mas8230

Gramercyjam, How and where did you run the vent? I'm working on a similar setup. I have to outlets at the sump, one I'm capping like yours, and I have one vent outlet at the top of the cell. Just wondering how you ran the vent lines.

I just posted some pics of my Z in the gallery. I'd like to post more, but I have to downsize them to be under the 2MB limit. I have good Painless installation pics I'd like to post, but I'd like to know how to post in replies on a thread. How do you do it?

It can't get much simpler, one hot, one ground. I'll try a switch.

I'd like to post pics of my car, my swap, and upgrades. How do I do it?

It won't shut off in either position when pushed. It worked properly with the old harness. Any Ideas?

It is a '72 240Z, SBC 327. I have a wiring diagram, but the wiper motor is very vague. It just shows the motor and the different colors coming out of it, then the combination switch diagram is also very vague. Yes, I have a very good digital multimeter. I see many people have done this painless wiring upgrade? Nobody knows what wire goes where on the wiper switch??

I have my entire Painless 18 circuit harness done and working, except for my wipers, which are giving me a tremendous headache. I will post some awseome pics on the entire harness as soon as I get these $% wipers working. Mainly, I need to know what wire goes where? the blue Painless wire goes to what color on the combo switch? Currently, I have it to the black wire. When I do this, I have power on one on the yellow wires on low setting, and then power to the other yellow wires on high setting. I have no power to ANY of the wires when I push the washer button. I made a couple temporary jumper wires to the wiper motor. I grounded the black wire. The ONLY activity I get is when I put a 12 volt supply to the far right terminal on the wiper motor, and the ground wire to the other far right terminal on the wiper motor. When that happens, I get what sound like a relay click and that's it. So, what am I missing?? Why isn't the washer button working? On the 5-pin connector, what wire goes to what color on the combo switch?? ANY help would be appreciated. Thank You !!!

I think; as I stated I think, I have the headlight portion of the combo switch ready to go. I'll know for sure when I hook up the headlights tomorrow. I took apart the top of the combo switch, cleaned the contacts, and resoldered the one post. After that, I re-assembled it and the lights now work in the park position like they are supposed to. Now, onto the wipers............ A question about the headlights though; Do I need to wire in a relay, or is that the relay supplied with the Painless harness. If I need to wire one in, where is the best place? Should the relays be in series BEFORE the lights?

Brake lights are functional now. I still need help with the combo switch, wipers, and emergency flasher. Thanks.

I have the taillights all wired up. All my turn siganls work properly. I haven't done the emergency flasher yet. However, My rear lights only work when the headlight switch is "All the way" on. They will not come on at the first click. I have four posts at the top of my headlight switch, Red, White/Red, Green, and Green/White. What goes where? Also, the brake light switch seeemed pretty straightforward, Orange on 1 terminal, White on the other at the switch. I Do not have brake lights either. Any suggestions or wire numbers and proper locations would be helpful. Thank You

I'm in the process of installing a 18 non-GM Painless harness into my Z. I'm only into the ignition part so far. I got the car to start and run, but I want to make sure I have the wires hooked up right. I don't think I do. The car is a '72 240z, SBC, HEI. The Z wiring diagram I have just tells me color and not use. Here is what I have: Old Z White w/Red to Painless Red # 934 Old Z Black w/White to ANOTHER Painless Red #934 Old Z Black w/Yellow to Painless Purple #919 Old Z Blue w/Red To Painless Orange #933, Pink #931, & Brown #932 Old Z Green w/White - Not being used Why Do I have two red #934? Should Green/White be used? Why do I have three Painless going into the 1 Blue/Red? I'm sure I'll have more question when I get to turn signals, lights, and wipers. I at least can move the vehicle around now. Thank you.

I did the JTR "Guts" transplant just as the manual instructed. The tach does not work at all. I have the Black-white wire to the "tach" of the distributor, and the wires reversed on the back of the tach. I turned the 45 degree turn with the screwdriver and all. The green-white wire I do not have hooked up at all. I get power to the back of the tach too. Any Suggestions??? HELP!!!

I found the problem. I was told that I had a '78 Steering Rack when he looked at it. I'll need '78 bushings !!!

I installed the Hyperflex steering rack bushings that came with the master kit, and the mounting sleeves are as tight as can be. My steering rack floats when turning the steering wheel. I know the bushings only go on one way and they are on right, but these bushings are no where near as beefy as the bushings I removed. Any suggestions or similar problems?

I custom made mine as well. I had problems with no engaging with the stock rod, after bleeding for hours. I made a little longer of a rod out of an old head bolt, and it engages and shifts perfect now. However, I DO have a bird chirping throwout bearing in neutral and when the clutch is out when in gear. The ever slightest push of the clutch, and the chirping goes away.

What mounts, performs, and looks the best with a stock Datsun Radiator. I have a SBC 327, 350-400 HP. I had the original Z rad made to 4 core, so it fits in the original mounting holes. I have a Black Magic 150 Flex-A-Lite fan, but it's too tall, and the mounts supplied look cheesy with the dial rods and all. The set-up works, but isn't pretty. What other fans are you guys using, that mount easy and work best?

I had the same headaches with the slave and master. I even tried a pedal adjustment. I bled for hours, and after what seems like gallons of brake fliud, I still only got maybe 1/2" travel at the fork. I then took everything outan took the boot off the slave to watch piston travel. I was sure all air was out. After I watched piston travel, It looked like it wasn't moving as much as it should. I then took an old sbc oil pump drive shaft and made a new rod about 1/2" to 3/4" longer than the stock camaro rod. I installed it, and everything works great, FINALLY !

How difficult is that to do? What is the 90 degree angle drive by JTR?

Before my V8 swap, I had triple Mikunis with both the pressure and return lines, and an electric fuel pump. I kept the fuel pump, and have no return line, and no port coming from the Edelbrock 600 cfm carb for a return line. I believe I may have a fuel pressure issue. Right now, I have the fuel pump on a toggle switch. I have to toggle on and off at times to get the engine to fire, especially for a restart after just running. But once running, I toggle on and no problems. Any suggestions? Do I need a different pump, a regulator, or a return line?

OK, I put everything together and started from scratch, a nice bleed and all. Absolutely no air in the line!! I put the slave in without the boot so I can see slave piston travel. MOUNTED, the piston sits about 3/4" into the slave. CLUTH ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR, the piston comes all the way to the snap ring, and the fork moves about 1/2", 5/8" at the most. I'm thinking that maybe a longer pushrod from slave to fork may be the trick. Any suggestons?

What about the excess slop in the fork? What is normal?