dpuma8

I had a Grant Steering wheel on my Datsun I did not like so i bought a new one. The nut that holds the steering kit down is now stuck halfway down the threading. So now my steering wheel moved forward and back a few millimeters now and it is annoying. I cant move the nut at all. I have seen online how to rethread a hole but what about in my situation? Can a machine shop fix this? What are options? This is for a 1975 280z

The third option from the bottom isn't it?

I want to order a GT3076R .63 a/r with a T3 inlet flange and V Band outlet. There is an "option for compressor housings" and I do not know which one I should be using. My exhaust manifold has a T3 external waste gate flange welded on. Here is the link for the turbo I am ready to order. Any other tips or external wastegate recommendations along with size? http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005

So it sounds like Tokico is not a good option is they might pull out of the market. What is the next best option and who can make a custom coilover kit? I was going to buy the TTT ones but they use Tokico. Arizona apparently is tough to adjust and the shocks are unknown, McKinnley kit is bolt in but the parts are lower quality, and Beta's kit is way more suspension than I need. Who else can go an all in one kit?

I have a dumb question maybe you guys can help me with since I have been going back and forth over which coilovers I should get. Part of me says to go with McKinney since they are easier to adjust but then I am reading they are low quality parts. AZC is harder to adjust and the shocks are unknown. I am not much of a mechanic but I do want my car lower with some performance. Can the McKinney struts be changed to something better? Is it a lot of work to adjust the height with the AZC coilovers? Are there any places that will put together coilovers according to customer requests for a decent price?

Still haven't decided on a turbo but it is between a 3071R and a 3076R in either a .63 or .82 A/R. What would goldilocks say about these trims? What if I have my head ported?

Ugh.....I am sorry guys but I can't figure out the best way to go. I will mostly just be playing with it on the freeway. i looked up Schneider Cams and they have three choices. I do not care so much about drag racing. http://schneidercams.com/turbocharged-3.aspx I am hoping for a suggestion on exactly what I should get for the most fun for a freeway car. So 2800-7000 RPM turbo cam with a GT35R a/r .82? Or 2000-6400 RPM turbo cam with a GT3071 a/r .82?

Horsepower by Gerolamy is an hour away from me so I am assuming this is the Nathan from BCG that you are talking about. He said the work alone is about $3300 for doing everything. I am looking for a cam and will go with your GT30 recommendations. Thanks!

I don't have a stock turbo. I have a T25 and it came with the car when I bought it but I will check it when I get home. I am looking for 300 hp with room to grow if needed. So which is best? GT30 or GT35? Not sure what kind of port work is needed. I read a thread with Tony D commenting about how a turbo grind and port does wonders so I am trying to follow what he said. Any other recommendations???

I have had my car in pieces for a few years now and I am really itching to get it done fast so I am opening the wallet to get a lot of the work done. I am hoping for some advice on how to go with my build and how much it will cost for the features you recommend. I am not a track racer but like everyone else, I would like something very fast but reliable. I am using Megasquirt Links would greatly be appreciated 1) I am reading about an isky turbo cam. Is there a specific grind that is recommended? How much and where can I get it? 2) Many people have the T3/T04e turbocharger and I have seen some talk about the GT series but I cannot find many that have those turbos on a L28et. I am looking for ease of installing and do not want a lot of fabrication done or fitment problems. Are the GT turbos the way to go or is it overkill? I have a wastegate already welded on and had I think a T25 turbo on it (I will check when I get home). With your choice, which wastegate actuator is needed for your recommendation? 3) How much head porting is needed and does anyone have good recommendations of a person or place who can do it?

I am planning on rebuilding my l28et myself but there aren't any standard bore pistons. Is it okay to reuse older pistons and change the rings? Is there a way to know if a piston is good or not? Since all the pistons are larger than standard bore, is everyone just boring their block out?

I have an L28 on a pallet in the garage. I am trying to take off the flywheel to make room for the new Fidanza wheel.The problem I am having is the crankbolt is loose so I need to deal with that as well now. So how can I get my crank bolt on tight AND get my old flywheel off?

I have an L28et going in and it will more than likely be under 250HP but I of course want to leave the door open for more horsepower possibly later on. If you can point one to me and any other tips then that would be great!

I have a clutch from Clutch Masters Industries that came with parts I bought. I will never go to the track and I am looking for something that will be great for the street and be smooth. I went to the clutch master website but I could not find my clutch on their website. So here is the picture and hopefully someone can identify if it is a street or track clutch. Second, if it is the wrong clutch for me, what do you think about ebay clutches?

No. there is not a problem with doing it their way. I am trying to learn to be a car guy and I wasn't sure if the combination switch along with ground switched items meant I had to do something different. SO just follow what EZ says to do and it will work?

I do not understand how to wire up the brake lights along with the running lights with the EZ wiring kit. The kit has a brown wire labeled Tail Park Lights and off of the brown wire is the connection to the license plate light. To accomodate the rear side markers, I soldered extra wires into my brown wire so that those will be connected. Now the problem is the only wire I have left to do is the Orange Third Brake Light wire. Where is the brake light wires in the harness I need to plug in? Am I adding a second wire off of the Third Brake light and then connecting those to my rear brake lights? How does this work?

I bought the non GPS speedo from speedhut but I have the old speedo cable. How do I make this all work?

Sure could use some help on this

I habe the EZ wiring harness and I know the Z cars have ground switched high beams and turn signals. Is there anything special we have to do to make this work with ground switched items? Or is it pretty much plug and play? What about adding a relay for the headlights? I see there is a diagram on Atlantic Z on adding a relay so would wiring the headlights to EZ's diagram change the way I need to add the headlight relay?

Looking for something a little bit closer to my location. Anyone else?

Also, I see my hazard switch has different colors. I have Red/Blue Black Green Green/Black Green/Red Green/White Green Do all of these need to be connected to work? Can anyone identify these?

Also, I see my hazard switch has different colors. I have Red/Blue Black Green Green/Black Green/Red Green/White Green

I have taken a few combination switches from a few Z cars and they are all the same so I am very confused. None of the colored wires from the wiring diagrams match the wires on the combination switch so I am hoping someone can check their old notes to help me a bit. I am mainly trying to figure out the turn signal/high beams combination switch. On the left, I have Bundle #1 Black (Connects to the right combination switch) Red/Yellow Red/White Green/Black and then Bundle #2 Green/Black WhiteBlack White/Red Which wire goes where? Also, is there a way to rewire it so that everything does not have to go through the hazard switch?

I am looking for a non grinding 5 speed transmission for my L28 Datsun. Please text message me at 530-617-2326. I am near Sacramento

I bought a P90 head and I noticed that there were some shiny scuff or scrape marks on it. Is this anything to worry about? Does it change anything for me when I put it on the car? They are on multiple areas.