v8dream

You beat me to it! Thanks for the pictures.

That would be great! I was looking at a picture of the '82-'83 part on Buyautoparts.com and it looks like the one that would mount 90 degrees from vertical like Jon said. The part number was N3000-52454 and it has one brake fluid filler cap on it. So, I am thinking that the early version for the '79 may be the one to get. I can't figure out how to post the picture I was looking at here, but that's a problem for another day!

Cool! Thanks Jon.

In the FAQ titled " Brake Upgrade FAQ", a "later 82-83 280 zx master..." is recommended when doing the Toyota upgrade. However, in the thread titled "Help!, What Brake Options for S30s", "a 1979 280 zx" master is recommended. Because these model year masters have differant part numbers (and differant prices, too) I am wondering whether there is really any functional differance between the two. Will either model year master work? I have read old threads for the last two days trying to resolve this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Larry Cutter

Thanks again for all the input, everybody. The pros and cons addressed above really help a newbie like me to see the whole picture. Well, see it better anyway! I appreciate it very much. After reading all of the above, I am looking hard at the Hobart 180 MIG, which operates on 220v, and gas shielding.

Thanks for your help. I suppose my post count will let folks know that I'm kind of new at this.

Hello, I am looking into buying a wire feed welder and would like some input as to what to get. I will be using it primarily for sheet metal repair, exhaust tubing and other light guage material. I can't imagine ever needing to weld anything thicker than 1/4". Has anyone used any of the smaller units on the market? No brand names come to mind, but I've seen them for under $1,000. Also, flux core versus gas shielding. Any opinions on that? Thanks in advance for your help. Larry

I know a guy with extensive experience doing SCCA work. He did the cage in my 240Z project to ITS specs. He's in Concord. Let me know if you do not find anything or anyone closer, and I'll be glad to hook you two up.

Sorry for the silence. I posted above and left town for the holiday weekend. While I never measured the exact amount that the header flanges moved inward toward the block, I can say that it was a good inch on the passenger side and a bit less on the drivers side. I did end up using a mini starter for the same clearance reasons Jon mentioned. I bought a remanufactured unit specified for a late model T-Bird with V8. Much cheaper than Ford Motorsport, and it really opens up the clearance between the nose of the starter and the header flange. Larry

I used the Hookers and had to take a wedge shaped piece from the inside of each bend where the tubes come off the cylinder head. When they were rewelded and ground smooth, they look perfect and there are no kinks or other gross visual clues. They would not clear the "frame" rail on the passenger side or the steering shaft on the driver side without this bit of surgery. For reference, my stock 5.0 harmonic damper is about 3/8" above, and directly over, the steering rack. The engine is slightly offset towards the passenger side, a la JTR manual.