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240Zed

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Posts posted by 240Zed

  1. hey guys

     

    i wanted to know if i purchased a whole R32 GTR could you convert the whole running gear and motor from the GTR to fit a 240z meaning you would have active 4WD?? and be able to switch to rear will drive??

     

    has this been done if so where can i find a read up??

     

    and what sort of $$ would i be looking at in labour to do this?

     

    cause i can get a car fairly cheap running but cant be registered so parts are useable.

     

    by the way im Australia

     

    peter

     

    Yep some mob in Japan (Komy) did it way back around 2002:

    http://www.komycars.jp/

    http://www.komycars.jp/drag/z/z.html

     

    There was a magazine article about it, but its all in Japanese.

  2. I've also thought about this.

     

    First obstacle is to find a motor the right shape. Most are the wrong shape, being barrel shape motors, not pancake style.

     

    If you could find an electric motor to sandwich between the petrol motor and the gearbox. You'd probably want some sort of fancy clutch arrangement so that you could drive on electricity alone, petrol alone, or both at the same time.

     

    If the pancake motor had a hollow drive shaft tube that the petrol motors drive shaft went through, and some fancy clutch that worked as described above you'd be half way there.

     

    When decelerating/braking you'd want the petrol engine clutch to disengage, and the electric motor clutch to engage automatically for regenerative braking.

     

    You wouldn't want the gas motor to charge the batteries via the electric motor, otherwise there goes your fuel savings (If you're doing it for extra acceleration, just get a turbo and save yourself a world of pain).

     

    I'd ditch the 6 and use a 4 cyl engine, like an SR20.

     

    It all sounds very complicated, and complicated = expensive.

     

    You'd also need about 10 or 12 batteries to run the electric motor.

     

    I dont think its worth the effort.

     

    I have a more practical idea. You get a car like an 86-88 Mazda 323 AWD (not sure what they were called in the USA). They are all wheel drive. Transverse mounted engine in the front, with driveshafts from the gearbox to drive the front wheels, and a prop shaft to the rear diff.

     

    You pull the awd engine/gearbox out, and swap it with a Front wheel drive engine from the lesser model. This frees up the rear diff to be driven by an electric motor, which you can mount near the front of the car in the transmission tunnel. then you just need to find somewhere to put 12 or so batteries, and make some sort of custom controller to control how the engines will work together.

     

    That gives you an electric car you can drive around on 100% electricity until you run out of power, then you can switch over to the gas motor to give you the extended range, and the ability to fuel up at a gas station.

  3.  

    The #153 on ebay is possibly a fake, since there is another owner of a scarab that claims his car is the original #153, and he says he has the paperwork to prove it.

     

    Here is his number #153

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3128743

     

    He posted on classiczcars about it:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31483

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=31477

  4. But now, at car cruises, when guys see the "Hybrid Z--When Stock Just Don't Cut It" decal on the rear-quarter window of my 240Z/406, they ask "Um...does this thing have an electric motor too?" Sheeeesh.

     

    Just tell them "Yes, it has 4 electric motors"......

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    ....one for the fan blower, one for the wipers, one for the wiper water squirter, and one to start the engine.

  5. Ok, I've done a some more investigating and found out which website it is from. Its an internet z site, not a club site.

     

    Scary thing is that alot of people on this website would probably on the list.

     

    I recognise a few names of the 7500+ members details listed from here, such as [maybe I better not say names, just pretend I said your name] all with their home addresses and the cars they have.

     

    I'll be contacting them right now to have the list deleted.

  6. I was doing a search on google for something z related and found a database listing of some other z site or club member list.

     

    I don't know what site/club it's from, and I'm not going to post a link to it for obvious reasons, but it looks like an America site or z club and probably has alot of members details of people that visit this site also.

     

    The scary part is it has members names, home addresses, email addresses, and what sort of Z car they own.

     

    So if your part of a Z club, or forum get in contact with the website administrator and make sure there are no text dumps of the database on the webserver that people could access.

  7. I'll state this here as to the reason. We did not want to clutter this forum up with nice paint, great job, what rims are those,etc. The OP can add to his thread as he works on his project only. If you have a question/comment about a part of the build you can go to the specific forum it pertains to and link to the Project Forum's thread.

     

    LARRY

     

    Ah ok. question like "How much weight did the CF roof save?" ;P jokes.

     

    I'll send him a PM instead.

     

    thanks for the answers.

  8. I've tried a few times to post in this thread

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126662

     

    but when I try, I get the message:

     

    240Zed, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

     

    1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?

     

    2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

     

     

    Can an admin take a look, and fix whatever the problem is?

     

    Cheers.

  9. Its not a turbo motor. P90 heads were fitted to late model 280zx's in Australia, and as you know they were all NA, no turbo 280zx's were sold in Oz. I have a 240K Skyline with a P90/F54 carbie motor which I think is probably from a 280C or a Patrol.

     

    It wouldn't have turbo injectors.

  10. Okay I just talked to the guy. He claims to be a datsun Z person. He said this is a competition datsun rear and that it is a H190. He said all the competition rear ends from datsun were H rears and he never heard of a R190. So who knows. He says this thing was from a race guy that only raced Z cars. I have looked at it put not close. I do know it didnt look like anything special but it did seem to be a locker type rear. Just a quick question. I noticed when my 280 is on jack stands and i turn the right rear tire it doesnt turn anything. Driveshaft doesnt turn and it doesnt turn the other wheel. I also tried to see what the gear ratio was by counting the driveshaft revolutions with one full revolution of the tire. It did not work. I have done this with ford 8.8 rears all the time. All of this is what made me wonder if my R200 was hurt.

     

    He must be confused or misinformed.

     

    H190 are live axle diffs. R190 are IRS Diffs. R190 were fitted to cars like the Z432R and the works rally 240Z cars. Which is probably why he's never heard of them.

     

    H190's were fitted to cars like the Cedric, Stanza, Silvia (200SX) etc.

     

    H190 will not fit in a Z, and if he got it from a Z guy that only raced Z's then its probably unused, unless he used to race other datsuns.

  11. Problem might be in the starting switch on the back of the ignition key lock.

     

    My 240 would only start when the key was turned slowly to the on position.

     

    When it started cranking you stopped turning the key. of you kept turning it all the way to on, it would stop again. If you turned it fast all the way to on, it would just click, like you'd flicked the key on and off really quickly.

     

    Now that I think of it I think I had a loose/ broken solder connection on the back of the switch. I seem to remember having to resolder the red/white wire back onto the key switch.

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