voltron_boi

Hey miles, does the push rod from the 79-80 280zx booster need to be adjust too, if i decide to put the wilwood master cylinder onto the booster? I remember seeing a post saying that if plan on using a 15/16 280zx master cylinder onto a 280z booster, the push rod will also need to be adjust. If I can put the wilwood master cylinder onto the 280zx booster without adjusting it then, I rather go with the 280zx because its much bigger. Inputs?

I decide to ditch the 7/8 and just went ahead and order a wilwood master cylinder (260-8794) instead. I don't really get the part where they mention about adjusting booster pushrod. This is new to me and will be my first time attempting it. Is there a special tool needed to measure the rod length, plus how do you even adjust the pushrod out and in to get the right length for the wilwood master cylinder?

Quick question, my 280zx 15/16 master cylinder just went out on me and I have a spare 7/8 280z master cylinder that I can use. The question is, does the 7/8 have check valve in them, on both front and back? how do I take it out, because I already use a 17mm wrench and unbolt the bolt from underneath, and for some reason it isn't falling out. Btw, I have a rear 240sx rear disc brake conversion and toyota 4x4 front brakes.

I want these too, I second if anyone else is selling

My cousin have a 240z and he doesn't like his sun roof, his freind has a 240z that he longer need. He wants to know what's the best way to removing the sun roof. Should he patch or should he just cut the one that his friend has.

i have a greddy bov. pm me if intrested.

Thinking bout selling mine. Mine are brand new and is mounting on some used tires. Pm me if your interested!!

Wow, drolls

Any update on the fiberglass bumpers to chrome?

I have one, message me.

I was able to locate it after going through the troubleshoot tab section. Mine looks a bit different then the above. I was just wondering ZT-R, did you also have to do this to start ur car, because I haven't touch this section yet.

When u install yours did you do this? http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20346.0;attach=6108 I try looking for that tab on the laptop, but couldn't locate it. If you did, can u tell me how? If that doesn't work then competent tuner it is.

That was done and still no start. Lock the btdc at 15 degree, and had my freind crank. I set it at 0 while I use a timing light, and started to go untill it reach 15 degree on the timing mark cover. Once that was done, still no start either Btw, Was able to locate the cam and crank signal according to aem instruction, and also verified if its getting fuel and spark, and it does.

I know rb25det comes in series 1 and 2, and have use the rb25 s.1 pinout to wire up my car. I look on both pinout for the Cas and wiring diagram and they both look the same. Hmm.

Tech say I looked into it and there is many different ways, But AEM told me what is need to do on this harness case. On the software there is "test" ways to see what the Ecu is looking at and go from there after AEM told me how to test it, I told them what is happening. They said the 2 signal wire problem needs it's own signal that's how the AEM works. I ask why it works on others with OEM CAS wheel. They said the harness is different. The year they tested was 93-98 r33 GTS only cars, and all other are different. Rb25 came in alot of models in Japan, not just a skyline. I never new aem s2 would be this much of a headache. Should of just went with haltech.