RedZ85

Thanks guys, it was a HARD decision to come to and i'm not sure i have made it yet. The reserve is set to $15,000. This was supposed to be a price feeler auction where i wouldnt have to sell it if i didnt want too. i am very much open to offers. The suspension is stock, i never got around to the coil overs. It was going to be a project for this spring. (no pun intended)

As heartbreaking as it is...wish me luck! oh, and bid if your interested.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170048933873&rd=1,1

What do you think shes worth? What do you think i could do to increase the value? While i LOVE this car and have put more blood sweat and tears that i thouhgt possible into this project, its time to move to school and i just cant take her with me. Deppressing. I need a newer vehical (maybe a 350Z?) Anyways, with the practically new LS1 T-56, New LSD and halfshaft hardware, all the engine stuff its got...well here: http://www.magshooterz.com/V8240Z.htm What do you think i could reasonably get for her. She runs great and is very sound. Thanks, -Ryan

so i posted this once before to get some feedback on the layout of my fuel system...and it seems that the post got deleted. Not too sure why being that this a fuel system for a V8 engine and thought i would get more V8 Z members responces here. My new fuel system: http://www.magshooterz.com/FuelSystem.htm

I wanted a return system. I heard of issues with just using the bypass in the pump to maintain pressure...plus i like spending money apparently. I was thinking of running the pump alone without a regulator but decided to make my life more complicated and do a full return style system. I am very happy with it and it looks sharp!

Actually the vacuum port NEEDS to be sealed if not in use per the installation instructions. If it is not, the fuel pressure will bounce like crazy. I solved the problem. It seems to be the gauge itself. I replaced the fluid style gauge with a cheap old $13 Mr. Gasket dry gauge. I installed the dry gauge and started the car to set a refrence point. I set it to 7 PSI then turned the car off before it could start to warm up. I then inserted a plug in place of the gauge and drove around for about 30 min or so. Once i returned home, i shut off the fully hot engine (The same environment that caused my liquid gauge to read practcly 0) removed the plug and reinstalled the dry gauge and started the engine up again immediatly. Sure enough, i was still at my refrence point! I was never losing pressure at all, but rather the liquid filled gauge would go from 7 PSI to 0 PSI due to the head of the engine! I left the gauge installed and left the car running for a while and my pressure remained relitivly constant. So now i know...liquid filled gauges are completly false once heat is introduced. I will have a full write up on my fuel system asap.

Figures! I will try a remote gauge to see if that solves the problem. Can i just use a non liquid filled gauge in that location?? The 1/2 inch fuel lines in the tank mimic the original plumbing configuration with the return located at the top and the outlet syphin on the bottem. THANKS 331! I think ill get some header wrap and heat shielding for my fuel tubes as well...My engine compartment gets awfuly hot! and that cant be good

was taken down to a radiator shop where it was boiled out, rust treated and then sealed before i put it back in the car with the new fuel setup. Also i had new 1/2 lines for the outlet/return installed. If there was some debris in the tank, it wouldnt be able to clog 1/2 in line. If i have the engine off and the pump on, i get constant fuel pressure, so i believe that the engine heat is causing my problems. When i turn the pump off then on again, the noise goes away but my pressure is still low. Could it be the gauge giving a faulty reading due to the heat?

It runs exacty the same unfortunatly.

...AND I STILL HAVE FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEMS!!! Ok, i redid my entire fuel system and have all kinds of pictures for a write up im working on...however, it still doesnt work correctly. My fuel pressure goes from the set pressure of 7 PSI to about 2 PSI after about 15 min of driving. Could i be experiencing vapor lock? Here are some pics of the proximities of my 1/2 aluminum fuel line and the steal braided hose to the exhaust. The drivers side header and the steal braded fuel lines in the engine compartment. You can see the aluminum tubing with the AN fittings and the exhaust to the left. On the far right you can see the fuel pressure regulator. Its a Mallory return style regulator thats recomended for the Mallory COMP 110 pump which i am using. YES, the vacuum port is pluged. Here is my setup. Could i be experiencing vapor lock?? Do i need some sort of heat shielding?? My engine compartment does get really hot, but the problem persists even if i have the hood up. Also, i notice that me fuel pump make excessive noise (sounds like a Holley pump) after i drve for a little while (10 min or so). When i power off the pump momentaraly, then re-power the pump, the noise is gone. Thanks

So i flushed the tank with water and cut off the outlet and return nipples that stick out on the side. Then i used a 1/2 inch drill and drilled out the tubes. I took the tank down to a shop with the original syphin tube and they are going to bend a new one that matches the old small tube out of 1/2 stainless tubing. Then weld it in with the appropriate AN fittings for about $70. This will result in the stock tank with bigger 1/2 inch internal lines. Then im going to take the tank to a radiator shop and have them boil it out, seal and coat it for another $100. In the end i will have a fresh new tank with the flow capacity for a very hungry V8 for a little under $200. I will have pictures comming.

I stuck this in the Chevy forum being that its chevy related but it should be here as well. I dont want a fuel cell. I just want the stock tank, but modified. I know people have done this...I want to have the tank "renu'd" with bigger 1/2 or 3/8 feed and return lines inside to replace the smaller 5/16 and 3/16 feed and return lines. I also want the tank to be cleaned and sealed. I was quoted $500 for this service and i hear people talking about it being done for much cheaper. I live in the California bay area...is there anyplace around here that is recomended? I have the tank removed and can drive it or ship it where ever i need to. I really dont feel like spending $500 when i have heard of it done for $200-$300. Any ideas? Thanks

ok, i dont know if this should go here or in the fuel delivery fourm, but i thought that would get better response being that this is for a SBC Z car. I dont want a fuel cell. I just want the stock tank, but modified. I know people have done this...I want to have the tank "renu'd" with bigger 1/2 or 3/8 feed and return lines inside to replace the smaller 5/16 and 3/16 feed and return lines. I also want the tank to be cleaned and sealed. I was quoted $500 for this service and i hear people talking about it being done for much cheaper. I live in the California bay area...is there anyplace around here that is recomended? I have the tank removed and can drive it or ship it where ever i need to. I really dont feel like spending $500 when i have heard of it done for $200-$300. Any ideas? Thanks

If you have a static charge and touch the car which is grounded, you will discharge this static charge and most likely create a spark. There was an individual who exited his vehical without discharging his potential static charge and started pumping gas into his car. He removed the pump nozzle and when he went to put the gas cap back on, he grounded himseld and created a spark, which ignited the fresh fuel fumes coming out of the tank and BOOM...game over. I have heard from a few of my fire fighting buddys that this is something they learn about. Now, interesting story. If you see those signs saying dont use a cell phone or turn off electronic devices while fueling...lol...its because this senario happened and the guy happened to be using an electronic device. So everyone jumped to the conclusion that electronic devices cause gas to cumbust...they dont. RF radio waves dont do it either. You could have a cell phone in an environment perfect for cumbustion, call it...and nothing will ever happen. If you saw this on MythBusters, you understand. I cant help but laugh when i see those sighs created by ignorant people.

http://groups.msn.com/Datsun280zClub/bigphils78280z.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=118&pgmarket=en-us