grannyknot

This kit will save you some time finding all the stuff you will need to make those 280zx calipers work, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5581

You might have a look through the archives as everything you are going to run into has been solved before,https://forums.hybridz.org/ If you are serious about that kind of power you are going to have add extensive body strengthening/stiffening to keep the car from twisting up and to help actually get that power to the ground, you might also want to consider an integrated roll cage.

That is a major undertaking, first off you will need the correct dimensions for the car, by either measuring it yourself or check this thread, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33933-chassis-and-body-dimensions-for-us-240z-available/ You might also want to build a full length jig for the car and after removing the old section just place the new section on to those same support points. That the air scoop/vent is one of the aftermarket originals made back around 1973 to help deal with the carb heat issues.

@Zetsaz, @Ben280 I have to admit that I haven't paid as much attention as I should and maybe the negative comments just stick in my memory longer but I guess my real point is good intentions are not enough. ALL of the R&D should be done before the product hits the market and not at the expense of the customer. Anyone who makes a product for our old cars is doing us all a favor for sure but it is not enough to release a product that has 80% of the problems figured out.

I reached out to Mike just to give him a heads up and received this reply, I'm sure you will hear from him very shortly. I didn't know about the single parent thing, that must be quite recent and explains a few things. Hope this helps. Whitehead Performance 5:51 PM (44 minutes ago) to me Thanks for t

Welcome the forum, LSD is always a nice addition but 4:11 rear end and a 4spd will make the car great for off the line, acceleration will be terrific around town but on the Hwy your rpms will be quite high and your mileage will suck, it will be a fun car to drive though. If you could locate a 5spd that would make the car more versatile. Show us some of the other goodies that came with the car, gotta love NOS goodies.

Shiite! What a horror story, how much money have you lost? I don't think I have heard one good review of that company yet. Really sorry to hear this, if it is any consultation you may have helped many other Z owners from making the same mistake. Hopefully you can cut/weld and hobble something together that will allow you to get your car back on the road. Would be good if you could post some pics.

Looks like you've put the work into your plan, that sounds pretty complete, looking forward to some pics.

I believe to original hard fuel lines were 8mm or 5/16" they may be alright but probably better to go up to 3/8" just in case and replace all the flexible lines as well just for safety sake.

Did you ever do a build thread on the first EV conversion? Let us know when you do the Tesla build. I haven't looked into very much yet but was also thinking about the next Z project being Tesla powered. I guess the gear selection is all wires? Mount all the batteries in the engine bay?

That is very strange, they would be useless on 240z. The only bolt that might be Imperial is the seat belt anchor bolt. Nice kit though.

Okay dumb question here, how does a wheel adapter or spacer affect the spring rate?

I didn't know that, thanks.

I'm sure the all Japanese and all Nissan had some effect on the price but at $70,000 the egos of the final 2 bidders has to come in to play as well. I think you're right about a Z with a big block 572 but not because it is an American engine, it's because it's just not a good match for a Z, it's simply too big, too heavy and not at all in the style of a Z. The RB26 on the other hand fits perfectly with excellent power to weight ratio for a 240z and is very much in the nature of a nimble sports car. Dumping a monster engine in to a small light car although kind of fun in some ways wi

Your turning it back in then out right? That's best way to break up rust, screw it back in almost all the way, squirt your penetrating fluid down the hole, back it out again. I may take a dozen times of back and forth, you can also alternate with heat and quenching with penetrating fluid. That is probably the worst bolt to remove at the front of the engine, you're probably the first person to do it since the assembly line.