gretchen/jason
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Posts posted by gretchen/jason
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Well i was thinking and wondering would it be better to get a sealed radiator , what i mean is it has no cap and mount it on a angle between the grill and radiator support .
I was thinking then there would be more room between the rad and the engine itself and possiable make it easiser to vent heat away from the rad as oposed to being in the stock position .
Kind of mount it where a intercooler would mount . Maybe it would get more direct air flow at speed . has anyone tried this mod .
Jason
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Yep its a rip off it comes out to about 95$ a day since the last time he saw it which he figures to be about 10-12 days because he bought a KIA to replace the z with !!!!
They have a public auction every so often around here i may show up and see what i can bid on it . Its not worth more then 300$ and im just looking for a roling shell that has a floor board in it to restore .Seeing as my floor boards are like Fred flintstones car .
Jason
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Ok so i found out the deal , the buddy of mine moved in with his girlfriend . She told the tow truck driver where to put the z . To bad it was parked in the wrong place !!!!! It was promptly sent to the impound lot and now has a 1,200$ fee to boot .
The poor guy has to give the impound lot the title and give up his z car . A sad sad day here in colorado springs .
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How about having a B&M gear shifter without reverse lockout and slapping youre z into reverse at 70MPH and ending up going backwards down the highway . Then softly landing in 4 feet of snow on the side of the highway .
I will say that shifter wasnt in my z for very long .
Jason
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Has this ever happend to anyone . I have a friend and i was going to look over his z car to buy it from him . Ive seen it before so i know its real . He had it towed from his old place to his new place .
It ran but only roughly . So he asked his apartment complex if it was ok to have it there . They said sure . It was curent and registerd . Well he said hed been out of town for about 10 days and we went to look at it and it was missing !!!!!
No one seems to know where it went the apartment complex didnt have it towed off and if someone hot wired it maybe they could get a half a block before it died . Its gotta suck to just loose a car even the cops dont have any reports of a car on the side of the road being abandoned .
It suck cause i was looking to buy another z car for a project car to redo top to bottom . And he only wanted 200$ arrrggghhhh
Jason
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You ordered from JEGS first mistake there !!!!!
Id like to ask " A Turbbo Tom Setup " does it push or pull through the carb im not much on turbos id like to see a pic or site on it im interested to see how it works with a carb .
I had the same problem with a BRAND NEW DEMON blower carb 750 cfm . One day it just decided to leak fuel wherever it felt like . It leaked enough fuel one day as to stall my car at 4,000 rpm !!!!
Somehow someplace it got a bit of rubber hose in the float needle inlet and dumped fuel everwhere . Even though i put a new filter on it and cleared the lines out but once i got rid of the piece of rubber out no problems to report of .
Being a rebuilt carb id check the floats like DrHunt said phenolic or brass . If they are sucking up fuel and get heavy wham there is a problem .
Jason
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Well i tried royal purples , purple ice . Seeing as everything is new it didnt help any at all . I also then tried the watter wetter same deal no difference .
Im the kinda guy who gets "things with problems " I bought a new trans from summit and 6 days after install it blew up . Blew all the oil pressure rings on the pump . So i had it rebuilt 600$ new then 650$ to rebuild it again with the " Its not a GM car .
Then the watter pump to the block gasket blew out 6 times within 3 months . Then the T stat housing gave out 3 times in 4 months . Then 3 sets of valve cover gaskets . Now the oil pan leaks . Then the overheating problem . All brand new/ rebuilt stuff from summit racing .
Then 2 fuel regulators then 2 carbs cracked the base of the carb etc etc . But yet im a mechanic for Mitsubishi Every EVO i fix every trans rebuild never ever has a problem but when i buy it and install it in my z well it goes to ♥♥♥♥ .
Heck ive been through 4 drivers side windows in the door because if i shut the door to hard the glass shatters no mater what i do or try to fix aaarrrrggggghhhhhhhh
But i love it regardless its fun even though its costly .
Jason
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I once tried a " restrictor " in my hoses . I tried on the inlet and outlet hoses using a craftsman socket with a 3/8 drive hole it really didnt make any difference that i could tell .
I also tried a larger water pump pulley that helped it run about 8 degrees cooler , i tried this as my cruising speed at 65-70 mph runs me at about 4,000 rpms that is when i run into problems . Anything i did under say 3,000 rpms kept the engine at a fair tempature range .
Granted i do have the problem somewhat fixed , my next step is to try a electric water pump , it seems the slower my water ran through the rad the better it cooled it .
I cant explain why the JTR rad doesnt work for my z as where the other one did .
So if i ever decide to put a heater in my z and hook up heater hoses will it change the water flow any ? . I must mention i have no heater core no heater valve all stock componets even the dash are gone .
I know this doesnt pertain to a z but i know a guy with a 37 ford coupe 454 big block and he has 3 radiators . 1 rad in the stock position and then one under each wheel well behind the tires they are about oh 12 tall 14 wide with fans but it keeps his ride cool .
Jason
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For Mikejtr
I have them blocked off no looped hose . I thought of a looped hose but decided not to , and a local speed shop said it didnt make much of a difference either way .
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Very nice man way to go . i thought i had a lot of tool boxes man i only have 5 similar to those in the pics .
Great job though makes me want to buy another z and totaly redo it while i drive the z i own , one can never have to many z cars . Keep up the good work man
Jason 78 Ex Black pearl z
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Just got curious about a R180 when i saw the R200 poll . Just say what ya got and how long ya been using the R180 as i hear it is weaker then the R200 of course but im curious .
Me ive got 320 horses and 345 ft lbs of torque to the tires been running the R180 for a bit over a year now sometimes with slicks at the strip/back street for tunning purpose only !!!
I know its not much power and torque but maybe someone has a HP/TORQE limit they hit before the R180 snaped .
Jason
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For Mikejtr the fan does pull air through the rad ive made sure of that . Its like this old guy told me . You can cool off say 2 gallons of watter but it will get hotter faster , or cool off 4 gallons of watter and it will heat up slower .
Nope no heater hoses i dont even have heat in my z havent had heat for 2 years i get enough heat from the engine bay through the fire wall to not need a heater . Its not alot of heat but just enough to be ok with a jacket on . Must seem strange someone driving with no heat when it only 22 degrees outside .
Therefore i tried a bigger rad which of course holds more watter kinda like trying to boil say 4 gallons verses 8 gallons which boils faster usually the least amount of watter does . Not thatthe engine doesnt heat it up and the block holds only so much watter yes but the rad keeps more cooler watter in it then the thin one as the block doesnt hold as much watter as the rad does .
or at least that is how it was explained to me not sure but it worked .I hope i didnt sound rude i wasnt trying to be .
Oh and for teekass i hate snow so if it snows i hope it snows someplace other then my house . Have fun in Denver man
Jason
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The bolt and permatex idea sounds good as the hole is really hard to get to i can barley get to it with one finger . To bad i didnt see it before i installed the engine . i only noticed it after i romped on itone day and saw oil spitting everywhere !!!
Jason
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My 350 block has holes for 2 dip stick tubes . Does anyone know what size freez plug or something i could get to plug the hole with . I atempted to try to use a dip stick but couldnt get a acurate fit .
Jason
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http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/10221975/Jan06_03.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/10221975/Jan06_02.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/10221975/Jan06_15.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/10221975/Jan06_14.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52/10221975/Jan06_06.jpg
Here are a few pics of wht i have
I will say this the pics are shown with the JTR rad as i got a hole in my 2 row rad from jegs and had it at the shop being fixed . As soon as its fixed out comes the JTR rad and it goes back on the shelf for a stand by rad . I think in my other reply i said i got rid of it sorry was thinking of something else i keep the JTR rad as a stand by .
I have some pics in the photo gallery under the hybrid z pics . Just pic the letter G and look for gretchen/jason there are a few under hood pics and a pic of my cowl induction hood also .
Oh yes i do now run a weiand 144 super charger but even without it it still got hot with the JTR radiator . I used and am still using a Black Magic xtreeme electric fan even on the JTR rad i used it . The 2 row alum rad worked as someone told me i know have " more watter that gets cooled " then i did with the 1 row radiator .
And i used a Tarus 2 speed fan on both rads and for some reason the Black Magic extreeme fan works the best Summit part #FLX-180 Not sure why but it does a better job for my z for some reason then the Tarus 2 speed fan .
The 2 row rad from summit is part #SUM-380325 25 3/4 wide by 19 high .The electric fan covers all but about 1 inch across the bottom of the core and leaves about 1/4 inch of clearance on each side of the rad between the tank and the frame . And i use the JTR craddle mount but had to lower the bottom mount 1 inch to clear the hood for the Rad cap . Other then that no mods were made .
But with the 2 row on a 90 degree day i now dont see temps over 190 with a 180 degree stat before i could hit 215 while driving . Now that its cold outside about 30 degrees i hover around 165 with a 180 degree stat .
If ya would like different pics ill see what i can do when it quits snowing yuck .
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I bought the all aluminum front controll arms from Arizona z car . You can adjust caster on the car but for camber ya have to unbolt the joint from the cross member . / subframe which ever ya call it .
I bought a full set front and rear and they have held up very nicely and are easy to deal with . They sure impressed me when i got them dialed in and havent lost any degree of alingment in over 1 year of use .
granted the draw back was it cost me just about 1,100 $ for a full set front and rear so about 300$ a corner .
Jason
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id like to ask about the hood , the cowl induction i have a fiberglass hood with a built in cowl scoop on mine . The scoop i have is only 4 3/4 inches tall inside and i want a taller one . Where did you purchase youres or did you have it fabed up just for youre z . Ive tried every thing i can to find a taller one with no luck but youres seems to fit really good .
Even if i have to do some trimming id still like to know whereya got youres .
Jason
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Im sure it been noted before but i cant find it anywhere . I may be getting a 75 240z with a 4 speed stick . I was told it would have a R200 instead of the R180 my 78 280z has . Mine came with a auto trans .
So if my z had a R180 with 3.54 gears what would the R200 have for a ratio .Im hoping 3.73 or maybe something in the 3.90's . I have 4.11 gears now but always wondered what 3.73 would be like with my V8 swap . I got rid of the 3.54 gears as they didnt make me happy with off the line performance .
Jason
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I ran a JTR radiator after 2 weeks i promptly yanked it out and trashed it as it never kept my z cool enough to drive even on a 50 degree day .
So i ordered a 2 row from summit and have had no problems with it yet . Just some advice for when ya install the JTR radiator .
Jason
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Oh no 76 260z huh someone must have swaped fenders on his ride oh well no big deal .
As far as swaping the struts i was going to take the 280z my car struts the strut the controll arm brake drum and all in one piece and swap them over same for the front . Just unbolt from the sub frame and unbolt from strut tower and remove in one whole piece .
Well if it is what he says it is rust free looks like ill have 2 z cars in about a week .
Jason
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To 260 POS
" Good afternoon,
I guess I would like to know engine he bought from us. As I’m sure you are aware GM makes 9 different versions of a small block that we carry. I don’t know what difference the weight would make, plus you don’t know what radiator he is running it might not have enough cooling surface to cool the larger motor. Good luck with your project. Please remember that GM crate motors are exactly that. They are put together on a GM assembly line just like any new motor that you would by from any GM dealer in the United States.
Again, good luck on your project;
Les Lewis
Mail order manager
The engine i ordered is a 290 horse 330 ft lb of torque version from jegs . As all catalogs have different part numbers i wont add it but for kicks in the jegs catalog its this number . 809-12499529k3 . The radiator i have is a 2 row cross flow radiator with a core of 19 tall 17 wide never seen my temp go over 210 with this bigger rad never seen over 185 .
And as far as the car it went in they calim the engine wasnt designed for the car just another way of saying kiss the warranty good bye .
Sure pissed my father in law off as he has a 37 chevy coupe with a vortec 350 in it or that styl heads and its a crate engine and they told him the same thing as a 37 never was meant to have a 350 sbc in it . he has no problems but i just added that because of the warranty issue .
Also thanks again for all the advice folks i can see i wont need to O ring the engine like the speed shop said . I planed on spending whatever it took on head gaskets , pistons and rings . The see what rods i needed and such . From what ive read i may just get a good stock crank and go from there . Im not looking for much power just about oh 350-400 at the tires would be fine as i curently have 300 to the tires .
Thanks
Jason
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I know this isnt a technical question just would like a opinion before i make a final decision
Well i know a guy who wants to sell me his 76 260z for 200$ . the engine and 4 speed tranny will be yanked out and giving away free to anyone in colorado if i buy this car .
The deal is my 78 280z needs both frame rails and floor boards replaced and a spot at the bottom of the front drivers strut tower near the frame rail is rusted through also . Other then that rust free and ive added custom controll arms custom dash and custom wiring harness struts springs bushings etc .
Now on the other hand the 260z suposedly doesnt need frame rails or floor boards . I cant remember i havent seen the car in 6 months . But it needs everything else replaced , brakes , wires , seats ,etc etc struts and so on . but it only has minor outside surface rust .
I only need one z so if i buy the 260z id swap my stuff over to it and sel the 280z shell for 100$ .
Are floor boards costly to replace i mean as far as getting someone to weld them in . im just looking at cost savings . ive been quoted 1,000 $ to have the rails and floors replaced if i buy the parts .
I know noone can make this decision for me but id just like to see what other people might do if it were them .
Jason
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Well i determined it was rings as when i did the test i could put my hand over the breather hole for the PCV valve and it would build up pressure .
As for Dr Hunt and his question i was told by a shop that specializes in blowers that you have to O ring the block and heads , they said they couldnt work on it unless i had it O ringed . Not sure if it needs it or not .
I figured i could buy a stroker crank good conecting rods and good rings and pistons and then have someone machine the block and put it all together . Im sure i could assemble it myself but id rather not take the chance .
And for ICEWTR the pistons that are in the engine are cast aluminum . What pistons and rings would be good for a blower aplicaition ?
Jason
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Well the engine was at about 130 degrees . i tried to get it up to 180 by driving it but when its only 18 degrees outside it is hard to do so i guess that could be a factor .
Also yes i run a blower , i waited for about 3,500 miles before i added the blower and im running 6 lbs of boost . I havent burned any oil a few leaks maybe but that is all . Im hoping i wont have to rebuild it till the end of the year . If so then ill have the block and head O ringed and a stroker kit added , H beam conecting rods etc . Im looking for about 500 horses .
So ill leave well enough alone for the moment and wait for the power adders for a latter date . I have a set of heads to put on but not sure if i should do that now . i may do it just so i can see what the cylinder walls look like .
Thanks for the info folks
Jason
Radiator position question , which is better
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Yes id have to address the " rock" issue some sort of grill or something as ive seen intercoolers that have no " shield " not so good looking . .
Just looking for opinions at the moment . I do have 2 rads i may atempt something just looking for feed back . Thanks for the input .
You blew up a rad !!! i didnt think it was possiable but i see strange things everyday as a mechanic .
Jason