mas8230

I want to install a new gas tank in my Z. Currently, I have the 16 Gallon plastic fuel cell from Summit. I'm not impressed with it, looks, placement, etc. I don't like having the external electric fuel pump. It's noisy and in the way. I want to install a traditional gas tank with and carbureted in-tank fuel pump. I have the spare tire well completely gone, so I have alot of room. My biggest concern is depth. My plastic tank is 9 1/4". I've been looking at gas tanks, and I've found some as shallow as 7". Does anybody know of any square-type or rectangular-type tanks with in-tank pumps ?? Has anybody used anything else ?? I want to stick with GM if I can, since my fuel gauge is GM-based. My carbureted V8 Chevy Monza had an in-tank fuel pump, so I know carbureted in-tank styles are out there. Also, can a fuel-injected pump be used on a carbureted engine ? I already have a fuel pressure regulator installed. That would make my selection even easier. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I used a Painless universal kit, the 18 circuit. It worked out real nice. I used the power door lock circuit to operate my keyless entry module when I shaved the door handles. When I wired the lights, turn signals, and wipers, I melted off the old wires at the contact points and soldered directly to where they are supposed to be. I believe I paid around $300.00 for the kit, but well worth it. I spend probably an additional $150.00 on support pieces. What I mean by that is, I bought male-female weatherpack connectors for lights and such. I also bought a fuel pump relay harness and headlight relays. Hopefully never, but I can probably pull my entire harness out with the way I have it in probably less than 10 minutes. I have pics somewhere of the connections at the steering column. I'll post them if I can find them.

I started the post four years ago, WOW !!! Since then, I threw in the towel on the hydraulic slave setup. When I had the motor out a while back I installed a hydraulic throwout bearing. That was the ticket !!! Money well spent !!! It did take a while to bleed at first. However, I adjusted the length of the pushrod between the pedal and master. Once I did that, I got the air out, the system bled, and it works great. It's been like that for over a year with no problems !!!!

The ebay headers work, but i've had issues with them. I had to dimple the driver side to clear the steering shaft and motot mount. The chrome discolors over time. Also, they loosen quite frequently. After being tired of retorquing them, i finally decided to get a set of Hookers. $80.00 more, but well worth it I can tell. The quality is way, way better. The gasket fits better, and they clear the steering shaft and motor mount without dimpling them. The only problem I have is spark plug clearance in the middles. Once I find the right plug, I know for a fact the extra money was well spent. You get what you pay for.

I need a shorty spark plug. I have Pro straight plug aluminum heads, and Hooker block huggers. I was running the cheap $65.00 ebay headers, but decided to get new Hookers. I was running AC Delco FR5LS, which I was told to use for my application. They fit w/ no problems with the cheap headers. I know that Accell makes shorty plugs and I had them before, but they were the wrong application. Any other choices? If Accell, what would be the correct Part #'s? What are you guys using that are in the same boat as me? Thanks.

I bought the entire kit. I used everything but the Rad support. It's sitting in the corner of my shed. I did not like the way it looked in the engine compartment. I sent the stock radiatior out and had it re-cored to 4 core, and it fits right back in the stock mounting holes. I think it looks great. Check out my pics of it in my photo gallery. MAS8230

After getting my engine running, I attempted to adjust the valves with the engine running. With the engine running, only three pushrods are pumping oil into the top of the valvetrain, two are pumping like crazy(1 on each side), and the third is just squirting a little. I'm sure this is also why my top end is noisy, even after PROPER valve adjustment, that being engine off, warmed up, and adjusting one valve at a time, turning the crank by hand, intake, then exhaust, etc. What could be the problem?? All pushrods are straight and clear. Help !!!!

I went out yesterday to work on my Z and what do you know, my fuell cell was caved in, sucked in, whatever you want to call it !!! I vented mine exactly as told in a previous post by JohnC !!! Posted by JohnC: Run it to to right rear corner under the car and make sure the end of the vent line points down and is in the air stream. This fuel cell issues has been nothing but a nightmare for me !!!

Great !! Thanks. I'll post some more pics within the next couple of days too.

Has anybody mounted poppers at the front of the sill plate on the rocker panel. I'm thinking of this because it would keep them out of the way. BUT, do you think they'd be strong enough to push the door out that far up ???

Hanamon, I have pretty much the same setup for my actuators. The solenoids, cables, and rods are set up nice. It's pretty slick with no problems. I used two very small u-shaped cable clamps to fasten the puul cable to the latch rod. I removed my door handles, and my solenoid is mounted on the inside of the door in that area, clear of any window parts. I then took a third clamp (used as a guide) and fastened it to the door frame to keep the latch rod from flopping everywhere without the handle. Smoknr6, I'm glad to see I'm not the only one with this problem !! Although the popper does kick it open. The door was always harder to close , but now it really on my nerves because it matters even more now. Hopefully, sombody can help us out !!

For those with shaved handles, what is the best place to mount the door poppers? I mounted mine on the rocker panel, just before the corner before the quarter panel. They work, but I don't think I'm entirely pleased with that location for a couple of reasons: For those with shaved handles, what is the best place to mount the door poppers? I mounted mine on the rocker panel, just before the corner before the quarter panel. The poppers do their job, but I don't think I'm entirely pleased with that location for a couple of reasons: - #1 They are kinda in the way at that spot - #2 You can sorta see them from the exterior at the bottom of the door - #3 The passenger door is giving me fits !! The driver door closes effortlessly, even with the popper installed. The pass. door I have to slam, even when changin the door guts and adjusting the body mechanism. When I remove the popper, the door closes easier, but still a little more force is needed. Any suggestions ??? Thanks !!!

Where did you get the fuel safe rubber washers? Any particular size? Thanks.

I have the Summit 16 gallon fuel cell. It will not stop leaking around the white outlet washers. I tried tightening the fittings. It stopped for about 4 days, now it is seaping again. It is a brand new cell. I finally get the vent problem corrected, now this !!! Anybody have this problem ?? Any permanent fixes ?? Suggestions ??? Thanks.

I tried the JohnC method. I vented to near the right rear wheel, with the end facing straight down, approx. 6" piece on the straight down part. I did this at 11:00 am. I came home from work at 10:30 pm and I went into my garage. And for once, I opened the door to the garage and my eyes didn't cross !!! So I guess I'm in good shape now. Thank for the input !!!

I have the EXACT same cell as Auxilary. Looks Good !! Although I did not encase mine. I mounted mine with the mount kit. I tried re-routing my vent line and angling it straight down. I guess in theory, that should work, similar to a drain trap, considering vapors rise, making the vapors SHOULD be confined to the line angled staight down. I'll know later after I have my garage all closed up. Auxilary, Have you had any problems with the oultets leaking around the white rings? I had to tighten them down twice.

Anybody have pics of their fuel cell setup?

What does the one way valve do? Where do I get one? Also, not venting properly, will this create a vaopr lock? Because another goofy sysmptom I'm having now, is when I come to a stop sign I stall. It sometimes is a bear to restart. But after sitting a few minutes, It runs smooth as silk. I never had these problems before the new fuel cell and pump install.

Sealing the passenger compartment is not a concern for me. That's no problem. The problem is the fumes migrating throughout my garage and house from it. That is my worry. Would angling the vent line down correct this? Anybody vented to a charcoal canister?

What is the best way to vent the fuel cell without fumes. Ever since I installed the cell, the fumes in my garage are unbearable, unlike before. I DO NOT have a leak anywhere. I simply have it vented via a 90 degree fitting, to a rubber hose, to under the car. What about venting to a charcoal canister? Or any other way to reduce the fumes? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank You.

Ok, I drove my Z to the gas station and filled it to the top. The gauge works, but it seems to be a little off. It is literally filled as high as it will go, but the gauge reads just a hair over 3/4. It took almost 1/2 a tank to read 1/4 on the gauge. Is there a way to adjust it?

I just installed a Summit 16 Gallon Fuel Cell. I also hooked up the appropriate fuel gauge. It seems pretty simple. With my Painless wiring, I have the pink wire on one terminal on the sender, and the other terminal to ground. On the gauge, I have the sender wire, a ground, and an ignition on wire. I have NO LESS than 4 gallons of fuel in the cell. When the key goes on, the gauge bumps off the stop, but barely goes past Empty. Now I know I have at least 1/4 of fuel. When I disconnect ANY connection, the gauge goes straight to Full. It is the GM 33-240 Ohm sender and gauge. Do I have a problem? Is something not wired right? Or should I just keep shuttling to the gas station with a 2 gallon can until full??

I have a cast slave on now, I got it from Advance Auto Parts. However, I would like to avoid the slave altogether. I found the problem. The female union between the pipe nipple and the AN fitting (per JTR), the union split, a hailine crack the entire length of the union. Anybody ever have that happen before? I'm gonna replace it to get me going, ($1.50 plus a couple hours of bleeding the cylinder), But I'm gonna avoid the problem altogether an put the hydraulic TB as a permanent fix.

Well, I've had about enough messing with the slave cylinder conversion. I did the conversion per JTR (Twice), and now I seem to have a leak. For what I've went through, I could have had the hydraulic throwout done and over with. My Z has been sitting inside a heated garage for about 1 1/2 months, and I went to move it today and the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor. I saw a small puddle under the slave. And every time I've bled the system, it took hours on end. Also, I am getting some type of wierd oxidation on the slave and on the clutch master. Why? OK, Back to my Original Thread.... 327 SBC, WCT5, from '89 Camaro. I have a Howe 7/8" Clutch Master Cylinder. I want the McLeod self-adjusting bearing. Which part number bearing do I want to work with my master? Does it come with the braided lines? Do I have to drill extra holes in my bellhousing? I went to the McLeod and Summit website and the part number for my tranny is 1400-20 or MCL1400-20. Does that sound right? But neither site has a picture of the item. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !!