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grannyknot

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grannyknot last won the day on June 30

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About grannyknot

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  1. That's great, so much easier to weld on a rotisserie, you can stitch weld on the outside lip of the frame rail or drill holes along that lip and plug weld to the floor pan.
  2. Unless you already have the car stripped down to the shell don't bother with a rotisserie, although that is the best way to install them. Support under the wheels will work as long as there is no way she can roll off, welding laying on your back sucks but can be done.
  3. I'm getting some big clunks from the rear end and would like to ask you guys before I tear it down. R200 3.90:1, OBX limited slip with all the corrections done to it with about 6,000 mi on it, axles are from a 1983 ZX turbo. As you can see in the video the P/S axle is the worst and also quite a lot of movement on the driveshaft. The OBX was installed by a professional differential shop, the wipe pattern was perfect and bearings and seals were replaced at the same time.
  4. Here you go, https://tiltonracing.com/product/master-cylinder-reservoirs/ I have always found Tiltons reservoirs fit perfectly on Nissan MC's
  5. I kept as much of the original wiring harness as I could, pruned out some of the stock wire and integrated the bmw engine harness into the existing. As long as you have gone through the stock harness and cleaned the contacts and grounds you will be fine, it is a good quality harness. The thing I don't like about new wiring harnesses is they cheap out by using the thinness possible gauge wire they can get away with, that might be great for their bottom line but I would rather have a thicker cooler wire any day.
  6. Not at all, use the most aggressive wire wheel you have, modulate your pressure depending how deep the rust is.
  7. Can you guys who know what you're talking about give us an example of a well designed aftermarket rear control arm please? Personally I would like to know in case I ever go that route but it also would round out this thread for anyone in the future looking at this topic. Thanks
  8. Oh I know all about that. This is great news, I think the Tanks Inc. MeterMatch is just the TechnovVersion unit with a different sticker on it, the price is all most identical.
  9. So when you brought the sending unit into the cab did you use its full range of swing to determine empty, 1/4 full, half full ...? When you had the programing done could you swing the float up and down and see the gauge react?
  10. Interesting that by cutting off the steering rack mounts you managed to get the engine farther back by about 2" from where I ended up, I kept the Datsun rack but cut out the center section of the cross member, lowered it 3/4" and brought it forward 3/4". It's looking good.
  11. Normally I would agree but my sender is new.
  12. @Derek, that second link for the MeterMatch looks promising, I've programed the Speedhut fuel gauge a couple of times and my gauge still swings like a wind vane. I think I'll contact Tanks Inc. and describe the problem, I'm willing to part will $70 USD to have a working fuel gauge again, I'll post the results.
  13. How did you even that out, prop valve on the front?
  14. You could just do away with all that and go with a hydraulic throwout bearing, it acts as the slave and bearing in one piece. Being a T5 from a Camaro there are probably off the self units made just for your trans.
  15. Thanks Ben, somehow I deleted the second video from the previous post so I have put it back in, that's the test with stock prop valve. Exactly half of the pressure from the MC, the stock prop valve was disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt just before this test so I know it's working properly. I probably could have left it on and been just fine for balance.
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