heavy85

I'm about to be in the same dilemma going to 240 sx rears to keep a parking brake with most likely Outlaw fronts. I'm thinking I could fix this bias issue with getting smaller caliper pistons in the front. Since I haven't ordered anything yet it's wide open. What size pistons does the AZ set-up use on the fronts so I can get a feel for sizing based on others real life experience? Thanks Cameron

I'm trying to make sure I dont overheat during extended track sessions so want to maximize my cooling system performance. Pretty simple concept there. I dont know my temp as I have only run with the stock gauge that has a scale of TEMP. I just installed an Autometer so we'll see where I am really running. All I know it that it normally runs at the beginning of the M. As I make consecutive runs the gauge creeps up and up. I've never run more than an autox (6 runs in a day max) or HSAX where there are only three laps at a time on the track. Throughout the day it gets hotter and hotter until it gets to the upper P at the end of a run. At that pace over a 20 minute session I afraid it'll get hot. Cameron

Unless for the bling just keep the stock brakes. 120 MPH in the quarter doesn't need much brakes to stop. Panic type stocks from 120 like on a road course is another matter but you're not doing that. Although I do have to admit the stock brake feel sucks why spend big $$ for the Wilwoods? Cameron

My '72 240 ran 12.55@118 MPH with a stock LS1 - guessing 350 crank hp so you should be right there at 120 MPH or better. This was with really crappy street tires and corresponding 2.1 sec 60'. Cameron

...but if you dont turn the heater on then isn't it just like blocking the ports? I asked in another recent thread if looping vs blocking affected cooling system performance but nobody knows. I currently have mine looped and was wondering if I could get better cooling blocked. From the diagram you lose flow through the block and radiator so I think you could get better cooling system performance blocked. I have an adapter fitting (1/2 to 5/8 I think since the ports are different sizes) in the loop line and was thinking about welding it shut. More I think about it the more I think that would be a good idea to get the best cooling. Cameron

My LS1 240 is about 51-52% nose heavy with a full size battery behind the passenger seat. Me engine fore/aft is about the same as Johns Cars and I wish I would have pushed it back further when I made the mounts. Cameron

I run those with no problems. 15x10" rims with 4.5 or 5" offset I dont remember which. Cameron

Looks like I'm buying the Jeep ..... but for my sister in-law which she will then pay for with tax return. Oh well at least I dont have to dump more time and $ into the POS Daewoo she has now. That thing is the biggest piece I've ever come across. I hope she can get a couple hundred for it but I doubt it. Still waiting for the compound pics TonyD!!! Cameron

I'm no machinist so I'm just figuring it out as I go but there are a couple bits with inserts and several HSS ones. The old guy that had this way back also made a bunch of custom stuff out of taps and other odd and ends. I'm sure I wont use 90% of it and I dont even know what half of it is for. There are several boring bars which should be good as well. Cameron

I need to work on my devious nature as it's obviously lacking a bit. I'm curious what your compound looks like?????

... but flat towing doesn't help if I break something ... and then I still have to change all tires .... and front end alignment ... I just need to make a decision already. Cameron

Not many takers on this one huh. John - our old minivan has a weak tranny and I wouldn't trust it towing anything. That's not just because it's old it's because the tranny was marginal when it was new. Cameron

That's interesting as I just installed the sender in the passenger side head where I've been using the block plug on the drivers side. Hmmm - wonder how this will work out. I wish I knew what I've been running other than in as high as the 'P' on the stock gauge. The stock gauge doesn't really have degrees just the word TEMP written across it. I'm going to wait and see what the new gauge says but now I'm worried about the location - errr. Cameron

I dont have a break in the line at the firewall - that must be a 260 or 280 set-up. I guess I could remove the safety switch manifold down under the master but then I would have to come up with a tee for the front brakes. I took off the shifter boot and the brake line is right there if I could splice in but I dont think I could get a flair tool in there. Why not compression fittings? I've used them in stainless rated to 6000+ PSI. Cameron

Yeah that does help. Wonder I could splice into the original lines with compression fittings?

So here is my dilemma. I drive my Z everywhere it goes and in fact do not even have something capable of towing it. I autocross about an hour to an hour and a half away. I occasionally dragrace two hours away. I track day between two and a half and three and a half hours away. I cram all gear into the car including 15x10 rim with full slicks and drive in an aluminum race seat. It works and have not left me stranded yet. However, I realize that eventually I may (will?) break something plus it sucks after a hot summer day in the sun to drive hour(s) in a hot loud uncomfortable car back home. So an opportunity has come my way and I'm weighing my options. A guy at work is selling an '89 Jeep Cherokee for $750 (4x4, auto, 'Limited' with all option, 4L, 2 door). It's got 180,000 miles but has been well maintained. Now I wasn't looking for a Jeep but this seems like it may be a good opportunity to get a 'work truck'. Replace the old beater minivan with this to haul slicks to the tire shop, etc plus then I could add a hitch and be able to tow on those hot miserable days or the longer trips and I wouldn't have to worry about breaking something. They are rated at 5000 lb for towing but reading some forums that looks to be pushing it pretty hard. I obviously dont own a trailer so was even thinking about a two wheel dolly to keep the weight down. So am I nuts? Yes, I've though of adding a trailer to the back of the Z (I lied I do have a small utility trailer leftover from kart days) but that does not address what I'm after. Cameron

I'm running the stock 240Z radiator with an electric fan. Since I dont have a heater I simply have the heater lines looped together through a reducer fitting. It is not orificed rather is just a straight adapter. My LS1 runs cool at idle (with fan on), runs cool going down the road, but I notice when I race that the coolant temp rises after each run and progressively gets hotter each run. Since so far I've only had the stock gauge I just know it goes from the normal first leg of the M in the TEMP on the gauge face up into the bottom or middle of the P. I've just installed but yet to run a full sweep electric Autometer so next season I will know in degrees where I am at. I've only run a few laps at a time on open track + many autox so no 20 minute sessions or anything that would really get things hot. I'm wanting pro actively improve my cooling before I hit any more extended track days. I've already sealed off the front end and ducted to the radiator plus vented out the drivers side inspection lid. So now where do I go? Since 95% of my driving with the current set-up has proven to be fine I dont want to spend a lot of $ fixing something that isn't too broken but at the same time I dont want to get into trouble at a track day this Summer. At first I was thinking of getting a nice aluminum radiator but being cheap was wondering what else I could try first. I also wonder if the temp ratchets up because the oil is progressively getting hotter. I'm wondering if I'm losing a lot of cooling through the looped heater line. My old L motor had the line looped like this but am wondering with the LS if it matters one way or another or any other ideas I may be missing. If it's the oil that's the source of the heat maybe an oil cooler would be money better spend? Thanks Cameron

Anyone know what size the factory brake lines are so I can get some adapters and fitting? Thanks Cameron

It was $250 so while not free I cant complain for a nice lathe. It opens up a lot of possibilities when it comes to fabbing stuff that I'm looking forward to. Cameron

Well to me anyway. It's a prehistoric Walker-Turner 'The Driver Line' lathe. Works real well. I actually spent Saturday a few weeks ago at a friends house using it for some front suspension pieces. Well he's moving and doesn't want to take it so I now have myself a genuine lathe. It's sweet and not one of those things you use everyday but when you need it, it'll be real nice to have. First project at home was to trim down the 'bumpsteer' spacers so my wheels would fit. The base probably weighs a couple hundred pounds - had to move it with my engine hoist. It's made of concrete (you read that right) with shelves and a built in chute and chip collection bin. I'm stoked. Cameron

I feel like a dumb ass. Been staring at this too long to see the obvious .... will shave down the strut spacers. Cameron

I've spent the Winter tweaking my front suspension. - replacing offset bushings with spherical bearing - adding caster via adding spacer in front of the g-machine t/c bushing - swapping out tie rods with rod-ends to adjust bump steer - finally upping to 300 lb springs It's one of those install, check, tweak, install, check, tweak .... taking waayy to long kind of things to get everything to work. So I finally get everything together and my wheels dont fit. The bolt/washer hits the rim. So now my options are to up to 16" rims ($ and weight), use 1/2" wheel spacers - if I could find any, or go back to stock . The inner LCA pivot has already been moved up ~5/8" and I run 1" "bumpsteer" spacers so the bumpsteer was not bad. But on rough roads and one particular bumper corner entry the steer wheel feeds back more than I want. Thoughts, comments, something else I'm missing? PS - anyone see a reason shimming the T/C rod forward would cause issue? I noticed that there is excess threads sticking out the back so thought why not make use of them and added a 3/8" shim to push the LCA forward and add a little bit of caster. I was going to go with a rod-end T/C set-up but didn't want to push the mounting point out with the traditional method and dont want to spend the time to make a more elegant design. Cameron

Before you cut it out there is a +- to that 180 degree. From memory it's 10 deg so you maybe OK but check the rules. That's a lot of work to scrap and the fab does look good. Cameron