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grannyknot

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grannyknot last won the day on March 2

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About grannyknot

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  1. As far as I can see Nissan put the spacer there because of the MC they decided to use, your new MC doesn't need the spacer. What's important is the proper setup and length of the brake booster push rod, you could try it both ways, it won't take 10 min. to switch over.
  2. I believe Tabco is the only company still making them although quite few places sell them.
  3. Ahhh, makes sense, all I had to do was read the title of the thread, apologies.
  4. The proportioning valve is part of the design, it balances the amount of the flow to the rear brakes so they don't lock up before the front brakes. If you have no PV then you're probably getting 50% F, 50% R if you have to slam the brakes on your rears will lock up and you start your skid. Why would you think it is obsolete?
  5. Nice treatment on the tips and the SS surround, are you using any resonators?
  6. I use Amsoil 20w50 Z rod in my older BMW engines and it seems to be great, I broke in a rebuilt engine with their straight 30w break in oil which is not synthetic. A lot of engine builders recommend dinosaur 30w for break in because you actually want the new rings and cylinder walls to wear in together. Amsoil makes a 10w40 synthetic Z rod that would be perfect for our L24 - L28 engines.
  7. Buy it! To me that's a rust free car, everything else that needs doing is easier than rust repair.
  8. Zufelt, welcome to the forum. Looks like you have a pretty solid car but rust is everything on these cars, no matter what else you do get rid of the rust, cut it out, blast it out, whatever it takes. Just about everything is available for these cars one way or the other so it's all do-able. Yes, very easy to get that feeling "What have I got myself into" That is a dangerous place to be, many excellent projects have been abandoned at that point. So focus on one section or system at a time, sort of bite size jobs that you can complete and see your progress. When I'm tackling a big job like sanding the shell down to bare metal, I like to have 3-4 smaller jobs going as well so if I get fed up with striping paint I have a nice fun little project on the bench that I can complete in a short time. I have used POR15 a lot and unless you follow the instructions to the letter it will fail in a short time and even when your application of it is perfect it's really not better than 2k epoxy primer on bare metal. It's a different chemistry but necessarily a better and it's very easy to screw it up. So as the other guys have said make a list of the important things you want to do and let the rest slide. You can post a question on the forum for anything, you will get lots of good advice here.
  9. A decent L28 is always worth money.
  10. The only advantage I can think of is 4 spds are much cheaper than 5 spds and you could sell the 5 and make a few bucks. 4 th gear in both are 1:1, 5 th gear is better for gas mileage on the highway.
  11. I have pretty much the same setup as you but using the rear mounted sway bar from Futofab, https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:datsun-72-73-240z-orange-line-34q-rear-sway-bar-kit&catid=28:datsun-z-car-suspension&Itemid=86 No problems of any kind.
  12. It sure sounds like you have some air bubbles hung up in the system, like JMortensen I've used a large syringe to push the fluid backwards and sometimes it is the only method that will work but mostly I use a hand held vacuum pump to put 20 in.HG of vacuum on the line then when your helper has the pedal pressed firmly crack the bleeder valve for 2 sec. (you don't want your helpers foot go all the way down) then repeat. You could also try tapping the caliper with a hammer while the bleeder valve is open to help dislodge the bubbles.
  13. You need a HD wire wheel on a power drill or angle grinder, get it down to as much bare metal as possible, clean that all off and hit it with some 80 grit sand paper and work it to remove as much as possible then clean again. Coat the area with some self etching primer, then a top coat of paint. I assume you are going to run the car into the ground so that repair should last the rest of its life.
  14. Damn, that sucks, hope their insurance was up to date.
  15. Good for you, so easy to get caught up in "I have to get this done" mentality when in fact it is probably trivial. Hope you have time between Pina coladas to stop by the forums every now and then.
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