dladow

Sorry to keep reposting on this, but found a link with a better explanation from Boston Audi on reprogramming the Bose system. http://bostonaudi.proboards1.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&num=1013528834 Dave

I just found the link to the threads on reprogramming the Bose stuff for the Audi. Maybe you can do the same on the Vette ECU. http://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/475834.phtml http://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/475706.phtml Dave

Mike, you might be able to reprogram the stereo to take out the Bose equalization if you have or can get access to the engine management software. I have the Bose system in an S4 and I remember reading on one of the forums that you can enter a code in the diagnostic software that will take off the Bose programming. As I understand it, the Bose program compresses the sound - I think it is horrible and have never like any of the Bose products or their audio philosophy. Before you chuck the system, check with some of the vette forums to see if there is similar info on zapping the Bose programming. The speakers, amp, and head unit are probably just fine if they are run at normal, flat equalization. Dave

I found the donor car for my 350 engine swap - a 1988 IROC-Z Camaro, of all things, that someone had swapped a carb'd 1979 350 from a truck and T350 tran for the 305 that was original. By the time I got it, it had been impounded, bought at a tow auction for $800, then sold to me for $450. The tranny was non-working, but the engine fired up and sounded fine. So at the least I got lots of auxiliary stuff that I needed, like alternator, power steering pump, water pump, electric radiator fan, brackets, HEI distributor. Yesterday we got it home on the flat bed truck, and proceeded to try to figure out what in fact we had bought. Once we put valve cover gaskets on it (someone had put them on without gaskets, silicon only) it didn't smoke, no smoke out the tailpipe, no funny noises at high revs, very smooth idle, very little blow by. So maybe it is reasonably fresh. With the valve cover off, I could see the casting # on the heads is 333882. After some research, found that the 882 heads have 76cc chambers and terrible flow unless some heavy port work is done. They also have a rep for cracking. So I don't think I'll be keeping those. Carb looks good, a Carter 600 cfm 4bbl, but the choke mechanism is suspect. Manifold is aluminum, haven't determined what kind yet. Idle is so smooth I assume that it has an RV type very mild cam. Manifold exhaust. I'm guessing well under 200hp as it sits, but probably pretty good low end torque. Assuming the short block is OK (there's always hope) I may go for Vortec heads, air gap manifold, and headers. If it has flat top pistons, I'll have to figure out what the 64cc chambers will do to the scr. I want something that's pump gas friendly. I could also go with World replacement heads with the same chamber size. Next big job is to yank that engine out, get it on a stand, and take a look inside. Fun stuff! Dave

This question may reflect on my total ignorance of how these things function, but I did a search and could not find an answer. On my 1973 240Z, if I replace my stock front rotors, calipers and mounting brackets with upgraded parts, can (and should) I replace my rear drums with the old front calipers, bracket and rotors? Dave

There is joy in Z land - the Z car now starts at the turn of the key and self locomotes. I couldn't stand it anymore that I had to use copious quantities of starter fluid to fire it up, plus it ran super rich, and I determined that this weekend I would start with the carbs and work from there. First thing I found was that I got lucky again, and instead of the flat top tuna can SU carbs that the '73 is supposed to have and that almost everyone reviles, I have the '72 three bolt bell top carbs that a p.o. had put on. Probably no one here cares about the SU carbs much, and I wouldn't either if I did not plan on using this engine for awhile until I can build my 350. This engine has a big tactical advantage over the 350 in that it is already in the car. So, I proceded to carefully remove the carbs and take apart the big parts and hose them down with carb cleaner. They were gross - no wonder the choke mechanism didn't work. I bought carb kits for both and used the stuff that was easily replaced. I did not take apart all the little throttle and other control mechanisms, which have 16 million little parts. (Way too scarey at this point, plus it ran well when it warmed up & wasn't leaking). Got them clean and all the moving parts working smoothly, and put them back on. Then, discovered some genius had removed the fuel filter. So, back to the parts store for a glass inline filter. With my fire extinguisher handy (in case I wasn't as smart as I thought I was) I cranked it up , and lo and behold, it started. And kept running. The Z car is now self powered again. This is a good thing. Next stop -- the muffler man. I am also thinking about having the gas tank relined, since it is probably a rust bucket inside. I think the car has spent alot of time sitting in the past few years. Anyone have any experience in doing this?

Vashonz - thanks for the link to FairladyZ - Tacoma is not too far from me. And I am interested in the Caprice if it has a 350. Many thanks. David

Thanks for the advice on sealing holes and seams with silicon caulk - a great idea. I have already replaced the hatch seals and will do the doors too. Probably should do the tailights as well, didn't think of that. I won't be replacing the entire exhaust, just the three feet or so anterior of the muffler where it looks like swiss cheese. I hope to go ahead and get the muffler I ultimately want to end up with, so that I don't have to buy it twice. Once I can move the car around I have a place for it to live while I work on it, and will pull the dash and see what's back there, and have the heater core rebuilt. I'll be sure to make liberal use of the caulk gun at the firewall as well. David

Hello, everyone. My first post, as a new owner of a 1973 240Z automatic,; bought it three weeks ago for $850. It runs, and the only significant visible rust is a 3 x 5 patch on bottom of the driver’s door and a similar size patch on the passenger rear wheel well. The rest just looks like surface rust here and there. It is orange, and the paint is in sad shape. The interior, however, is in pretty good shape – it still has the original radio and single speaker – no holes in the doors and the headliner is perfect! The center console is broken where the choke attaches. The driver's seat is trashed, but I want to put some nice aftermarket seats in it anyway. Up here in Western Washington, a big problem is moisture turning a car into a fungus farm. Fortunately, this car was stored under an apartment building, out of the weather but still able to breathe. The first thing I did was strip the interior (except the dash) looking for rust, and found none, thank goodness. I put rustproofing on the floors and sills, and added some Edead sound deadener, and will replace the carpet and put in new weatherstripping. Next it’s off to the muffler shop for a new muffler and exhaust pipe, which are trashed and put more CO in the cockpit than in the atmosphere. I plan to pull the drivetrain and replace with an SBC and 700R4 using the JTR mounts. While I am waiting for my donor car(s) to show up at the auctions, I will start to upgrade the brakes and suspension in anticipation of all that torque and hp. In the meantime, I can drive it around and see what else needs fixing or replacing. I’ve always loved the early Z’s (I’m a fifty something boomer, and had my chance to get one in the 70’s and didn’t) and when I found this site, it inspired me to tackle doing a hybrid Z. I think I got really lucky with the car, and in my case, it is definitely better to be lucky than good (I’m not much past righty tighty, lefty loosey in the mechanical knowledge department). So, with the help of this forum (and a good friend who is a mechanic and owns a Subaru salvage yard) I hope to end up with one hell of a car for a modest investment of money and lots of elbow grease. Cheers, David