seth
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Posts posted by seth
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I am actually super interested in this too... I would like one of these sensors in my fuel rail to log the fuel pressure in my MS Extra.
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I went to aluminum when installed the VG trans. I don't have an exact weight, but i tell you it wasn't much...
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I have not done the 350 swap, but i am sure a little searching will go a long way.
When I swapped in my z32 transmission I used http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ they were recommended to me by a hotrodder I know around home. These guys were fast and knew what they were talking about, had my custom drive-shaft shipped in a few days.
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What RWD transmissions bolt up? IIRC, most of the Northstars are transverse, not longitudinal.
I have thought about this swap for some time... I like this motor. It started for me with mesurements to rwd my 95 Monte Carlo... Before I wrote it off that is
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16" CCW's
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My flares are ZG's molded in...
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Sounds like a similar problem to what I had... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115997
I ended up modifying the pivot for the clutch fork.
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Funny, My GF Loves my car but doesn't want one... but a really good friend's little sister saw my car this summer and loved it enough to buy her own 3 months later. Actually me and him drove it home for her.
Sadly I have driven her car more miles then i have driven mine
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I hear the new bosch =4 are good with the 4 tabs around the electrode, but I havent tried them. All I know abouT Spitfire is what I have experienced and witnessed from others.. all bad.
I put the Bosch +4 (they have 4 ground electrodes) into my BMW... They sucked, regretted it right away. I had bad misfires replaced plugs with some NGK's and it all went away...
But back on the splitfire topic, back in the 90's I had a lot of good luck with them in my 2 stroke MX bike. The fouled less often then any other plug that I tried at the time... But to be honest lately i have a hard time going from anything other then a NGK.
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I don't have a picture of it... but in exactly the same spot as Mike (2003z) installed his led's I mounted a LED marker light from a 18 wheeler. I found them at a trucker store. Mounted them well behind the grill so that you can't see them from the front without them on. Worked well so far.
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I am going to start off by saying that I am at my wit's end...
But here goes, I just finished dropping a Z32 transmission into my 260. After having the transmission apart and back together I was able to run through all the gears. I checked again when i installed my drive-shaft, all 5 gears and reverse. Then i had some spacing problems with the clutch, there is a thread about it, and i removed the transmission several times to fix that. Anyway now I only get get into 2nd 4rd and reverse! I can feel the gate of 3rd but it will not go in. It is almost like the gears are locked out!
To top it off the battery was mostly dead and it stalled and wouldn't start up at the end of my driveway last night... so today i am getting it back in the garage, if anyone has an idea or experience with this transmission i will take any ideas.
Thanks
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How does that car have a Borg and Warner in it?
If not...Do you want one?
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get that bad boy on the road b4 it starts snowing so u can get some seat time
lol too late, it is already
Soo sad -
Thanks I honestly had no idea what to search for...
I have a few of the throw out bearing's here, so I will give this a try.
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I am just bolting up my z32 transmission to my l28. With the Mazworks kit. I have also switched to a Tilton aluminum flywheel (225mm from the larger 2+2 version) My problem is that when the transmission is bolted up the clutch fork is almost completely extended (think like when you have the petal to the floor). Essentially there is only 1/8th inch left (after the release bearing is on the pressure plate fingers) before the fork hits the transmission.
To give you an idea of how much play I have
So my first idea was that the pressure plate has the fingers too far in. So after I pulled the trans out again...
Now the only ideas i can come up with is either go back to the larger, heavy stock flywheel and pressure plate or shim out the pivot ball...
Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated.
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I just use the stock cylinder head temp sensor. use easy therm to configure MS&SE for it. although its not that far off from the GM unit.
I did the same
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can someone sticky this!!
I second that
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This is the guy that I got my spacers from... http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZwheeladapters
Well designed they have tapered lugs to ensure that the spacer is centered on the hub. And you just buy them and tell him how wide you want to go. I have a .75 inch in the rear and 1 inch in the front but i know that he will go to 4 inch wide.
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I just can't find the picture... I am starting to think that it was one of the files that I lost on when my HDD crashed... Sorry.
I would assume that that spring is there to do something. If you wanted to remove the handle completely I would just add a spring somewhere else to keep the tension on that linkage.
If someone posts a pic of the inside of the door i can draw on it to show you where I mounted everything and how I extended the leaver. If you need that is.
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They sure look like CCW's to me... Because that's what mine is rolling on (Diff. offset though)
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Here is mine... These are the MSA skirts (SHO-Z is right they suck all twisted and such) and ZG flares all molded in.
Now if you saw it all before paint you would see the ton of cutting to both flare and skirt. They don't fit easily...
http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=10062&cat=500
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I on my 260 I pulled the rod that went up to the outside handles completely. But I still use my inside handles. I am assuming that the spring there is the one you are talking about. If so I am still using it, for me it is more convenient to use the inside handle. To explain further (as I am still not sure where these dammed pictures are) the cable that is used to pull the latch is parallel with the lower rod (for the inside handle)
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I can't find my pictures at the moment... but what I did was mount the actuators at the bottom middle of the door (Bolted right below the lowest hole in the inner door skin)
The 1st time I hooked it all up i did it directly to the pivot point the inner door handle is hooked up to (where the movment is changed from front/back to Up/down). This didn't really work because of the power it took to open the door in the closed position wasn't enough to relyably open the door all the way. So I welded some threaded rod to the end of the pivot and hooked the actuator to that (Really only adding an inch to the bottom of the pivot)... Man I hope this makes some sense...I will go looking for my pictures
Edited for clarity
Soo sad
slave cylinder moves but clutch not disengage
in Drivetrain
Posted
I ended up with a similar problem when I installed my Z32 Transmission. I ended up moving the pivot point for the clutch fork closer to the flywheel.
My Pressure plate / Flywheel combo was thiner then factory. Works now...