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grannyknot last won the day on July 9

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  1. Nothing wrong with the original manifold, they actually flowed pretty well especially with the air tubes ground flat, when I did mine many years ago I got a 14" piece of 1/4" aircraft cable and stuck it in a hand drill and shoved it in every opening and turned it on full speed, the individual strands separated and it became a cat o nine tails. Cleaned out lots of caked on carbon that had built up over the years.
  2. Oh yeah, I'm sure it has some pretty nasty chemicals in it.
  3. I've always just used a razor blade dental picks but Permatex also makes this stuff, https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-removers/permatex-rtv-silicone-dissolver/
  4. I've noticed that too and I think it did have foam in there at one point so as to give a bit of support to the outer skin as you push the button down to release the hatch.
  5. One of the nice things about the original orange air box is the built in velocity stacks or air horns, a lot of after market air cleaners don't have room for air horns. The original design works well.
  6. Hey that looks pretty good, are you going to sand the clear coat? I paint in a similar sized garage so I know how tough it is to keep things clean and find enough room.
  7. I think you might have a set of the original after market head light covers, quite rare and quite expensive. Great car with lots of potential, take lots of pics and post them.
  8. Or you could replace all that rotted metal. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/battery-tray-floor-battery-tray-datsun240z/
  9. The aluminum sheet is about an 1/8th inch, those 3 pieces of aluminum grab the inside bottom lip of the air dam, they're what is really doing the holding. I'm pretty happy with it, don't know if I would change anything, it's much better handling at high speeds now, before it got kind of floaty. I should note I made 2 separate versions of this splitter/support and I think the pics are mixed together, the first one a bit too narrow and the center section didn't go far enough back to stop the turbulence. The second version has the center section that goes back and under the engine.
  10. Oh it's normal, it shouldn't be but they all seem to be like that. I lined up the wheel well lip with the lip of the air dam then used a Dremal type grinding burr to carve into the air dam material so those 2 lines meet up then smoothed it out with sand paper. Also you are going to find when you get the car up to speed that the front lip, the part that is suppose to be diverting air will basically fold under from the pressure of the wind. It won't be doing much air damming and it looks pretty silly. Most of us have built some kind of support to hold the front lip from folding back, my X
  11. SEM is about as good as it gets for rattle can paint, I've had lots of success with it.
  12. Really you should start with the transmission and figure out what rearend is best for it, if you don't want to do the graphs and math just look up which 280z had the 3:90 diff and that is the transmission to look for. Of course you can mate up any trans with any diff but if they are not in a range where they can work together you can end up with some strange combo's. Years ago I dropped a Ford 302 V8/T5 trans into a TR6, (I knew nothing about gearing) first gear was totally useless, I had to start off in 2nd gear to get any use out of it.
  13. invincibleextremes setup is going to be the easiest and most cost effective by far, he's done all the engineering for you.
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