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About Marc280

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  • Birthday 12/31/1983

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    Sydney, Australia
  1. Hey fila, I haven't logged into HybridZ for ages but I've swapped a 1UZ into my 280zx so may be able to answer a couple of your questions. I don't know much about the auto transmissions as I used a manual. From memory the auto has its own ECU on some models and you need to get it inputs for speed. If you search for the wiring diagrams you should be able to see this. I'd recommend a manual even for a daily and there are a bunch of companies out there making adaptors or full conversion kits. You don't actually need that much to run the engine. Just the ECU and then figure ou
  2. I'm running 17x9 -13 on the front and a 245 tyre (without using coilovers). On the rear I've got 17x9.5 -19 and a 255 tyre. That did require rolling the guard lip. The rear had to be rolled pretty much flat to make sure it didn't rub. Also if you have the 'bumper strips' that run along the side of the car, the rear tyre will chew off the bit that goes into the wheel arch... There are some good pics of how these wheel look/fit in the Rota RB group buy thread. Here are a couple of pics of my car. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s861.photobucket.com/user/m
  3. I'm also running 17's. Rota RB's 17x9.5 in the rear and 17x9 up front. I have slightly lowered suspension and the guards did take a bit of rolling to get them to fit, but I think they look great on the car. There are quite a few pic around on the site with these wheels.
  4. Battery for the GoPro is here so I've taken the first video of it driving onto an onramp. The video is only short, but should give you some idea of what it sounds like at least (the video doesn't really do it justice as it sounds much better in person...) I've mostly sorted the vibration in the rear end. I saw a trick somewhere that suggested putting two hose clamps on the tailshft and then moving the bolts around at different points to see if it changes the vibrations. By doing this I was able to make the vibration better and worse, so it seemed like the tailshaft was the prob
  5. It's been a while since I updated this thread again, but since the last update I found that the repaired computer only worked a couple of times before going back to it's old annoying tricks. I figured that seeing as some of the caps had leaked quite badly there was a chance that the computer was damaged in some other way. So I ended up getting another computer and since replacing the computer all the problems described above went away. I've also managed to get the car through the 'engineering' process that is required here so it is officially 100% legal to drive on the road and register
  6. xale I have a thread on here that had a fair bit of detail showing how I've installed one in a 280zx which might help. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66680-my-1uz-280zx-swap/ One thing I would say is that if you're going to do it properly the costs that you have there now are only the beginning and it's all the little things that you have to put together that really end up costing the most. I picked up my half cut for $1000 and after selling of some of the bits from the half cut that would have been by far one of the cheapest bits of the build.... I don't want to
  7. Ok I think I've worked out what the issue is... Pulling codes from the ecu was a little tricky as the wires to the diagnostic plug are cut at the ecu, but I shorted Te1 to E1 at the ecu and then connected a test light to pin 6 of the 40 pin plug (the 'W' signal). When doing this to get the codes the light just stayed on. According to the lexls site this.indicates ecu problems which is what I was thinking maybe be the problem. So I pulled the ecu apart and found that 7 of 9 of the larger 'can' type capacitors were leaking pretty badly. I've seen that this can be a common problem, so I rea
  8. So I know it has been a while since the last update, but this is still moving along, but at the moment it feels like one step forward and two back.... It went it for the first 'engineering inspection' that is required for registration here and it came out with a list of things that they didn't like... these were - Wheels not allowed as they consider them too wide and the offset change it too much (max allowed increase is 25mm in wheel track) - Seats needed more padding around the head rest area (I've installed Cobra fixed back seats since the last update) - Rear seats and belt
  9. I've found pretty much the same thing with the door strikers, I ordered brand new ones from Nissan (didn't cost too much either) and bought part no 8057041L00 as described above. The didn't completely cure the problem but have made it much better. I think the next place that I will look is the hinges as some people have suggested.
  10. Thanks for the suggestions, as John mentioned it is a OBX (helical) style diff centre, so from what I can tell I don't think a limited slip additive will change much. I setup the diff as suggested in the link above, but as you can see there, people have installed the washers that give the diff the preload in so many different ways. Anyway the car is in for 'engineering' at the moment which we require for registration here and I should get it back by the weekend. Once I've got it I'll be pulling out the diff for an inspection and to set it up with less preload and we'll see how that goes.
  11. I've only just got my car back on the road after a long rebuild and engine swap (it's an 81 280zx) and as a part of the build I installed an R200 OBX centre. I had all new bearings put in it and the backlash etc setup by a driveline shop but it is chattering or more like banging and poping under tight turns at car park speeds. When driving in a straight line it seems to be fine and there are no abnormal noises. I replaced the bolts and washers with the rbryant kit and setup the belleville washers as described in on the page http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm Here is t
  12. Thanks for the replies, that made it a little easier! I wasn't expecting that to all be one piece.... Unfortunately after pulling back the weatherstripping I found this on the pillar which made getting everything off pretty tricky. There wasn't too much rust actually on the pillar under the trim, however around the around the T-Tops there is a litte more... It might not look too bad in the photos but I stripped them back and some of the spots have holed right through, so it looks like I'll be doing some rust repairs a little sooner than planned...
  13. I need to remove the windscreen to be able to fix some rust that is eating it's way back under the windscreen sealing. In the factory service manual, it says to just remove the pillar windscreen moulding. This might seem like a bit of a stupid question, but I can't seem to work out how to remove them. The top an bottom ones were easy enough to remove, but I can't get the pillar ones off. I searched but didn't come up with anything, so maybe I'm just a little slow in working this out If anyone can give me some tips or hints, that would be great!
  14. Ok I haven't been able to work on the car as much as I'd have liked since the last update as I've been away for work again, but I have managed to get the car a little closer to the rego/engineering stage. Here is a list of all the things I've been up to, including: installing new (upgraded) front brakes, relocated the battery to the boot with a circuit breaker and cut off switch, built a fan shroud for the thermofans, built an airbox, relocated the radiator overflow bottle, sealed up the gearstick surround, bought and fitted Rota wheels, rolled the guards, made up a fuse/relay box for
  15. Looking good! I'll be keeping an eye out for updates.
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