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About katokid

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 07/27/1961

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. Took a while longer than expected Ron but got there in the end. Thanks again for all of your help.
  2. Its the front bush for an RN90 Hilux rear spring 40mm OD
  3. Kato, I'm just finishing up my S54 Z and thought you might appreciate a couple of pics.

    I love your car,




  4. Hi all. Apologies, I got so caught up in work and my build that I didn't have time to post here. Good news is that the car has been finished for a few years now and is an absolute blast to drive. No real issue to speak of and has been 100% reliable even on the racetrack. My full build thread here : https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/4654-kato-kids-bmw-m3-powered-71-240z/page/41/#comments
  5. Thanks for the compliments. I like detail and love to see it in other peoples threads, no doubt there are some people that can do without the detail but hey you dont have to read it. Last bits I had to do before I returned the welder to my mate was the rear mount, the tip and the O2 bungs. The tip was a matter of measuring and cutting, creeping up on it to get just the length I wanted. I probably should have hung the rear bar on it to confirm it still looks Ok. Also included a shot of the rear mount before I added the tip.....not much room up there but it hangs just right.
  6. Thanks for the compliments guys. I haven't been completely idle but life and work just keeps getting in the way...I have been plugging away on the air filter and exhaust system. There was no way the factory BMW air filter assembly was going to fit so I had to find an alternative. Ended up with the only K&N filter in their range that had the required 92mm ID to match my MAF. Its pretty fugly and far from what I envisaged but it works and I'm constrained by the oil cooler lines that run underneath. There's a bracket which you cant see that supports the MAF and filte
  7. Ron, thanks for the kind words. You've summed up much better than I could the way I feel about this project. I was so tempted to go with a more powerful engine (RB, JZ, LS) but so glad I stayed true to the NA in line six heritage of the early Z's. I just hope it runs true to your predictions and my aspirations! Thanks again for the inspiration and help.
  8. I'm slowly working away on all the little things before I disassemble the shell and send it to off for final paint.....getting closer.... just the exhaust as the last major piece. The BMW shifter has an inner and outer seal. The inner seals on the base of the shifter fulcrum and the outer seals on the gear lever and to the body by means of a recessed flange in the boot. No bolts or screws....the boot just pulls through the tunnel and seals very tightly on the recessed groove. Fortunately the original hole in the Z tunnel is exactly the right width for the correct diameter of the round hole th
  9. At least the clutch line was cheap. Two sections made up by Better Brakes in Bayswater......one from the master cylinder under the dash then behind the heater box to a firewall fitting which uses the original hole where the choke cables went through. Second part goes from the firewall down to the slave cylinder. BMW power-steering systems are renowned for overheating if the cars are tracked, most punters install a proper power-steering cooler in place of the typical loop of pipe (like most cars) that normally serves as the cooler. Under-driven pulleys are also
  10. So, took my fuel tank to Melwide Radiators as there was plenty of rust and scale inside after sitting with no fuel in it for nearly 20 years also had a decent dent in the bottom and I needed the original fuel sender and pipes covered over. They quoted $400 to cut the tank in half, media blast inside and out, tin the whole of the inside so it wont rust again, weld it all back together weld in the plate for the fuel module and cover over the original sender and pipe holes. They cut the tank on the top side of the original flange where the factory joins the two halves so the welds aren't seen
  11. Ive done a fair bit of research on the BMW forums and its pretty clear that dual pipes front to back are the way to go to retain the unique exhaust note that the M3 engines have. A large single system would be cheaper, lighter and probably make the same power but they sound pox and drone badly.....so say the forums...and its telling that all the aftermarket systems are dual pipes. As the car needs to be engineered it also needs to meet noise limits ...96DB I think is the number so making an exhaust that is legal and sounds good is going to be a challenge. I'm going to need to maximize the siz
  12. The module has a steel reinforcing ring that sits over the top to spread the load when you tighten it down and in the original Ford installation the seal has a ridge which fits into a grove in the tank to ensure sealing, I couldn't replicate this so I bought some 3mm Nitrile rubber from Purple Pig and fabricated my own but it does rely totally on the steel reinforcing ring to spread the load for a good seal....we shall see... I may have to make a stronger reinforcing ring as I fear it wont provide the even tension on the seal. The tank has a good dent in the bottom
  13. Well, happy to report I now have a complete driveline from engine to wheels, meaning my tailshaft and CV shafts are done. Tailshaft was shortened by Knox Driveshafts. Jeff, works from his backyard, very reasonably priced, knowledgeable and used to rally Z's many years ago. Tailshaft uses the standard rubber BMW guibo joint at the front and the BMW CV joint at the rear using an adapter to mate with the R200 pinion flange. I'm keen to make the driveline as bullet proof as possible so I wanted to go with CV's for the driveshafts. After reading about people having issues with the Z3
  14. Its been a long time since Ive updated this thread. I promised Ron (RTZ) that I would keep this thread up to date and Ive been negligent of this responsibility....so here goes: I cut up some 3mm alloy sheet to make a mounting board for the ECU, EWS bits and relays. Used the fan mounting points on the RHS and there is a single 5mm captive nut on the firewall (no idea what its used for) for the other side. Drilled and tapped two holes to mount the ECU and cut the original plastic relay mounts from the M3 fuse box and riveted that to the plate. The relays now just clip on. Its tight for sp
  15. Thought they looked familiar!
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