grannyknot

I belive @wheee! has the silvermine.

What kind of a barrel would that be? I can't even picture that.

I can only speak for myself but I don't believe they are the same problems, in the last few posts we are talking about a brief time lag before the steering assist kicks in, your Z4 steering problem sounds like it would drive you crazy.

That is not surface rust, that started underneath where the foam padding holds water, there will be a 6" dia. rust patch on the P/S and D/S, you'll be able to see daylight through those holes plus the rust on the vents are just above the the fresh air chimney, a spot known to hold debris and standing water. The panel could be saved with work but the cowling is still a fairly inexpensive piece.

It has significant rust on the cowl panel, you'll need a replacement, and the rear deck under the hatch. That tells me you need to see under the car, floor pans, rockers, rear valance, battery tray and wheel wells. If he won't send you good pics of those areas, walk away. Lots of good 280z's out there.

Everything Neverdone said, exactly. $13k is probably a very good deal considering all the work that has been done.... if it is true. Need pics.

I have Bruno's turn knob controller on my Equinox steering assist, great little unit, but it too has that momentary lag before it kicks in. I don't know if that is due to the controller or the assist motor, just a small in conveniecne.

Ironhead, check out this stuff, Solar flux. I was burning through Argon as well until I found this, works well and one can will last you forever.

Now that you have no brake safety light on the dash, you could just disconnect the wire to the sensor and leave the unit in place. It is doing the job of directing the flow of your brake fluid and if the front or back brake lines ever crack or fail the shuttle inside will close off the half of the system that is leaking. If half of the braking system suddenly isn't functional you won't need a little red light to tell you that, you'll know it as soon as you put your foot on the pedal.

Same here, I was quite surprised.

Ok, just took the 77/280 off the rotisserie so had a chance to weigh it, this is just the shell, all paint was removed then 2 coats of epoxy primer were applied and 2 coats of undercoat, the only thing left on the car is the vinyl headliner and the 2 rear wheel arch vinyls. Now I'm not 100% on this method but I couldn't think of any other way to do it with what I had on hand. With the car level the rear measurement was taken with the car hanging from the rotisserie bar that bolts on where the tie down hooks usually are, then jacks were placed under the rear rotisserie bar and the front was weighed hanging from the front rotisserie bar that is bolted to where the bumper shocks attach just in front of the radiator support. I checked the accuracy of the crane scale by lifting my small anvil which I know is 118 lbs and it was bang on, I have to apologize, I forgot to take a pic of the rear measurement but it weighed 289 lb, front was 246 lbs 289lbs 246lbs 535lbs minus the 6lbs of the rotisserie bars, is 529 lbs Someone with better geometry skills than me will have to verify if the method I used is valid.

Yeah, that will work it's been done many times, just remember to get the rad attached in such away that it is not been used as a stressed member of the frame. Normally the rad is attached to the front plate and so just hangs, if it is firmly fixed on the both front rails that may introduce some twist and rads won't take a lot of flexing without springing some leaks.

That was 3 yrs ago and it looks like itball left after getting some advice. As I said in your first thread, take the car off of the jacks, check the gap if it is any different, if it is very different you could put the hydraulic jack under the floor pan right next to the rocker, put a 2-3 ft. 2x4" on the jack and pump it up slowly to see if that changes the gap. These cars can sag a bit when jacked up even with good rockers and floor pans.

Take the car off the jacks and see what that does for the gap, the Tabco rocker re pops are pretty good but you still have to cut and modify.

Ooooow, look what I just picked up on ebay, I won't get it for a couple of weeks but will post numbers when I get it.