master adapting to the rest of the system. I was thinking you could simply buy say the 14" long Stainless Braided lines that have two -3AN Female fittings and then just use a -3AN male to 10mm male on one end and a -3AN male to a 3/8x24 male on the other. This way you wouldn't have to deal with bending or flaring lines and you'd have flexible lines that easily allow you to move the master cylinder around for adjustment or having to pull the booster.
Alright I was searching Ebay and it turns out I just wasn't hitting the right keys, but I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-3-8-x-24NF-Female-M10-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffcb80
So maybe we finally have an option for making the Wilwood swap even easier.
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I believe the original plating is in fact cadmium however yellow zinc chromate is usually considered an acceptable substitute (similar appearance and protective properties). It can be difficult to find someone to do cad plating due to it's inherent toxicity and restrictions placed on it's use.
Good to know.
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Is that Zinc plating or Cadmium plating? I thought Zinc plating was silver and Cadmium was the gold/green/purple color of the stuff you posted.
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Doesn't welding with carbon steel wire defeat the purpose of using stainless pipes?
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DOH! Thanks. #1 on your list is the answer. Both MC and booster have been off the car for a significant period of time and in that time apparently I forgot about that. It was sitting in bag in a bin about 15ft away.
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I got the Wilwood master and a new booster. However, the pushrod is too long and I can't adjust it. I have read that you can use shims to fix it, but it is right at 4mm too long and I don't think I want to shim it that much. Before I go hacking at my new booster to shorten the pushrod, anyone have any recommendations? Oh and here is a picture in case I am being stupid and it is adjustable but I just fail to see how.
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Are those 5 times due to breaking it?
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Crap. I knew that was the answer. On all four corners he cut out too much and then filled in the gaps with his MIG welder. So the plates are not sitting on anything. If I am getting this corrected, what do I do to fix this problem?
Find a reputable shop to fix it. They are likely going to have to reconstruct the top bit of your strut towers and then weld the camber plates on. Think about it like this, the weight of your car is resting on 4 points; all of which have been hacked up and filled in with a mig welder by someone who is obviously less than skilled. How long before those camber plates give out and your struts introduce themselves to your hatch or hood?
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With a new car this is fairly easy question to research and answer because of the uniformity between 1 car to the next. That isn't the case with our Datsuns. Suspension components, age, vehicle weight, and any specific clearance issues unique to your car will have to be considered (just like your exhaust.) You should be able to figure out the wheel specs fairly easily though. I do also think this problem is exacerbated by use of drag slicks. I have heard the variances between 1 tire to the next is larger with drag slicks, that could be BS I was told though.
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How does an Agreed Value Policy work with a car being totaled and buying it back?
Ex. If State Farm/Geico/Progressive totaled my car out and I could buy it back for $1000, is it likely to be the same for an Agreed Value Policy? Or is there no way to reacquire the car once it has been totaled under an agreed value policy?
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2011 GTI Here. After a turbo swap, intake, exhaust and intercooler upgrade I'm now probably somewhere above 300whp (based on advertised numbers from the company who does my tune and Dynos from other people with similar mods)
I love my hatchback. If the Focus ST had been out when I was car shopping, I may have given it a chance.
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Damn, Just the answer I wasn't hoping for. These are the times when I wish I had my own fabrication tools (english wheel, shrinker/stretcher, sheet metal brake). I guess I will just continue searching for someone locally who can do what I need.
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I ordered the inner wheel arches directly from Tabco I believe. BTW, we ordered the MSA rear valance piece. It's not curved like OEM so we ended up not using it. Likewise, we have extra pieces from the full rear quarters I had that I didn't use. It's pieces from the wheel arches on back towards the rear. I'll post pictures of the extra metal we have in the classified section to see if there's any interest. I have two extra rear hatches now too. One with glass, one without. Also have part of a front fender. I see you're in the UK so all this is likely moot. BTW love that UK car show, Wheeler Dealers. Those guys need to restore a 240Z.
Is this the rear valence you are talking about? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1C02/30-7240
If you didn't use that, what did you use? Did you just use sheet metal bent to fit? If so, what type of place did you get it from?
My car's rear end was pretty rusted and I planned on going with a shaved rear so I have been looking around town to find someone who can produce a panel like that (except smooth) without any luck. I'd really rather not spend $250 on that panel if I can help it.
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Sweet mother of ...
I'm guessing you will be running somewhere around a 355 width but how wide can you actually go on a 14" wheel? Oh and you say relatively cheap tires, but in this case what does that really mean?
Pure curiosity here, although the rear of that car does look awesome.
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The fitment was similar on mine. You will just need to cut/bend and modify them. At the rear, I re-cut the corners further forward and then bent the center down to get a tighter fit. In the front, It was really just a matter of "persuasion" to get a relatively tight fit. Honestly I never even thought twice about it because weld in parts will rarely have a tight fit all the way around. Just got a Tabco rear quarter patch panel and its the same story.
Oh and on the passenger side I replaced the rail itself with a Zedd Findings rail. The front fit better on the passenger side, I don't really remember the back. It's definitely not worth cutting the rail out unless you have to. Just modify and be done with it.
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Yeah, I would buy that it will be stronger. I guess the real question would be how much stronger. I don't plan on tracking my car, so I think the added stiffness would largely go unnoticed. I also wouldn't want to have to explain to everyone who gets in my car why there is a bump in the floorboard. But I hope it works out well for you.
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Maybe its an optical illusion but are your floors actually lower than the top of the framerails? Basically, are you going to have a raised portion down the middle of both the passenger and driver sides where the frame rail is?
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The longer of the two brake lines is for the passenger side and the shorter one is for the driver side.
The passenger side should have a Male M10x1.0 Inverted Flare on the end
The driver side if I remember correctly is a different fitting with an adapter to be Female M10x1.0 Inverted Flare.
The passenger side brake line is designed to reach directly to the Tee above the diff. It should thread directly into the Tee. For the driver side, you will need a hardline to go from the Tee to where it will connect with the stainless steel flexible line.
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After many many hours battling with mine, the solution ended up being a gallon of PB Blaster (I didn't even know they sold it by the gallon until then) and a paint tray.
1. Cut the spindle pins to separate the strut housing from the control arm
2. Fill paint tray with PB Blaster and soak the strut housing for a couple days (I did mine for 3-4 days each just to be sure)
3. Commence removal of spindle pins by your preferred method
I had probably spent somewhere between 40-80 hours total on my spindle pins before this (probably closer to 80 if you count driving around to shop after shop trying to get someone to press them out) and I don't think I ever even got mine to move AT ALL. I had finally taken them to a guy with a 15ton press who would try. He used an impact socket on top of the pin to press it through and just ended up destroy his socket. That was the point at which I was like "FML, I hope I don't have to buy new strut housings with the pins already removed" Then I got this tip from a guy who worked at a transmission shop who had similar issues and when I told him what it was for he laughed.
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Namor: did you use the modern motorsports bracket?
Yep, I got some good measurements. I have about 2mm clearance with my wheels, I measured the inner diameter of my wheels and found them to be about 13 1/8" where they are the closest. Going by that, you are looking at about a minimum of 13" (and at that, you would be able to mount but you would certainly rub)
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I have this conversion and the 15" 280zx Swastikas and they barely clear, like maybe a few mm's at most. I don't think 14's will work at all, but I'll get a measurement later today for you (and anyone who happens across this thread).
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I don't know about everyone else, but I've found that all the really good walkthroughs and such have been stickied or are in the faq forum. I may be a butthole too, but I think that making people do a bit of searching for stuff weeds out some of the individuals that may "clutter" up the board.
The problem with searching for some things is that you come across 50 threads where someone else has asked the same question but gets the response to search before asking and that thread has no answer in it. I think a stickied thread which would have links to threads that answer commonly asked questions would be worthwhile. I do also think a How-To section would be good.
R200 Input Flange Differences
in Drivetrain
Posted
It definitely does. I figured that was basically the case. If I hadn't seen so many swaps mention it, I wouldn't have even thought twice about it. Thanks!