dpuma8

I think I might need an install kit then.........

If MS can control spark and such, then what is the reason for going with the Ford EDIS? I want to dump my money into MS and other components but I do not understand why people are using the EDIS and having to machine the CAS when they could use the stock distributor. Help?

Most of my gauges do not work in my car. I have an L28ET in the 1975 Z so I am wondering what gauges you feel are important to have for a turbo car. What size gauges will our cars take?

Yes! That sounds like a great idea. Can you tell me the location?

AWESOME! Perfect answer. Anymore about Megasquirt or anything else? I would like to do most of it except the wiring looks a little scary. The car ran fine but there were wires that weren't connected which worried me.....

I am looking for prices because I don't know what is an appropriate price for a lot of this and I don't want to over pay. So I was hoping you could break down the order and cost I should go with. For example, which MS should I get and how much will it cost? I am in Yuba City so if you have any recommendations for tranny work or block prep in the area then that would be great!

I have a 1975 with a L28ET in my car that I am planning on rebuilding. I have a $7,200 0% on purchases credit card until next December. Here is what needs to be done~ -P90A head rebuilt by shop -Brakes work awesome but they don't catch until the pedal is nearly to the floor -Lose wires everywhere -Stock springs were cut too much and car rubs when going over smaller bumps. -Transmission grinds in 3rd and 4th -When pushing the car hard, the cabin fills with exhaust -Gas gauge and spedometer don't work I would like the ability to have 200 HP but can be adjusted to much higher than that. So with the limited information I have posted, how should I spend my money and in what order? I want to upgrade the turbo, get Megasquirt, and Ford EDIS but I can't figure out which is best for my street car. I also am wondering about the P90A. Is the P90 THAT much better than the P90A? My engine does not have a turbo oil pan. Do I really need one? Disclaimer**** - I am a super nerdy tight ass accountant who will not be getting into any financial trouble over this credit card and it will be paid off months before December*********

The pistons said P 90.

I am not sure what the pcv valve is. I do have an intercooler and piping with a bov. The car only ran 5 psi. So do I need a different manifold or is mine a desirable one? I want something that won't limit power if I decided to do more boost

Here is the intake manifold

Well, my car was fine until it started to run really crappy. I did a compression test and some cylinders were at 125 psi and some were 95 psi. I pulled the spark plugs and all of them had oil on them. Interesting point on forged pistons masking problems. I was planning on running those but now I am having second thoughts........

This is why I am confused. The block says F54 and the head says P90A. When I bought the car from Voltron_Boi, he said it was an L28ET which actually is a L28E with a Turbo. The turbo placement is exactly like real L28ET. I have the Haynes manual and the diagrams look the same. I am rebuilding the engine anyways and will be buying forged pistons. So that I don't have any problems in the future, is there anything I would need to look out for? I see that the L28ET oil pump was stronger in the L28ET so now I know I need to upgrade that. Would there be anything else? Is there a way to check to see if the ECU is NA or T? 1) Black injectors 2) Block code is F54 3) I will post the intake pic when I get home tonight 4) Yes it says turbo and the code is P90A I will post pics tonight. Thanks for your help

So I am pretty sure that the L28ET engines had dished pistons so I was pretty surprised to see the flats. I have a F54 block and P90A head with a N42 intake manifold. I bought rebuild parts for a L28ET and from what I am reading, the only difference between the F54 block is the pistons inside. So to make mine a true L28ET, what modifications do I need to make? Do I need to upgrade fuel lines, injectors, ECU, and possiblt exhaust or intake manifold? Anything else or am I fine? The pistons have "90" on them.

I live near Sacramento, CA and am looking for a p90 head with cam. Text me at 530-617-2326

The car has an aftermarket clutch and as far as the throttle body, I am not sure if it is stock or not. Yes it is Driver Error and I am not saying it is equipment failure or anything, I just wanted to know if I could adjust something to make it more user friendly. So I take this as a 'no'?

I have a 280Z with a L28et swap in it and the gas pedal is ridiculously sensitive and I can't get used to it. I get stress knots in my neck from driving in stop and go situations. It is just way too sensitive. Is there a way to adjust gas pedal sensitivity to make the car more drivable?

I have owned the car for a few weeks now and I never have really done any car repairing before but I am trying. I don't know a whole lot so that is why I ask these questions just to get a good enough guide into the right direction. I haven't checked the compression yet. The compression tester is in the mail from amazon.com. When I get it, I will do a compression test though. The car felt fine before. It just feels like there isn't really any gas getting to the engine but I guess I will know when I test it. The fuel filter in the car had a tuna can top to it and then it goes into a cone almost with an outlet. With the new fuel filter, I put it in the same way with the tuna can like top on top and reconnected the fuel lines. There were no leaks anywhere. It just won't start now. When I first tried the car, you had to feather the gas pedal a bit to start the car and keep it alive for the first 5 seconds. After that the car ran strong and never turned off until I got these fuel issues. I was thinking of trying to start it a bit and then take off a line to the fuel pressure regulator. I figured if gas came out of a line then my fuel filter was installed correctly and then it might be my injectors, spark plugs, or fuel pressure regulator. Would this be a good idea to do?

Alright!! I am going cheap and trying to figure out what the problem is so I changed the fuel filter (Which was the original one from 1983) but now the car doesn't start at all now. So I do have some restriction somewhere so I spent $70 on a fuel pressure regulator (This is original as well). Would the next cost effective, logical choice be to change that or go somewhere else? When I turn the ignition on, I do hear the fuel pump turning on.

Absolutely doesn't work. Any other ideas?

No, I don't have good weatherstripping and maybe I can do that.............once I figure out someone who can instruct me on how to open the driver's door. I can't get the latch to lift up so that I can open the door! How do I get the door open?

I rolled down my windows the other day and drove to the gas station. When I tried to open the door, it wouldn't open even though the door latch is connected. I ripped the door panel off and everything seems fine except that no matter how hard I pull the handle, the mechanism inside the door doesn't turn enough to be able to open the door. There are no car locks on my car so how do I get this door open? Is there a great fix for this? I already sprayed WD40 in the joints. My passenger door is similar. I have to pull the handle and use my shoulder to open it.

My door has no locks on it but I closed the door last night and it won't open anymore. The latch on the inside still feels like it is connected but I can't open the door. How do I fix this?

I did try to do research but what has me confused is that the car idles fine WITHOUT white smoke. Once I drive and then let it idle again, the engine barely stays alive and I get visible but not too thick white smoke out the back. I would think that if the car started in this bad condition, then it would make more sense to me. So could a blown head gasket still be a cause for okay idle and then rough idle after I drive?

Crap! It is getting worse. How do I check for this? Drop the gas tank? There are no unique or new sounds but how do I know if it is time for a rebuild?

Lately when I turn on my car, the idle is good and no smoke coming out of the back. When I start coasting at 20 mph, the gas pedal becomes extremely jerky when you press it in. It only drives right when you try to accelerate harder and then the car feels fine. When I do push it though, the A/F gauge which does not seem to work because 70% of the lights on it will be flashing but it lights up in the Lean area. At idle, the engine sounds like it is fighting to stay alive but it never turns off. The exhaust smell is very strong and there is whitish exhaust coming out of it. Could any of these be the problem? -The gas gauge doesn't work so I am not sure if I am low on gas or not. Would low gas do this? -My oil pressure ranges between 20 and 45 when driving. When idling, it is about 9. -When I received the car, it had no oil in it. I added 20/50 oil to it. Too thick of oil? There are no oil leaks out of the engine. -I have the P90A head and it ticks a lot. I will post a video after work