dpuma8

Dang! How much are you talking about for the rebuild kit? I was hoping to get it rebuilt and then never have to worry about it again but I guess not....

Yep, no grinding in reverse.

Not yet until this weekend. I hope bleeding the clutch is the problem but 1st, 2nd, and 5th work perfectly. It is just 3rd and 4th that I have problems with. So Bleeding the clutch might make this transmission near perfect? He also said something about turning the drive shaft by hand but I am not familiar with this.

I would like to know as well since I bought this car from Voltron_Boi. He said the clutch needed to be bled but I guess this isn't the deal. SO what can I do to fix the grinding problem in 3rd and 4th in my 1975 280Z with a 280ZX Borg T-5 Tranny?

Alright! Thanks a ton. I will try that tonight

Well, I bought a car from another member here and he failed to mention that I have to unplug the positive cable when I am done with the car for the night otherwise it will run out of juice. So how it is now, I unplug the positive overnight and then put it back on and the car will start fine. Last night I went for a drive and the headlights were very dim. I am very new to fixing old cars. The battery is pretty new so is this an alternator problem or is something sucking the battery juice overnight? If there is something doing this, how do I test to see what is draining my battery?

6) Looks like the seller didn't tell me that the battery goes dead until he left. He said that at night, the battery needs to be unplugged. What could be the problem?

I just recently bought this car from Voltron_Boi and I am pretty excited http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94348-1975-280z-with-l28et-swap/ I have a few questions since I can't seem to find concrete enough answers by doing a search. 1) The car comes with the act extreme 6 puck disc and pressure plate. When I shift through the gears, it is pretty rough through the gears like it slams into gear and then takes off. IS this normal with a performance clutch? I haven't had a car with an upgraded clutch before. 2) It is hard to shift into gears. It will grind sometimes but just overall is hard to get in there. Voltron said to bleed the tranny and it will be fine. Is there anything else I should look out for? 3) The car is missing door locks and I see that each lock is surprisingly $135+ (I thought it would be like $20). Does the lock have to be 280Z specific or can a locksmith put some universal lock in for much cheaper that will work with my ignition key? If it is possible, how much should I expect to pay? 4) The brakes push all the way to the floor and then the brake is really touchy. If the brakes work well but the pedal goes to the floor, is there something wrong with it or need to be fixed? 5) The car sits really low and rubs the fenders. You can turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and then the front rubs on the fender. The springs are cut so I would like to do some coilovers or some combo that allows me to adjust ride height. I haven't seen any posts for coilovers so doesthat mean there aren't any direct bolt ons?

I am looking for a L28ET or V8 Datsun Z with a straight body, no rust, good transmission, and with a R200. I will be using this as a daily driver so it definitely needs to be a reliable car. I live near Sacramento but will travel anywhere in the state to find the perfect Z for me. 240, 260, or 280 works for me. Email me at dpuma8@mail.com. Pictures are nice but a walk around and driving clip on youtube would be even better. As far as price, it depends on what you have and I will spend up to $15,000 for the right car.

Here are the pictures for it http://s587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/vangpheej/ He said that he has a spare transmission that works but I don't really have the equipment to swap out a transmission

Thanks for the replies. I looked at the common rust areas and I didn't see any rust. He said it was taken care of and it did look pretty good. I didn't see a spec anywhere. Sales are a little tough to monitor because there aren't any swapped ones like this so it is a little difficult for me to tell. So $5,000 for a nice Z? Would a rust free, straight body, strong L28ET with a bad transmission and cut springs considered a $5,000 car? If not, how much would make it worth it to you?

I looked at a 280Z today but I am not completely sure about if some details are major or not too much of a problem. The car I looked at had a L28ET and it was pretty quick. The problems I am wondering about is there was a gas smell in the car but there were no leaks, the ride was a little rough since the springs were cut, brake pedal had to be pushed to the floor, the gas pedal was extremely touchy, and the transmission was grinding in the 3rd and 4th gear. So my dilemma is that I did really like the car but I don't want to get into something that initially costs $5,000 but in the end when these items are fixed or adjusted, it costs $10,000 when I could have bought more of a car for $10,000. So what are some good guidelines for buying an old car like a Z? Any links or other advice? Do these problems sound significant or not so bad?

I have cash in hand and live near Sacramento so if you have anything that is reliable and quick, please let me know.

Thank you Zedman, that answer was perfect. You are the man.

Can anyone elaborate on their answer more? I don't know anyone who has a welded differential to ride in. One person said that it isn't good for my kind of driving. Why is that? Is it dangerous? I read somewhere that a problem with a welded differential is that when you turn at low speeds, the ride will be really rough because both wheels are spinning at the same speed making the car hop a little. Anymore information would be great because this car looks great but that is the only thing holding me back.

I am checking out some Datsun Z cars to buy and one of them lists a welded rear differential as a modification. I did a search here and I couldn't find anything really. When I looked online, I read in some forums that a welded rear diff is great for people who drift their cars or some like it for off roading in their truck. I read that it affects drivability and wears out tires at low speeds. I intend on getting a weekend cruiser and maybe do a few track runs but that pretty much is it. Can you please tell me the advantages/disadvantages of a welded diff? Based on how I will use my car and my LS engine transplant goal, is this modification one to avoid?

I have more money saved and still looking!

I have enough for a LS Z. And still saving more each month

I emailed everyone and stil waiting. Anyone else? I seriously have cash waiting!

$20,000 is about twice as expensive as what I wanted to spend. Looking for something that is a daily driver and I won't have problems with.

I live near Sacramento, CA and I am looking for either a LS1 or a turbo 240Z. I am not much of a mechanic so I am looking for something that is a daily driver and fast. I have plenty of cash in hand for the right car, so go ahead and email me at dpuma8@mail.com. My name is Dom.

I am looking for something that is pretty complete and a daily driver. I have cash in hand waiting.....