heavy85

Thanks for the link to the scraper. Since I am handy , do you have any details to the windage tray modifications? My experience is same with long left handers and a blip in the brake zone. I dont have data logger but have idiot light tied to the Accusump solenoid (triggers at 45 PSI) and see it blip in those same situations. RebekahsZ - idiot ligh to oil pressure is a cheap way of keeping tabs on this without a datalogger system. I dont understand why you say accumulator wont do a lot of good. The bearings dont care where the oil comes from - the pump or the accumulator. Yes the pump may still not be too happy when it gets uncovered but being a relatively low pressure gear pump shouldnt be too sensitive to cavitation issues. Being a former hydraulic test engineer then a hydraulic system design engineer, they are quite usefull devices to provide secondary energy source among other things. Still not sure what you are trying to say. Unless you are power limited, meaning you are WOT and can still make the turn, you are always trying to ride at max g fine line. Even then larger radius is longer and sometimes shortest distance beats less scrub depending on what's happenging before and after that particular turn.

Oh and I still would love to know where all this vapor is coming from to fix the root cause instead of just treating the symptom with catch cans and such but thats not my focus so will probably never really know for sure.

Jon - so by that logic your homemade cage is questionable quality Just kidding. Yes I made them for several reasons. From prior research many years ago now the 'better' ones had steel wool stuffed in them. I was not comfortable with the potential of small steel pieces being sucked into my engine. Its all about condensing the oil mist so you need cooling and surface for it to stick to and seperare out lf the air. This is why I build a diffuser tube to force the vapor through relatively thick, small holes to help condense out the vapor. They obviously work but also obviously not 100% effective. Im sure there are improvements that could be made like being much taller and I may play with moding them in the future. Now the question about vented or not, I'm not an engine expert but figured sucking out the combustion gases via the PCV system put was better than whatever oil mist got in the intake. Dont know if thats really true or not but the best decision I could make at the time with what info I could find. LS1Tech is not possible at least for me to wade out any true tech from. Edit: the oil I drain from the cans is black any nasty looking while the oil on the dipstick still looks new for what its worth. Alain - as said before, what you are saying is great for 99+% of everyone but then there are those of us outliers who still have issues.

I have to wonder if crankshaft windage is a big contributor instead of head drains.

As you can see in the pic, there is a drain valve on each can. You need to push harder

Thats not legal in most road racing - not sure why but rules. Here's my set-up. I am trying to keep a PCV system but minimize oil in the intake. Only partially successful but get about a cup out of them per track day. Interestingly drain the same from each can. The top port is actually a long diffuser tube that steps down and has small radial holes around it to help condense the vapor.

If you are pushing hard enough, even two catch cans (one in each line) is not enough to keep oil out of your intake. For 99% of the world probably would be great. Still not enough for me. Need to keep noodling on this some more as I would prefer not to open vent the crankcase.

I bought the 45 originally and just never dealt with it since .... never made it high enough on the list. Would prefer the 35 instead since with the 45 it flickers at hot idle which is really bad for solenoids.

Here what I've learned from HPDE / Time Trial / Hill climb / Autox an LS1 in my Z for the last 6 years. Its from an '02 Camaro and is stock except for small cam. I added an oil cooler and Accusump several years ago - never measured oil temp but was going off what others were reporting. This is with street, R-comp, and slicks. Accusimp is a 2qt (its hard enough to find enough room for it let alone a 3qt) with 45 psi switch to solenoid with a light wired in to know when it kicks in. Hot idle is right at the switch setting so its either on or flickers at low RPM when oil is hot. Run pan 1 qt overfull. On track it only comes on for a second in high transition or long left hander situation or if you let the RPM get low. As oil level goes down the light comes on more often. It consumes a lot of oil through the PCV. With stock PCV system one catch can helps, two is better, the LS5 valley Cover integrated PCV doesnt help at all. I'll drain about a cup of oil from the catch cans throughout a track day. If you are on a track where gear ratio keeps you way up in the revs and are on real sticky tires, then when you restart it will get a big white/blue oils smoke plume. Freaks you out at first but then realize it just burning off oil condensed in the intake manifold. Have not tried baffled pan but read not too positive results so dont know first hand. Next time I have engine apart will likely add one for good measure. PS - I gave up on LS1Tech years ago

How do these compare to the 1437-RACE Koni's? Looks to be bigger diameter rod? My Koni's have loosened up where there is some side to side play and am wondering if there is a stronger / stiffer strut option.

I used that and it fits perfect.

When mine howled so loud you needed earplugs it was pinion bearings.

Update. Ended up going back to the smaller swaybar before yesterday's race but left the lower rear roll center. Results were good but not faster. Car was a easier to drive, more consistent, and less sideways but ultimately best lap time didnt improve. Yesterday ran 6 laps within a tenth 119.0-119.1 where the previous race ran a 119.2, several 119.6, and one flier at 118.9. Seems like Im at a wall. As I make changes I can change the feel and consistency but really am not going faster. For reference I went 118.1 two years ago on this track, 118.8ish last year and 118.9 this year. Need to figure out something to lower times again as prior to this every race I was making gains in both the car and myself. As a side note, I also ran old, used, not well cared for 275/35-15 R6 vs the 255/4?R17 RS2-V2. Granted there are a lot of variable with both width and diameter changes but the old R6 was 1.7 sec faster but significantly less consistent.

No need for the bushings as the bolted joint is holding the load.

There are short and long Konis? These are 1437-RACE This is what Im going to test. From 18 mm (link mount modified to be ~1" shorter than stock) to 1" bar at the firmest setting (I think Susp Tech bar?). Lowering rear roll center via eccentric pivot bushings from highest to lowest setting. Adding a bunch of wing. Forgot but I also noticed a particular corner exist in a ~80% throttle max lateral accel kink that you could notice wheel spin that suddenly caught up quickly at corner exit. Kink of like slipping clutch feeling that all of a sudden grabs but I know its not clutch so assume its the diff unloading. Caster is about 6 deg, tried 7 but that was way too loose on slow corners. 25" tires and front control arms point down from center 2 deg and rear arms point down from center 9 deg whatever that ends up in roll center height. Havent got it back on the ground yet to recheck rear control arm angles with the new setting. Front toe 1/8 out rear toe 1/8 in. 51% front weight depending on fuel. 50% cross. Rear tire temps are 10-15 deg higher than front. Ride height is a little tall for a particular hill climb that is rough on the exhaust.

Clarkspeed - understand but that photo shows Im unloading the inside rear tire. Softer rear is only going to hurt that so think the main issue is I need to figure out how to keep the inside rear on the ground. G-E yes I have those

Dont know what adjuster you are referring to but have some adjustability.

Single adj set full soft in the rear. I too went from 'big' 1" front bar to modified (for more stiffness) stock bar but just finished reinstalling the bigger front bar to hopefully help keep the rear flat. Will test that next race. Why smaller front bar? I originally went there to attempt to help reduce inside front wheel lock-up but seems counter intuitive to help the rear hookup?

http://mcscc.org/Gallery/album41/DSC0085?full=1 Not enough rear droop travel it appears. Going to test bigger front swaybar and moar rear downforce (front biased now). These are the Koni RACE struts with no rear swaybar, 425/375 springs, and on RS3's. Im getting around 1.4 lateral g's which explains the lean. Maybe need to test the clutch LSD again instead of the gear type. Tried 500/425 springs earlier this year but didnt like the feel. Other options for longer struts? Something else Im missing?

I've raced on the old 'Group Buy' Rotas for 5 years with absolutely zero issues. Couldnt be happier with them. PS - dont believe everything internet experts say

Havent noticed anything in the years I've been running 3+ deg

adding to the theme ... Im contemplating ones for the racecar. Not getting $$ OEM for a racecar so is there any of the aftermarket ones that are better than others? Some are plexy, other acrylic, and many dont even say. All the ones I find also say no tools required (?) which I dont understand. Any advice on which ones? Thanks Cameron

For autox I assume bigger is better so B. Clearance to the tire, just make sure it clears at all steering and droop combinations.

What Jon said. It sucks soo much oil into the intake that it gets coated with oil. When it cools and next time you fire it up the oil get sucked into the cylinders causing a huge plume of oil smoke out the exhaust for a couple seconds. Freaks you out the first time it happens. The second catch can fixed this but you drain maybe a cup (?) of oil out of them during a track day. The catch cans are in each PCV line from and to the throttle body to help condense the oil mist and minimize the amount getting to the intake.

I like things simple so not sure I understand the need for the octopus complexity. Yes these engines consume oil via the PCV system but put dual catch cans in the stock system and it works. Keep the oil topped up and drain the catch cans as needed but its not that hard to make it work. PS - I made the catch cans out of 2.5" exhaust tubing and plumbing fittings from the farm store. Cheap, simple, and addresses the symptom of the LS oil aeration.