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Everything posted by heavy85

  1. For those that have been around a while may recognize me. Here is my last build related thread but most of the car is also documented in other threads on here: This one shows the custom LS engine mount Since the crash last year I have build an LS RX8 and am moving across the country soon so the Z parts unfortunately need to go. I have basically 10 years collection of Z stuff. As parts keep getting harder to find it would take a long time to piece all this together and fabricate all the custom pieces. At this point I dont have the time, energy, or patience to piece part out everything so am looking to see if anyone wants a LS race swap starter kit and all the spares I've accumulated over the years. There's a bunch of misc stuff I'm sure I have forgotten about but it includes every piece of Z stuff I own and used to campaign this car for a over a decade. 240Z front LCA w/ monoball installed Complete custom front/rear race brake package Custom pedal box converted to Tilton dual masters w/bias adjuster including cable 240SX rear brakes w/ fresh rotors and hawk pads Outlaw (also fits Wilwood) 4-piston calipers on front plus spare seals and hawk pads Fresh front rotors (single one day TT on them), two-piece higher end Wilwoods rings Fresh stainless lines (one race since replaced) Custom 3" front brake cooling hose backing plates Complete stock brake sytem in good shape (no booster) Rebuilt calipers/wheel cylinders Rotors in almost new shape Hawk front pads, performance rear shoes Aluminum drums with good friction surface but beat up fins Fresh master cylinder and old master cyl Stainless lines Custom rear 240Z LCA converted to a-arm w/ toe link (right side needs inspected/repaired) Custom sectioned/reinforced 280Z strut housings (right side need inspected or replaced) 5 Koni1437-Race strut inserts, all used but usable 240Z Koni gland nuts 280Z Koni gland nuts Custom gland nut tightening tool, allows tightening on car Old Tokico adjustable struts (chump/lemon worthy?) EMI bolt-in camber plates Coilover sleeves for both 240 and 280 strut tubes (two sets) Z appropriate mostly Hyperco springs - pair of 225, 250, 300, 375, 425, 500 Custom mustache bar to LCA braces "Ron Tyler" style custom front diff mount R200 Mustache bar 3.9 diff, good condition, needs cleaned and assembled 300ZX clutch style LSD not in housing, good condition 3.7 diff, rebuilt several years ago with all new bearings, w/ OBX that's now dead and stopped LSDing 3.54 diff, all new bearings w/ custom OS Giken with one season on it Inner stub axles, at least one set T56 to R200 custom Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft (dented so I would replace the tube) Custom front crossmember turned into k-member w/ LS mounts & matching motor plates Stock steering rack Stock steering arms drilled for 5/8 rod end, matching custom tie rod arms w/ bump steer adjustment Short steering arms, unmodified 3/4" 'bumpsteer spacers' Stock T/C rod w/ Gman ball and socket pivot bushing Custom adjustable T/C rod w/ rod ends (one tube bent but is off the shelf coleman threaded tube) Sanderson LS swap 1.75" headers, ceramic coated Tilton clutch master cylinder and modified yoke to fit stock pedal box T56 throwout bearing quick disconnect line Complete long block L24, running when parked .... probably 25 years ago Rota Grid 17x8.5 gold rims Unknown 15" gold rims (came with car) w/ low mile but REALLY old dunlaps 15x10 diamond steel race rims black w/ used 275 R7 Hoosiers, tread usable for a track day Pair of NIB ZG flairs but not sure front or rear 240Z door glass and working mechanisms Great condition wiper motor 280Z stub axles w/ companion flanges 240Z stub axles w/ companion flanges Set of NIB front wheel bearings plus other random bearing and seals Front wheel bearing adjustable spacers (allows the nut to be tightened against a sleeve instead of relying on bearing preload) Several stock companion flanges Pair 280Z front hubs and pair of 240Z hubs 280ZXT CV axles w/ custom 240Z companion flanges (need boots replaced) 280ZXT CV axles w/ custom 280Z companion flanges (need boots replaced) 3 Stock half-shafts (I ran these without issue more than anything else) Misc diff rebuild shims, flanges, random spare bearing, etc Mono to Datsun steering wheel adapter Custom bracket that mounts panaramic race rearview mirror to stock location 280Z hood vents Inspection lids Good condition 240 dash, no cracks BUT has corners notched around the cage Stock front swaybar w/ custom end links (what I used) ST front and rear swaybars Front and rear set of adjustable inner control arm bushings Left taillight Lightened hood hinges Stock 240Z radiator Pair of stock 280Z rear LCA Pair of stock 240Z front LCA 160 mph speedo Urethane airdam with turn signals and custom dive planes Asking $4,500 for EVERYTHING. Wont ship and located in Decatur (central) Illinois 62521. PM me if serious and I can take and send additional pics.
  2. Lots of years ago 74_5.0L_Z had a drawing in his gallery for the main hoop. Use it, couldn’t fit better. Put rear downstays on top of strut towers not on the front vertical surface. I wouldn’t get fancy with X just simple diagonal in main hoop and as Jon says plus tie into the roof and B pillars. And weld a bar across between the towers. If you are tracking you want at least a hoop. The roof may be relatively stiff but folds easily on impact. Ask me how I know ....
  3. First question is what tire diameter and what you going to do with it. Typically Z’s seem to run 23” tire on 15” rim or 25” tire on maybe 17” rim. For 25” my experience says 3.7 for most road courses is perfect. 23” favors the 3.54. 3.9 is silly IME.
  4. So to end the story, not one but TWO gland nuts completely backed out prior to impact. I check these before every event because sometime the are a smidge not completely tight and even made a custom tool to tighten them in car. They were verified tight a couple days before the event and I've run this car this way for 13 years. For whatever reason after less than two laps here two of them backed all the way out. It was the right rear and left front which is why it came around so fast. I should have not been pushing so hard so early but may not have ended like this if they hadn't come out. So am currently knee deep in putting the same engine into an RX8. I loved the Z and it hurts can never replace it but is time move on. I keep thinking of saving all the Z parts for a later date but realistically there won't be a later date. So if anyone wants to make a serious offer on EVERYTHING Z I have ..... Diamond wheels w/R7, Rota grid, random gold 15" rims, one season old pimp custom OSGiken, Nissan clutch lsd, 3.54, 3.71, 3.9 diffs, custom crossmember to mount LS1, Camaro fuel tank and plumbing, Sanderson LS headers, complete mint stock brake setup minus booster, complete race brake set-up including custom dual master w/ adjuster cable (outlaw calipers, new two piece rotors, hawk pads, 240sx rears), two sets 280zxt axles with both 240 and 280 adapters, sweet dash except notches for cage, lots of custom suspension bits (see underneath pics above but need careful inspection after incident), EMI camber plates, momo steering wheel adapter, Koni race struts, stock complete l24 long lock, 240 radiator, set of new wheel bearings, etc, etc, etc. Basically LS race Z starter kit plus spares and leftover stock bits. With a reasonable offer it can all be yours package deal.
  5. That link doesnt work but I went to their Facebook page and didnt see any for sale adds.
  6. Sure couldn't hurt to ask. An early one would be lighter and the cage I would put in it lighter structure shouldnt matter much. I know this is a Z forum but unless could find a REALLY clean one that didn't need frame rails, dogleg, floors, etc it would likely take me a couple years to duplicate what I had with the free car build time I have. I do really want another Z but am thinking of next build to maybe be a late model with MUCH better suspension ... like possibly RX8 / LS swap. Not the best looks but seems like could be a really competitive platform. Still mulling around what to do.
  7. Cary - there is literally zero error on this hill. The road is no joke barely two cars wide and the entire way up, all 7 miles (video is only of top half), there are either rocks, drop-off, or ditch right at the edge of the pavement/dirt. The view of the passenger rocker/floor is scary. http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/gallery/album_1776/gallery_690_1776_529751.jpg http://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/gallery/album_1776/gallery_690_1776_305632.jpg
  8. heavy85

    Death of a Z

    Mt Washington Hillclimb 2017
  9. heavy85


    From the album: Death of a Z

  10. heavy85


    From the album: Death of a Z

  11. Well Mt Washington didn't end so well. RIP to my poor Z https://youtu.be/ZyPzalFDFMk Anyone have a roller 240Z looking to get rid of .....
  12. You guys in Europe get all the fun. There just arent people prepping old cars for rally, serious hillclimb, etc so this higher end stuff just doesn't exist in the US unless you make it yourself.
  13. Yep I have them on my S30. I kept wearing out the hubs as the outter race wallows out and last year actually the spindle itself was work down to the point the inner race was wobbly. I'm hoping these spacers improve that. The other thing that drives me crazy with tapered roller bearings is there will always be slop where you can slightly rock the wheel back and forth unless you really preload them which is not good. These spacers allow you to make them tight without preloading the bearing. As you play with them you will notice they are VERY sensitive - like rotating them a mm or two on the outer diameter makes a huge difference when you are down the the final setting.
  14. That makes sense - they even have picture of their S30 setup on their website. https://mcasuspension.com/images/gold-img-6.jpg
  15. Im confused unless there are two MCS' http://motioncontrolsuspension.com/about/ US based and they don't list and Z options?
  16. 74_5.0L_Z, I highly recommend the NASA HPDE to TT program. You will eventually get bored just going fast without lap times IME. Funny too I've landed on a setup that is really close to yours with slightly less power and slightly heavier both of which I'm procrastinating spending the $$$$$ to fix. Also same here can't get enough rear or right side weight with the V8.
  17. Therein lies the problem. If I had the time and wanted to spend the money I would sell mine and go to 5 speed of some sort but I never got that far. First and foremost need to decide what you are going to do with it. If just have fun but not compete then it's a great option but then when you want to get to the pointy end then it's not the droid you are looking for. FYI I just had mine rebuilt and was $2400 which could have bought a nice new 5 speed. I just didn't have the time to research and modify everything to make the change so at least for now have kept the T56.
  18. If starting from scratch I would not do a T56. I had a complete f-body donor so went that way but for competition it really sucks. It's very heavy, shifts slow and clunky, 5th gear is way too low and 6th is unusable. Really expensive to rebuild. If you have access to a cheap functional one they fit easy, shifter lines up perfect, and are pretty durable. This is my opinion after competing with one for 9 years now. 3.90 will get you going if you already have it but is too high IME. Also depends on your tire diameter though. 3.7 vs 3.54 or otherwise is going to depend again in tire diameter and the track you run.
  19. 27 spline for use on 280 suspension and axles. Shipped to 62521. One of mine was damaged taking the axle nut off so need replacement. Cameron
  20. How are you attaching the outer rod end to the bottom of the strut assembly? Just drill it out for 5/8" bolt?
  21. Weatherly hill climb last year. Then ended up last minute trip down to Road Atlanta in December where managed a 1:34. With the move this year Pikes Peak is still year(s) away however am now planning for Mt Washington in July. Had to add three bars to the cage but that's done. Need to figure out how to make the fuel pump automatically turn off when the engine dies and then should be legal. It's a really, really yumpy road with one mile of total seven mile race distance being gravel. Trying to figure out springrates as they say to run soft but am worried with bottoming. It's going to take a long time to memorize the road but that's in progress now. Mt Washington is one of the oldest races in the country and one of the most challenging hillclimbs anywhere. Should be fun. http://mtwashingtonautoroad.com/climb-to-the-clouds
  22. No, the deflection is local to where the pedals mount which is too far from a typical strut tower brace. Also in that first pic I can't imagine why one would want to add the cost / complexity / and undesired degrees of freedom by putting rod ends on the two legs to the firewall. There are also lighter, more compact solutions to the firewall flex under the brake pedal but that requires modding the pedal box which is a decent amount of work to get to removing the dash etc.
  23. I reused the entire Camaro fuel system except for a braided Teflon line to the front. Even reused the hard lines, tee's, connectors, wire harness, etc. You can even carefully peel off the hard plastic lines from the fittings and then use fuel injection hose and clamps to connect to the tank onto the factory plastic connectors. Camaro filler in stock location just have to section and reorient it. Camaro filter. I had donor car so just reused it all. I only have the fuel pump and level gauge wires hooked up to the tank with the complete Camaro factory tank is still in place. Also have vent line hooked up the throttle body using factory Datsun fuel tube so didn't have to run another line. Have no idea if the vent line does anything but the solenoid on the intake manifold is wired up. Nothing else is wired up on the tank and I never get gas smell or pressure/vacuum on tank. Not sure why but it works well for last 8+ years. Also the Datsun fuel gauge ... empty mean you have a good amount of fuel, as needle rises to the 'F' (first letter where it says FUEL not the Full mark) it'll start to starve on racetrack which I 'think' is somewhere about 6 or 7 gallons. I think it holds like 18 gallons or something. Only reason I would ever switch is because rules or to modify to allow run less fuel. Cameron
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