mas8230

OK, I spent all day trying to make it work, And re-bleeding after each adjustment. - First, I tried shortening the rod from pedal to master, no significant improvement. - Then, I made it longer, it helped significantly. It still wouldn't push the fork in all the way, maybe 1/2 at best. However, If I pumped the clutch 3 or four times, it would go into gear when running. - So I figured maybe go a little longer and I'll be there. I went just about as far as I could on length. Now, I cannot get any movement out of the slave at all!! - I kept bleeding and get nothing but fluid, now about 2 quarts later. - I took the slave and master off for now. The slave seems like it is backwards. When I push in the clutch, shouldn't the piston be pushing the pushrod into the fork? The piston in mine (if mounted) is extended all the way TO the fork. - There are absolutely no leaks in the system. However, I do hear alot of "swishing" when my partner pumps the clutch. - I did notice that I have "a ton" of play in the fork before coming in contact with the pressure plate fingers. How much is normal? Where do I go from here? - It almost seems as if the pushrod on the slave is too short, could it be? What is proper length?

I Have bled and bled and bled for over an hour, and I still can hardly get any push rod travel on my slave sylinder, maybe 3/8" at the most! I have a Howe 7/8" master cylinder, and did the "re-working" of the slave exactly as JTR. Even better, I have an aluminum slave. But I cannot get any movement at the fork. This is the only thing keeping me off the road. EVERY part is brand new. Any ideas, suggestions, etc.?

The same thing happened to me with my flywheel. I took the flywheel to a local machine shop and they machined an additional 1/8" off the inner ring.

Relocated the ground and the problem went away!! Thanks! Now, back to my other problems !!

In addition to the problems I'm trying to work out, I noticed while the enging was cranking during the compression test, the hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder to the master was getting extremely warm to the touch!! Any ideas why??? The motor is yet to be fired ! It is an Earl's braided hose exactly what JTR recommended.

Well, I am pretty close to running, but I'm having many problems. First of all, I'm getting no oil up into the valve area when cranking. Secondly, I have no spark. I have the Black with white shielded wire plugged directly into the Batt. side of the hei distributor. Everything is brand new. I'm also not getting any compression reading in the two cylinders I've checked. However, when I turn the motor by hand, the air blows my finger off the spark plug hole. I removed the valve covers and the valves are moving. The rotor is turning under the distributor. Could I have the wrong head gasket? 327 SBC, PRO Aluminum Heads, HEI, Magnum Roller Rockers

What is the best way, the best set, and the best looking way to route ignition wires? 327 SBC, HEI - coil in cap. Any pics, suggestions, part numbers, etc.??

I had my Z radiator re-cored, so the rad will bolt back in the way it was. I also had the bottom outlet changed to straight instead of being curved up. Which upper and lower hoses will work? Any part numbers? SBC 327, Short Water pump, rad in stock location. Thanks

Mine won't tighten too!! Outside the vehicle, they screw in and tighten. In the vehicle, they won't!! I can't figure it out. What is the ideal length of the bolt??

I plan on installing vintage air in my '72 240z. I am just about completed with installng the sbc 327. Does anybody know the dimensions of the kit to use under the dash? Also, has anyone done this? Did you use the stock outlets or add the other ones? Where did you mount the compressor, right, left, high, low? Any suggestions or pics would be helpful. Thanks