Over30S130

Old thread, but same thing seemed to work for me. Have had to tap ECU with my foot on a few occasions during a couple of months-so far gone the longest without any issues-about a month now. Even tapped it with foot on the gas to make sure that's what was seeming to fix it. Not sure if the issue lies in the plug connections, grounds, or the inner-workings of the ECU. Who cares for right now.

Thanks for the info. May have to end up doing the same if the problems persistently reoccur, but doing OK at the moment.

Like them already!

Desperatley need to see pics. Not enough of the newer line of the XXR wheels posted, especially wider widths and on a 280ZX which is what I have. Post pics as soon as you guys get them mounted on your cars. Be sure to mention size of wheel/tire and offset/backspace and any size spacer used and also anything different you would have done. Thanks.

Update-hope this might help someone a little. Had previously fixed this issue by accident by just disconnecting the cables at the ECU and just plugging them back in. The problem has resurfaced again. Sputtering on initial take off even with light throttle. Releasing gas pedal and reapplying slowly seemed to get through this, but when trying to accelerate, when just starting to boost or at zero vacuum, power would hit a wall. When this last happened, I let off the gas and bumped the panel where the ECU is located with my foot and reapplied the gas and what do you know, all power is back. Problem not solved I know, but maybe I am atleast in the right location on this issue.

Got to thinking more about this one. When I turn the ignition key to the off position, the the warning lights appear on the display as they do when cranking, but do not immediatley turn off. I can hear the fuel pump still running while these lights are still on for a second or two and then the engine shuts down slowly after fuel pump is has stopped,lights go off and then door lock opens. Still thinking this might have something to do with PO's install of alarm-disabled right now by PO-atleast the horn is that I know of, but the alarm light on windsheild pillar stays on while car is off. I beleive it is a VIPER alarm. Any ideas or comments or just leave AS IS?

It's worth a try and easy enough to do. If it runs better, would that mean my O2 sensor needs replacing rather than just run with it disconnected? I kinda want to get the best MPG when I can-nevermind, this is my Turbo car-hard to keep foot out of this one.

When I turn my ignition switch off the engine keeps running for about 2 seconds. I don't think it is actually dieseling as to me, dieseling is whereby the engine almost quits then keeps going a time or two-usually with some knocking as well. Mine just has a delay and then just slowly quits. Just wondering if other stock turbo ZXs do the same thing, if not, could it be due to having an alarm system wired in or what?

Just wondering if anyone has ever damaged their front mount oil cooler by running to far up on a curb, etc. when parking. I haven't looked at it in close detail, but just wondering if it is set back enough sothat the front wheels will hit the curb first, providing that the front grill clears. Sure would hate to damage this if I can help it, by being a little extra careful when parking.

I drove the car and it drives with no real issues. The idle is back down to 500. In my previous post, I did let it get up to normal operating temperature and the idle was holding at 750???? Atleast I am driving her again.

Very important update-I haven't driven my car in the past few days trying to research the CHTS. As mentioned earlier, I did a tune up and as soon as I let it off the ramps and cranked it, it would not full throttle up-it would only bog and pop through the AFM if I held the throttlr down long enough. If I disconnected the CHTS, it would rev fine, but would lose idle and stall and it would not restart without reconnecting the CHTS. I tried this morning to take a stab at diagnostics with a meter and my FSM. I checked both my old and new CHTS in ambient temp(supposed to check in controlled water) and both were reading about 4 ohms which was in spec with the book for a temp. between 20 degrees F and 68 degrees F-outside temp. was about 50 degrees. I then check at the connector and got nothing???? I proceeded to disconnect and reconnect the 3 connections at the ECM, but I wanted to check #23 to ground for the CHTS since I did not get a reading at the connector. My probes were not small enough to get into the connector-oh well, so much for that! Before reconnecting the battery, I disconnected the connector at the decelleration device,I forget the acronym at the moment. I did this because I was having idling issues before the tune up. I started her up and everthing is fine now. Idle is at 750RPM and revs full throttle with no problems and holds idle afterwards as well! Go figure. I have read it here before and now cannot reitterate it enough, on cars this old, it pays to disconnect and reconnect all connections-especially those that are prime targets and at the ECM. Take it from me, wiggling-disconnecting/reconnecting has solved two of my major problems with this car. Who knows-maybe disconnecting the battery might have helped as this usually works with machinery that I work with and it works for computers by re-booting. Bottom line, however it got fixed I do not know. I am just glad because it was starting to piss my wife off with the purchase of my new found toy of long ago. The only thing I can figure that might have contributed to this whole problem is bumping the connector for the CHTS while installing plugs. The connector itself is cracked and missing clip now, but seems to be making solid connection without. the boot to the connector has a tear, but connection and wires appear to be fine. Hope this helps someone who has this known problem(s) with these cars-I know I'm a happy camper right now!

I havn't because it full throttle revs fine when I disconnect the CHTS-just may die or not keep an idle if remained disconnected. Cannot full throttle the gas from idle with it connected-justs bogs. New plugs were removed and looked OK-clean on one side-brown on the other with no black soot or wet look.

Did a small tune-up since car was recently purchased and could not tell when tune-up had last been done and was also having some slight hesitation/surging/miss??? at normal throttle(fine under boost) and a low and slightly erratic idle. Here is what happened-changed the oil and filter, changed spark plugs to NGK copper U-grooves(gapped to .044)-same brand that was already in prior to tune-up-even indexed the plugs as best possible through trial and error-plug wire orientation verified as well. Changed the fuel filter and blew a little compressed air back through the line to the fuel pump to hopefully clear any possible blockages since fuel pump accasionaly had different sounds/tones at times. Took her off the ramps and started her up fine, but engine would not rev-period. It would sputter,bog, choke etc.-assuming running lean because I saw no black smoke. I disconnected the CHTS and she would FULL THROTTLE rev fine, but when RPMs came back down to idle, the engine would sometimes die and would not crank without re-connecting the CHTS. I thought the fuel pump might need priming, but then why would it rev fine with the CHTS disconnected. I even took all the new plugs back out to check and none of them were wet really. I went out and bought a new CHTS-although it looked slightly different, it looked more like what I had than any other sensor showing at the local auto store-O-Reiley's was the only one that had one or could even get one. The only difference was that the new one had a smaller/shorter part that goes in the head. It came with a washer which was installed-not sure if the brass part of the sensor needs to be directly in contact with the head as the old one had no washer. Started up fine-had better/near normal idle, but still would not rev at all without disconnecting again. I even cleaned the wire harness contacts with spray contact cleaner. I could drive like this I suppose, but I would have to feather the throttle at stop lights to keep from having it die on me and if it did I would probably need it reconnected just to get it started back up or I could leave it connected and not have any power whatsoever, neither of which sounded like viable options. Apparently the problem is not with the CHTS. What caused this change???????? Just wondering if anyone had any first hand ideas without having to go through the whole EFI Bible diagnostic check,

Thanks for the clarification on the Turbo application Brad-Man, that kinda had me confused as well. But,not all NA ZXs had just R180s either, I believe. An '82 I previously owned had a R200.

Thanks for all the replys guys without getting flamed. I did my searching in those areas prior that were suggested herein, but just wanted to get some more confirmation as who knows, there might be some minor conflicting info. or info. left out on various info. that lists diffy's to model year match ups. Thanks Z2go as that was just the kind of information I was looking for-first hand info. on the '75 Auto diffy. But I know, nothing can take the place of seeing it first hand and verifying for sure at that time. I didn't necessarily want to go with an older R200, especially one that I had to modify-however easy as you make it seem, but this one kind come up suddenly even though I wasn't really in need of one quite yet, but couldn't resist atleast checking into it due to the fact that it was pulled out of a new car and stored. I may have missed this one as his ad is deleted now and I have not heard back again, but atleast I have aquired some very good info. to help in the future. Thanks again.

I'll check under the car just to be sure, but according to the FAQ, all autos have the R180, but the Turbo Autos have the R200. If the confusion is around the '75Z, most of them were R180, but a somewhere I saw that '75 and maybe '76 Autos had the R200. Just wondering also if both were R200, would I need to change the outputs on the new/old one going in the Turbo with the ones off the old one since I am running CVs?

Don't want to get flamed here, but I'm running short on time. I have done the search and I think that it is a direct swap, but just want to make sure. I have the opportunity to buy this somewhat local and the R200 is the same 3.54 ratio that I already have in the Turbo that I think may have issues-if not now-could later on, anyways. I can get for less than $100 and I am interested because it was pulled during the first year of the car's life to swap for a different ratio R200, so it has very low miles on it. It has been sitting in some guy's basement all this time. Local,low miles, and cheap-hard to pass up. Is this the exact R200 that I am looking for? The key info. here was that it came from a '75 w/AUTO from what I've found? Just want to make sure before I drive 130mi. as the seller won't ship.

Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't have known to check connections if it hadn't been for this site. I might have been like others and throw time and money at it and some have gave up and sold there cars I'm sure. Any recommendations on best(?)connector cleaner that is readily available-would only like to clean these once at this time if I can help it. I've heard of CAIG Deoxit, but don't know where to get it. I need to change my plugs to see if that fixes my 500 RPM low idle and ever so slight surging while mildly accelerating, but not sure which plugs to buy-heard that one can't go wrong with NGK, but wondering if there is any benefit to spend more on the platinums or go cheaper, but just as good perhaps with the U-grooves.

Heys guys, this is probably going to be a little long, but here goes. I've been searching this site for about two years now and have been absorbing all the good info. obtained along the way. I initially joind to learn more about these cars due to having purchased a '79 280ZX that was not running at the time so I took her down to halfway restore as a project. I have since bought an '82 Turbo that I couldn't pass up as my daily driver. The only thing major wrong with it so far was that it occasionaly sputtered on start-up. I found out some things that I thought I would share as well as also to maybe get some suggestions. It has always had a low idle of about 650 and has stalled out one time. When the RPMs are revved to about 1500 to 2000 constant-there is a slight miss noticed which may account for the low idle. I filled up at about 1/8 tank the first day I had her and for the first two days afterward-wether it be cold morning start-ups or afternoon start-ups, it would have no power for several miles. Once any load was applied to propel her down the road, she would immediatley sputter and bog down and if I tried to compensate by applying more gas pedal it would start to pop through the AFM. Backing off the gas would stop the popping, but the car would still have almost no power. It took a couple of days to figure out that when this happens, if I completely let off the gas and then steaily reapply that the power comes back-could this be a sticky AFM? Also the car will surge/miss slightly when under light load, but runs strong under boost. Two days after filling 1/2 tank that first time, I could not get her to crank one afternoon on first try as she usually does, so I drove another car. The next morning I tried cranking, only longer this time and even messaging the gas pedal and finally got her to slowly crank with a little bit of black smoke out the tail pipe. I turned her off and she fired right up again, but with low idle still. I turned her off again and decided to wiggle the AFM connector and ECM connections. The next start-up that afternoon it seemed like the lack of power problem had went away-I was able to get on the throttle right away. Occasionally the fuel pump will make a little more noise than usual when idling and I am wondering if I might have some trash in my tank as well, afterall the car has 155,000 miles in which 141,000 were acheived by 1998 so the car hasn't been driven a whole lot in the past 13 years, but is in very good shape-original engine and turbo. Car came with good records and as far as I can tell the fuel pump has NOT been changed, but injectors have been due to leaking or bad flow pattern and FPR was changed as well. The car is probably in need of a basic tune-up which will hopefully cure the slight miss and low idle? I am going to install a pre-filter to the pump and run some Sea Faom through the tank as well. I have not had a chance to do a compression check, but that's on the list. One other thing, it has a viper alarm that has had the horn disconnected, but the alarm light still blinks, when I cut the ignition off, the engine still runs for a split second and then the engine check lights flash and then the door locks open-Is this normal or could it have to do with the alarm wiring? BTW, the ignition switch was the last thing to be replaced along with new battery-will look into stronger battery, better cables(although new) and check grounds given info. on here about problems in these areas. A/C does not work, 2nd PO said it need compressor and 1st PO istalled Hayden electric fan. The whole fan/AC thing has me wondering-I have to dig into that one. Not sure if fan was replaced before copressor went out or because it went out. I have my ZX back after 25 years(Turbo this time)and thanks to Hybrid Z to help me keep it running.

It's work on Zs like this that gives others the inspiration and ideas to do theirs.

I like it. Looks professional and still leaves room in the the middle of all that waaay coool setup for say a juice bottle. Slap one of those in there to let'em know you mean business and call it done. That is, if your into that kinda go-fast-stuff.