gretchen/jason
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Posts posted by gretchen/jason
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Well the lines come out the passanger side and i cant seem to avoid the exhaust to much about 1 inch at best , i ve thought of running the lines to the rear of the car someplace and mounting a small very small trans cooler .
I got a buddy who doesnt run any cooler of any sort on his V8 swap in his 77 z . He just looped the to lines on the trans so the actual line is only 4 inches long he came off the trans did a 180 degree turn then back into the trans .
So that is another question does a z need a trans cooler seeing as it doesnt tow anything and isnt very heavey to begin with .
Jason
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Ive tried and tried but cant seem to find a clean and good looking place to run the trans lines to a trans cooler any pics or ideas ?
I tried on my 280 to run them where the fuel lines used to go no luck there to big and got hot from the headers . The engine and all are out of the z so now is a good time for me to start routing lines .
I used 5/16 rubber line on my 78 now on my 77 would hard line be better ? then use rubber just between the cooler and the hard line .
Jason
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Very nice job on the car man and good luck . And one of youre pics answered a question that was buggin me what does a z look like with a aero scoop on it and i like it .
Jason
77 280 supercharged 383
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Just curious as to the amount of torque the JTR mounts can handle . Ive had aluminum mounts in a different car similar in design and after a year they devloped stress cracks . The JTR mounts are very nice i must say compared to the MSA mounts i used in the past .
Im not saying bad things about the mounts just curious about the amount of power they can handle as off my problems with aluminum parts in the past .
Jason
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So i did go ahead and order mounts from JTR what a horiable experience . They were rude and kept trying to sell me stuff i didnt want . I said to them i needed engine and trans mounts only nothing else .
Well he started shoving the V8 conversion manual down my throat , i said this is my 3rd V8 swap he said well this will help ya get it rite !!!!!
Then he tried selling me the speedo cable adapter i said no i have a electronic speedo but he kept trying anyway and then kept trying to sell me other stuff no matter how many times i said no ive got it covered .
I dealt with JTR once before about the radiator i bought from them not keeping my V8 cool and they said it was my engine not the radiator so i then bought a 2 row rad problem solved but that is another story .
I now only hope they come with instructions on which mount goes where but i will say the price was good 140$ compared to msa 230$ something . Because when i ordered the radiator mount i had to figure it out my self not a big deal but still its the point .
Jason
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I had the same problem with my 78 280 z i sent the bushings back for another pair and the same problem ocured . What i ended up having to do is cut some of the thickness of the bushings with a band saw .
Ya shouldnt have to do that but i had no choice i believe i took of 1/8 of a inch from each bushing . Then they fit just fine .
Jason
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Free L6 complete minus Efi setup intake and injectors are there though and free 4 speed man trans still atatched to engine , it ran 120 k on it burned no oil or anything clutch is ok makes noise like a playing card in a bicycle spoke from the bell housing .
Im in colorado springs Co if you can come get it you can have it this is no joke .
e mail me at gretchenlee1480@msn.com
Jason
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Oh the Jtr mounts dont huh . Go figure some guy down the streeet with a V8 z says he has the Jtr mounts and he had to weld them in oh well so it is .
Do they mount in the same place or should i ask does the engine sit any farther back with the Jtr mounts .
The msa mounts put my engine back far enough that my large style HEI distrubitor with the coil mounted on the distrubitor has just under 1/4 inch of clearance between it and the firewall . If they mount in the same place and i wouldnt have to get another driveshaft i may just get the entire JTR set up .
Jason
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Can one use MSA,s motor mounts and JTRs trans mount at the same time . I like MSA,s motor mounts no welding no fuss just bolts rite in , in just a few minutes .
But i hated MSA,s tranny mount it sucked .
Jason
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I need both but the passanger side is more important to me at the moment .
Ah yes the junkyard ive tried the only z at te yard is the z i just sold to the junkyard with bad front fenders go figure i tried for about 2 years to get fenders at the bone yard no luck . See mine are rusted about oh 3 inches below the 280z logo with a rust hole about the size of a football . i have a welder and thought of patches but after 1 year of teching myself to weld i still burn holes through the metal . I thought of getting MSA,s type 3 sie skirts to cover up the hole .
Imnot looking for a stock look but a big hole is ugly
Jason
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If ya mean the nissan dealership i tried to get something form them once some bushings and stuff and all they ever say is good luck they cant seem to look up anything any farther back then 1985-1990 . At least that is what my local dealer told me .
Jason
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Ive done a few searces found a few places but id like some feed back on where to buy front fenders for my 280z . Or id like to know a place that can be trusted when buying the product .
Jason
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So not to sound dumb i do ask alot of questions just to be acurate .
If i put my car on a alingment and put 240 lbs of weight in the drivers seat " its what i weigh " then loosen the end links till the bar " floats" loosely but not to loose and snug the end links that would get rid of the preload ?
I have used the adjustable end links from MSA i was impressed with them when i had them but got rid of them during my V8 swap .
Jason
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So ive read stuff about sway bar preload . What is it and how do i know if i have it . I just recently hooked up my front sway bar with new end links and it seems the front end raised up just a bit not sure but it sure looks like it did . Ive searched the site but havent found anything that clearly explains it for me . to me it sounds like pre load is like when a car is lowered onto its springs .
When my z is on all 4 tires how should the sway bar look . Level or the end links somewhat raised up . my z is lowered of course .
And where the end link bolts to the sway bar that end of the bar is higher then where it mounts to the frame by about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch . Should the end link mounting point be level with where its mounted to the frame ?
as it is with the front end the car has hardly any roll what so ever its tight in the corners the rear i havent hooked up yet as im trying to figure out how to mount the bar to the controll arms i bought from Arizona z car
I just want to make sure the sway bars are properly mounted to work the best they can . Oh these are stock sway bars .
If needed i can take measurments of frame height from the ground and such if this helps anyone with this question .
Jason
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So i got a new cam and lifters for a good deal crane cam grind number 113802 for 100$ never used still in the box .
the specs are as follows 109 int lobe center and 119 on the exh 222 int dur at .050 and 234 on the exh with a .467 int lift and .494 exh lift .
Is this ok for a supercharged 383 8 lbs of boost cast iron heads 3,000 rpm stall converter may use 3.54 gears not sure but like my 4.11 gears . 1.5 ratio roller rockers full roller . Heads have ben majorly ported to flow the best they can .
To the folks reading this
what cam do ya use on youre z if its supercharged ?
Thanks
Jason
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Very nice threads i have about 1/2 inch of thread on the joint showing on the AZ cars rear controll arms which therefore i have about negative .30 degrees of camber . I try to get dead zero camber for better traction in the straight line .
As for the front i have AZ cars aluminum controll arms no problems there but i am running 1 degree neg camber so as to help the front end bite in the corners .
Thankfully my rear controll arms dont have any cracks in them i did read about future arms being made stronger . i bought mine around feb-March of 2006 so im not sure if i have the stronger arms or not . Hopefully they dont break on me .
Jason
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They cause the strut to weaken huh that could explain why my tokicos " struts " in the front are shot after only 2 years . Ive got the stock caps just need the bearings . That is all there is isnt there just the stock cap/bumper for the strut with the bearing underneath that which all sits on top of the " spring perch " upper piece ?
Seeing as i have AZ Cars controll arms i dont need those camber adjusters the controll arms have them built in i bought them before the control arms just never got rid of them .
Oh the 78 is in the bone yard sorry read the replies to late .
Jason
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Just a quick question is a 77 280z alternator internally or externally regulated im just curious its been so long i forgot which it is .
Jason
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Well what i did was sit each car side by side and removed one entire set up controll arm and strut all in one piece then took it off the 78 " my tokico setup . And put it on my 77 from which i removed the stock set up and put it on the 78 .
Its of no issue except the front of my 77 now is very very low the 78 is going to the bobe yard twisted frame . I was just curious as the 77 didnt sit up as high with stock suspension as the 78 does now that it has a stock setup on it .
It could be though i have the MSA camber adjustemnts on top of my struts the eurthane ones . I have the stock strut caps but need the bearing for the fronts that go under the cap maybe then it will raise it up a bit .
Thanks for the info
Jason
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05 /06 mustang tailights huh any pics ? Ive thought of putting a set of those in my 77 280z
Jason
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So i bought me a running 77 280z all stock even the spare tire and can of air are still in there hold downs with the factory stickers on them . 500$ for the whole car hasnt run since 92 fired up and drove nicely .
Onto the question i swaped my tokico setup from my 78 to my 77 AZ car controll arms etc etc . Now when i installed it on my 78 it lowered the car about 1 inch . Well when installed on my 77 it lowered it 3 1/2 inches !!!! . I cant figure out how that can be .
Well i put the 77 stock suspension on my 78 as it has a twisted fram from the blown 350 i installed in it . Well it raised the car up so high it looks like a rail buggy . The 77 is so low the outer tie rod ends are higher then the steering rack itself . Was the something different between the two cars .
Jason
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Did any z come from the factory with a sun roof or was it a dealer installed option or something the owner did aftermarket ? I have one on mine and was just wondering where it could have come from 77 280z .
Jason
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Thanks braap ill look into JTR hood latch . Im not looking for a " stock look " just would like to get rid of the hood pins no matter how i have to modify it as long as it shuts without pins .
I thought of moving the engine forward but i have a clearance issue as i use a supercharger that left me little room between the crank pully and the electric fan . I will be using the JTR trans mount though with MSA's engine mounts .
Jason
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I tried that and the hood would never shut corectly . I moved the latch and all the parts 6 inches to the drivers side just barley cleared and when ya shut the hood the pasanger side would lift up slightly . It just never worked liked i wanted it to no matter how much i alterd and and welded the new setup .
Jason
keeps overheating!!!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Eh i fought the same problem when i used the radiator from JTR . I got a Universal 2 row rad from summit racing got a black max xtreme fan put in a 185 degree stat " yes i ran a cowl induction hood " but even without that hood it over heated with the stock 78 hood .
After i added those products i went damn i should try to slow down the flow of the water seeing as im running 4.11 gears with a Th350 3,700 rpms at 60 mph so i slowed down the water flow problem solved . The new rad from summit racing droped me from 230 degrees to 200 !!! Then the slower water flow keeps me around 175-180 with a supercharged 350 . Or it did till i yanked it to do a 383
It seemed the more water i tried to flow the worse it got so the longer it can stay in the radiator to cool off the better it got hence the slower flow so a stock water pump helped as i tossed the high flow pump and got the biggest water pumpo pulley i coud fit on there i believe it is about 7 1/4 inches the crank pulley is about 6 1/2 across
Jason