dpuma8

Dang! Nothing?

I wanted to do the 240sx transmission swap to my L28et and I read about swapping the FS5 one in with modifications. Someone on Craigslist is selling a 240sx transmission but it says TA-71B on it. I haven't read anywhere about this transmission. Is this the same transmission as the FS5? Can I swap this one into my car?

I have flares so I am assuming I have extra room, correct?

I am missing some taillight bulb housings or sockets out of my 280z. Anyone have some extras for sale?

I have read the FAQ on the stages of the suspension and I am going for Stage 1. I drive the car on the freeway mostly and never see a track. I bought my 280z with cut stock springs that rub the wheels all the time so I want to do things right. The car is on 15x8 wheels and really low. I want the car lowered but not slammed. I have been reading about strut sectioning but I am not sure i need it because my car never had a stock suspension before so I can't compare. So in the FAQ, it gave us the stages but pictures would have been helpful. I am worried that I will spend $500 and then realize I should have spent the extra money on coilovers and be headache free since the height is adjustable. Any suggestions?

Sorry, I did mean the FS5W71C transmission. I am just trying to figure out if there are any external differences between the 240SX and the Z31 NA Transmission. There is a deal locally for a VG30e with the FS5W71C attached to it for $150 so I was thinking of picking it up and putting it into my 280Z. I know for sure that the FS5W71C transmission from a KA24 engine will fit to the L series with some small modifications. Will a FS5W71C from a VG30 engine also require the same minimal adjustments?

I am attempting to do the FC5W71C swap into my Z car. I see that the 300zx also had the same transmission so is there any difference between the transmissions? All the notes I see for swapping the FC5w71C transmission mention the 240sx without any mention of the NA 300zx. Will the 300zx transmission work exactly like the 240sx transmission?

I am missing a few tail light housings that twist and lock into place. I have a 280Z but do any other years fit the same? I am having a hard time finding this whole part for my car

I am getting pretty overwhelmed when trying to wire my car. I am working on the back section of the car and I have everything wired up. When looking at a different section, I found "Left Front Brake" wire. What does this mean and where does it go? I read that the headlights should have some relays on it. Am I putting 2 relays on each headlight? One for high beam and another for the low beam for each side? What about the orange side markers? What wire am I connecting to those in the front and back side? I will have more questions as I get further.

Right on! Thanks a ton for the replies! I did buy 3/8 line from JEGS with a flaring tool and the line was considerably bigger than stock. If I knew the fixes were mostly were for the 240Z, then I could have saved some money but oh well!

I am looking for maybe 300 hp. I have a Carter low pressure pump feeding into a surge tank and then the Walbro high pressure pump feeding the injectors. I am not going to go crazy on my build since it will never see a track. I am still not clear on if I would need to have bigger fitting welded on my tank for 300hp.

I have my car in pieces right now so I am planning on building for the future. Before I tore it apart, the engine was stock and I did not have fuel starvation issues. The 3/8 hard fuel line is already under the car. I don't want to do AN fittings if it is not necessary or that much of an improvement over regular fuel hose. I want a higher HP car. Do I need to modify the stock gas tank inlets/outlets for the larger fuel line I will be running?

I have the 3/8 hardline under my car right now and I have seen that some people have welded in 6 AN fittings into the gas tank. Is this necessary to do or recommended? I have a surge tank mounted. Is AN fittings and braided fuel line a good upgrade or is it mostly for show? I don't care to have braided fuel lines if rubber lines is good enough. Any thoughts about it?

I have 3/8 hard fuel line I will be attempting to put in this weekend. I was planning on putting both feed and return line under my car but if having the surge tank in the engine bay with the return line from the injectors directly to the surge tank is acceptable, then I would rather do that because then I could run one hardline under the car rather than two of them. Or should I still have another line still returning from the surge tank to the gas tank. The car will be stock for now and this is the surge tank I am using except the 1 QT version. http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Accumulator+Fuel+filter&x=0&y=0

$200?!!!!! Wow. I guess I am just going to have to have lumpy gas lines under my car...

I bought 20' of hard fuel line from Summit racing and I am having a tough time trying to straighten it all out. Any tips someone can give me in order to get it straightened?

What about the return line? gravity doesn't matter when returning from the surge tank to the gas tank?

I am trying to figure out where to mount my surge tank and I am wondering if the surge tank height matters in regards to the return line. I am planning on putting the surge tank next to the gas tank so does the return line from the surge tank need to be downward sloping to the gas tank? Or does it not matter?

I am buying a Megasquirt 2 3.57 from someone off of craigslist who says he has a receipt of the purchase from diyautotune. The unit is not in the seller's car so to prevent me from getting ripped off, is there an easy way to check to make sure that the unit isn't fried or not working? What should I look for when buying a used megasquirt complete?

Is there a way to test the Megasquirt unit to make sure I am not getting ripped off?

-L28et engine with P90A head -Wideband O2 with gauge -Megasquirt 2 3.57 with relay board and harness -240 SX throttle body -14mm 440cc injectors -Fuel rail -Walbro Fuel pump -12 gallon fuel cell -Full intercooler and piping -New clutchmaster Clutch -Leaky T3/T04 turbo for $1000. I have a L28et in pieces and another I got for $60 that looks like it might be poorly put together. I already have intercooler piping, Walbro fuel pump, newer clutch, P90 and P90a head, and a 11mm pallnet fuel rail. As you can see, I have some of these parts already. Is this a good deal? Will these extra parts be fairly easy to sell?

I have looked online a bit and I can't get a straight answer as to how to get the 4 bolts loose. What size wrench do you use and how did you hold the nut in the back? I don't have any room to get to the back. Any advice on how to get into these tight spots?

Yes? No?

So would the urethane ones replace the $214 ones I found? Or does the rubber one need to fit into that urethane camber kit? I have looked all over this forum and read all the threads in the FAQs section. I just need a little more clarification.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01C02/23-4382 $214.95? Ouch. Would I still need to do this if I upgraded my suspension?