WaiDai
-
Posts
50 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by WaiDai
-
-
T5 1983 280zx Turbo
Im looking at the fsm and referring to part 28. its simply labeled bushing then right behind that is the oil seal. Would any of you know how i can find this bushing? or is it necessary? i just finished rebuilding my trans with 0 knowledge on trans. Just realized that there is supposed to be an oil seal at the rear (thanks to yasins post about skf 13958)... trans fluid was spilling during acceleration.. which lead me to the fsm and i noticed the bushing. So it seems my finishing touch would be to buy the oil seal and find the bushing? i just dont have any clue what it would be called. help please? i tried googling rear tail house bushing, slip yoke bushing, and other stuff. educate me on its function too please if it is required so i rid myself of any ignorance. -
Update and Fixed
The bearings under the 3/4 syncro blew out causing the ring that pushes up the keys to get loose therefore causing the keys to overlap onto the synchro and prevent my car from shifting. cleaned it out and replaced the bearings, readjusted the keys and the metal ring that pushes up the keys and now it shifts smoooothly. ran into another issue where the car now wont get past 3k rpm. i doubt its related to the trans UNLESS the neutral switch needs to be plugged in (left it unplugged for now cause the wires ripped) however i believe that switch is only for safety reasons. Going to check electrical related things like tps and afm, also a google search brought up many many results for similar problems so i will go though those first unless someone can pinpoint the issue being related to my transmission fix that probably caused this.
Thanks Tony D as you pinpointed this very precisely and most importantly educated me on why and how.
oh as for the shifter being able to shift to neutral and the car still stayed in gear, the keys got stuck since the rings moved. so it allllllllll made sense that the lever was in a different position but the car was in gear.
i guess the key things i learned from this are
If you are having trouble pushing the shifter into gear, those keys could be a problem so shift into the corresponding gear (from 3 to 4 or 4 to 3) then back to hopefully get the keys back into position if they are a loosening.
and i need to invest into more equipment because wrestling and using human strength to push that transmission back into the car with hardly any room vertically (about 2-3 feet, was laying on my back and rolled the tranny onto my chest using legs and arms to lift it into the car) was wayyyyy too difficult.
-
Thank you very very very much Tony for the explanation. Very detailed and easy to understand. Aug 5th is around the corner and my family (brother) is getting ready to head back home so i can get back to spending time on the car. Seriously tony thanks, i takes hours to read the detail you explained in a few minutes. my next post in this will be an exact target on whats wrong and what i did to fix this using what i learned from you and the good ole fsm...
Connor, ive seen many threads about fluid types through google. im sure you could find the info in there. (saying this cause your question really through off this post)
-
would you say if it were the input bearing would the noise be consistent or could it sound like something is getting knocked around? imagine a shard of metal in the case getting hit around (not a consistent rhythm). with the clutch in there is no noise then as i release it you can hear that non consistent noise. when i took it apart and saw how the keys didnt seat themselves very nicely i assumed they were getting smacked around by the syncro as it was partially engaged.
i dont want to drag out this too long as if im not listening to you (tony) but yes that is basically my final question whether if the noise should be a consistent one or if it could have what i explained. and what about the gears being set the neutral and the shaft when rotated would randomly catch back into gear?
as a note of progress...
my brother (a mechanic unlike me)
is in town and will take a look at it. he's a 90's car guy soooo hopefully he can point out what you explained to me.
thanks again tony for the knowledge!
as for xnike
that explanation was very very straight forward and what i needed! there are too many threads that only go halfway in explanation, kind as if the guy figured out all that is needed and stopped posting. however i did think the same thing as tony, why not just leave the tailhousing and get a new driveshaft made. -
Sounds like the shift forks are loose on the selector rods from aggressive shifting and now they slide the selection cones randomly. But to address it in turn:
I have a 83 280zx turbo with the Borg Warner T5. Ive considered the routes of putting in a wc t5 (too much customization) wow!, going the nissan 5 speed route (rather not) O.Keeey, and just going to the junkyard and getting a t5 out of another 280zx (i feel safer knowing i have a freshly rebuilt one) At least you could open it up and compare it to see what's bad in yours! AAmco usually can order in one fer ya... got $1500?. If the WC conversion is too much customization, the Z32 Box conversion requires bit of a 'customization' -- probably moreso than a WCT5
Story:
My 3-4 syncro assembly is bad. When driving home it got harder and harder to shift into 3rd and any gear for that matter This is not a 3/4 Synchro, "any gear for that matter" means dragging clutch disc, or pins on the rods allowing the shift fork fingers to move but not positively...they can slip so may not get the thing into the gear it's supposed to be in. I got home driving in 1st down my street. Then when i stopped the car and put it into neutral, all i heard was a clicking clacking sound as the car was sitting in neutral.Sounds like bearings knocking about without cages, open it up and take a look. I stepped on the clutch and the sound disappeared.That moves it to the INPUT SHAFT BEARING It would come back as i eased off the clutch then finally it somehow slapped into gear(the noise also stopped) though the shifter was in neutral and i quickly pressed back down on the clutch.Then you weren't in "N" but in gear. Sure sounds like a shift fork slipping. I eased off the clutch again to learn the car was in gear and i couldn't get it out.Sounds like a shift fork sheared the pin holding it to the selector rod. I took apart the transmission to find that the part that is supposed to slide around over the 3/4 syncro was hard to budge. after some very manly hours i was able to push it loose. I lifted the keys and saw some metal shavings inside and it was really difficult to press in the keys and slide the part around.Well, that justifies replacing the 'ground up parts'! now that the transmission itself was in neutral i rotated the shafts to see if the transmission was in neutral and it was until it would randomly grab into gear and let go.At this point, it hasn't occurred that with the selector in "N" but you still being in gear means something is Sheared/Bent dealing with the shift selector rods and the fingers going over the synchro selector? I checked the gears rotation ratios and determined it to be 3/4. Huh?
Symptoms:
Noise from Transmission Bad Bearings
Car hard to shift Define 'Hard' and 'How' the shifter is physically hard to move? Like something is dragging?
Transmission suddenly goes into a gear Disconnected Shift Finger rattling around pushing selector internally engaging synchros randomly. Or mechanical jamming of internal parts giving the appearance of being in gear, but not really. A seized pilot needlebearing does something similar making you think you have a clutch problem because it won't 'disengage'...
Cant get car out of gear Disconnected Shift Finger rattling around pushing selector internally engaging synchros randomly, or jammed/seized component.
Shifter still in neutral Sheared Pin in Shift Finger to Selector Rod, or Bent Shift Fingers
Theory
This appears to me that the noise was possibly the keys having trouble going into gear.No, when the noise goes away with the clutch its an input shaft bearing going bad--classic symptom. The car got into 3rd and was hard to shift out because the syncros are bad.No, it shifts hard because the guide rod pin is sheared and you are physically sliding the selector rod through the interference fit in the shift finger (or bending something) until it disengaged. Hard to shift into ANY gear could be EVERY synchro being bad, but this is rarely the case unless you ran the bad oil and ate them all up...It's possible, but not probable It randomly went into gear as performed when turning the shafts in neutral.? "Randomly going into gear" or mechanical binding of failed components internally jamming the assembly and allowing the shaft to turn? Shifter was in neutral meaning the forks held the parts in the neutral position but the gears were still in 3rd which could be explained by the spin test aswell since the gears were in that position and it would randomly grab into gear. Or that something is bent or a pin was sheared allowing the shifter to assume a false position, or again internal jamming of parts allowing friction to grab the shaft and allow it to turn.
Solution And Question:
Will this rebuild kit work for our (nissan) T5?Ask the Seller i posted a question to the seller as well but it says he is away till august.....Huzzah! August is almost here! Be Patient or go get another tranny from the JY. The brand for the item is Tremec and as most of you would know is the company that took over the T5 from Borg Warner. This kit goes for pretty cheap compared to my googling of syncro assemblies. Any suggestions are welcomed except those saying "just go with nissan 5speed, or get a mustang t5 or any of that" Suggestions should be on the line of "you should buy from here it's cheaper and better" or "i dont think that is your problem, your problem actually is....". I havent seen many topics on rebuild kits (i seen a few but they target one seller that sells a rebuild kit for $250... which is pretty hefty. If those are hefty prices, skip AAmco, and the idea of getting a 'freshly rebuilt' unit for your car. Junkyard is your only option at this point, and since you are unwilling to accept any alternates, you look to be SOL. Most guys selling T5's in SoCal seem to be asking $400 for JY Pullouts, so looks like you're crawling the hotline looking for a compatible T5 to replace your bodged up box. I'm with Yasin on the suggestion to just run the Nissan N/A box. FAR easier to source and you aren't willing to pay the price for any of the three T5's in my storage container (besides, I'm not expected back until January...)
I wondered the same thing about the shift fork but when i took it apart it looked to be ok. The main thing i noticed when i took apart the transmission is that at the 1-2 syncro, the gear that slides between them can slide freely when you press in all the keys. as for the 3-4, it was extremely difficult to slide around and in many cases it got stuck when it finally sat around the keys and would require a lot of force to get it out.
i also noticed that when i was able to move the sliding gear around the 3-4 out to set the car in neutral, i rotated the shafts and found it to be in neutral but it would randomly catch into gear and release.
the nose i figured were the keys rubbing possibly rubbing on the syncro rings(the bronze one) because it disappeared when the gear got put into 3rd which would be holding the keys down). the noise is gone now since it is in gear. the noise also came from within the transmission and not the bellhousing. i can record a video of the keys and what is going on when trying to move that sliding gear around.
My options are still open. thanks for the input about the wct5 vs the z32 routes. it seems like a bit of work for me to work on either at the moment so im saving for that project for next summer.
yes it is august, and it's not like i have been sitting around not looking for other sellers. i could buy from other websites but this is a tremec product and may be better quality than other sellers. I said hefty in price as compared to the link i provided. If the unit i provided is genuine tremec and it sells for that price as compared to other sellers, then why pay for something that is more than double the cost for possibly something of worse quality? I will be doing my own labor so the cost of rebuilding a transmission with the product in the link would be the price of that product which is much cheaper than a trans from the JY and would be rebuilt unlike the JY unit.
Thanks for your diagnosis. its really helping me understand transmissions better. I never, never, never opened a transmission in my life until now so its great to hear the different possibilities. im not ruling out anything you said for the diagnosis but im waiting for more feedback from you that pertain to what i just described in this post.
-
im still looking for an answer to my question soo im not changing the topic from its original post.
from what i looked up those adapter plates come weighing in at roughly 400. then have to buy the transmission and more. soo that sounds like something ill consider later. im just trying to get my daily back on the road in time for school.
sooooo anybody have any idea about this kit?
-
have you looked into a L to VG adapter plate? I am pretty sure the Z32 5spd transmission are a bit ahead of the WC t5 and you can pick them up dirt cheap ANYWHERE.
i am very curious of this idea. i seen big phils video on this but i wasnt sure how much work would be involved? he went for the z31 tranny i believe but i will look into this. if you have a link or experience in what is needed that would help a lot. ive only been reading on t5 for t5... and the 5 speed from the 280zx. never looked into other outside transmission so i would be interested in this if the cost factor is similar.
-
I'm curious what specifically you have against the Nissan 5 speed?
Nigel
Because eventually i want to attempt to upgrade my bw t5 into the wc one. i already have it apart and had some good visuals of my problems. ive read a lot of post about the bw t5 in my car but i do plan on doing some custom work prob by next summer to upgrade to a wc t5. i dont really want to get a transmission from the junkyard since it feels like a gamble. i feel safer knowing my transmission is rebuilt and better yet rebuilt by me (wont be taking any shortcuts and going word for word from the fsm). But yea any idea of the links i showed? im sure there are some t5 experts that know this rebuild kit..
i responded to both post using this one basically. so thanks for the feedback guys! and yasin i do trust your word since ive read your work on your 280zx. i do want to work with the t5 though and just need some clarity on the kits i found.
-
bump for an answer?
-
That one was the full rebuild. but i would probably go with this one too. (its the one that actually said tremec. i posted the link to the full rebuild that seller has V.S. this one)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T5-NON-WORLD-Transmission-Rebuild-Kit-GM-Ford-Jeep-AMC-/360610854320#vi-content -
I have a 83 280zx turbo with the Borg Warner T5. Ive considered the routes of putting in a wc t5 (too much customization), going the nissan 5 speed route (rather not), and just going to the junkyard and getting a t5 out of another 280zx (i feel safer knowing i have a freshly rebuilt one).
Story:
My 3-4 syncro assembly is bad. When driving home it got harder and harder to shift into 3rd and any gear for that matter. I got home driving in 1st down my street. Then when i stopped the car and put it into neutral, all i heard was a clicking clacking sound as the car was sitting in neutral. I stepped on the clutch and the sound disappeared. It would come back as i eased off the clutch then finally it somehow slapped into gear(the noise also stopped) though the shifter was in neutral and i quickly pressed back down on the clutch. I eased off the clutch again to learn the car was in gear and i couldn't get it out. I took apart the transmission to find that the part that is supposed to slide around over the 3/4 syncro was hard to budge. after some very manly hours i was able to push it loose. I lifted the keys and saw some metal shavings inside and it was really difficult to press in the keys and slide the part around. now that the transmission itself was in neutral i rotated the shafts to see if the transmission was in neutral and it was until it would randomly grab into gear and let go. I checked the gears rotation ratios and determined it to be 3/4.
Symptoms:
Noise from Transmission
Car hard to shift
Transmission suddenly goes into a gear
Cant get car out of gear
Shifter still in neutral
Theory
This appears to me that the noise was possibly the keys having trouble going into gear. The car got into 3rd and was hard to shift out because the syncros are bad. It randomly went into gear as performed when turning the shafts in neutral. Shifter was in neutral meaning the forks held the parts in the neutral position but the gears were still in 3rd which could be explained by the spin test aswell since the gears were in that position and it would randomly grab into gear.
Solution And Question:
Will this rebuild kit work for our (nissan) T5? i posted a question to the seller as well but it says he is away till august..... The brand for the item is Tremec and as most of you would know is the company that took over the T5 from Borg Warner. This kit goes for pretty cheap compared to my googling of syncro assemblies. Any suggestions are welcomed except those saying "just go with nissan 5speed, or get a mustang t5 or any of that" Suggestions should be on the line of "you should buy from here it's cheaper and better" or "i dont think that is your problem, your problem actually is....". I havent seen many topics on rebuild kits (i seen a few but they target one seller that sells a rebuild kit for $250... which is pretty hefty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T5-NON-WORLD-Class-Master-Rebuild-Kit-GM-Ford-Jeep-AMC-/350712906441#vi-content
-
its been a LONNNNG journey... but finally figured it out. i noticed today as the car warmed up its idle gets lower and becomes too low till it dies.. also the air fuel ratio goes bad as its warming up.. then boom it dies and doesnt start up.. soo i figured it has to be the chts. i took a part i ordered that apparently isnt for my car via rock auto (coolant temp sensor) and stuck it where the chts is. i read post about its functions and that its similar THOUGH its not something i should leave on in the long run due to its ideal usage is for liquid heat and not i gues metal contact heat? anywho i stuck it in its place. started car... and was able to start any time i wanted.. i warmed the car up then it warmed and lived among 2-3 bars but usually around 3 on the rpm.. and today.. i finally drove my car around the block =] was able to park and drive it again... life is great! but now to find another 280zx to compare ideal stock performance... since i dont know whether if my car is struggling or if that's just how it is. either way its fun to drive! =] i am loving my Z now..
-
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/403000-403999/403158_270_full.jpg
i noticed 2 hoses that are not connected. can someone tell me where the 2 skinny hoses that go over where it would say turbo go to? i realized one of em has vacuum and the other doesnt. im guessing one plugs into the cruise control thing? while other i have no clue.. someone let me know please =] pictures would be beneficial.. i tried looking at fsm but i just have no idea what the units are called that it is plugged into..
-
You mentioned lots of blue smoke with a fuel rich smell, in the first post. Have you pulled a plug or two right after it won't start? It sounds like it's flooding, and it takes a day to dry out.
Check your CHTS, if it's not working or disconnected, you'll end up with too much fuel.
That has been fixed. it wasnt blue. it was just super super super rich fuel. it got fixed by replacing the afm. the only issue left is the car only starts once. a day ish (havent bothered counting hours, but its longer then 3 hrs). i pulled the plugs and cleaned them. so plugs are giving excellent spark. i wondered if it was flooding too..so i started it after like 3 days and let it run for only like 2 seconds. and it wouldnt start again.. it literrally only starts once =[
-
get a can of starting fluid. use it see if you can get a second start out of it. If so then pretty likely you have a fuel delivery issue. need fuel, fire and air to run. load check your battery and be sure your cables are clean, tight and free of corrosion on both ends. Z's don't like low voltage. you can get the amps to crank but not the voltage to run the electrics (ask my wife about the time I took her for a ride and we couldn't get off the ferry). Get a can of Deoxit by CAIG. clean the connectors for AFM, TPS and ECU with it. you've done so many other things time to be looking at very basic stuff. You say you measured fuel pressure after the regulator which is the totally wrong place. the fuel comes from the pump to the filter then to the fuel ring and then to to the FPR. your gage needs to go between the filter and the fuel ring. You really need to understand the fuel system. try downloading the fsm from xenon and READING IT.
i measured both areas for fuel pressure to detect whether if the fpr was working also.. i figured that if the fpr pumped enough pressure.. then that is just before the injectors sooo yea... ill try out the CAIG stuff, never heard of it. i already tried starting fluid. that didnt work, same response. i checked the battery with my jumper tool and bars are still nice and green. i truly understand the fuel system. i just took extra time to check fuel pressure in other locations other then just whats given on the fsm. i spent alot of time reading it.. and i mean a WHOLE lot. its been a long year. so most definitely i paid attention to the fsm. the caig idea ill try though. the issue seems very weird. i cant even google its symptoms.
-
Once a day, every day, at the same time of day, so many hours apart? Outside, in garage? Sounds electrical in nature to me. Are the AFM and crank angle sensors new or used parts. Not 100% sure but does it matter how you put the disk in for the cas, upside down or right side up? Try bumping the ecu while its running, sounds strange but mine had a faulty chip. It would die out of nowhere and refuse to start again till it wanted. Bumping the ECU or any vibration may give it faulty reading change your timing and fuel output. Just some Ideas!
everything i put in is new. the cas goes in only one way. but ill take a jab at the ecu... literally =]
-
What is it that "goes away" when you shut the car off, after letting it run for a while? I saw your other post, which is more descriptive since you say that you have spark.
If you have spark, and the engine turns over, and it ran just a few seconds earlier, then fuel would be the place to look. Do you have fuel pressure on the second try, and are the injectors firing?
not to sure what your referring to that "goes away". i am sure the injectors are firing but ill check fuel pressure again when i get the tool.. i doubt fuel is the issue though.. simply cause i can only start the car once. and that i could even let it run and warm up if wanted.. i didnt get the chance to see if the idle drops and stays to a nice number because i had to shut the car off earlier.. so im waiting for that chance again.. when i can start the car...
-
I have replaced many many many parts. the only issue i have left is that the car will start only start once a day. it starts up fine. but only starts once a day. i have another forum in the troubleshooting section but it seems not many pay too much attention to it.. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96222-car-not-starting-1983-280zx-turbo/
Please help me.. i have been working on this car for over a year.. and its getting reallly demotivating. i want to be part of this community.. but this car is being difficult. and i appoligize in advance if this breaks any rules.. but i figure i not too many ppl pay attention to the troubleshooting forum and that i may get very great assistance from the s130 side of the forum... since my car is an s130..
1983 280zx turbo
5 speed
Things Replaced..
vac hoses
afm
02 sensor
ign coil
spark plug/wire
dist cap/rotor
battery
cleaned connection
all fuses
timing chain pulley etc..
water pummp
fuel pump (walbro 255)
fuel filter
oil filter
oil
iacv
tps
cleaned egr ports
not sure if im forgetting anything but the other post has alot more info.. thanks in advance...
-
replaced o2 sensor and crank positioning sensor..
Problem.
car only starts once .. no matter how long i let it run.. even if it were for a brief second.. the car doesnt start up a second time. usually have to wait about a day for it to start again... veryyyy weird.. its not a flooded system either.. and spark is still there.. sommmeeeonnnnee helllllpp mee!!!
-
-
There is nothing to be "wiped" on the ECU so that is not it. The symptoms sound like there is gunk that clogs your fuel pickup which then settles out after some time so that you can start the car again. I know you measured fuel pressure, but did you measure it while the engine is struggling/dying? That is necessary to rule out the fuel problem. You could also run your fuel pickup and return hoses to a gas can and see if that makes a difference.
The other thing that seems weird is that your timing seems to be changing on the fly. Maybe your crank angle sensor (in the distributor) is failing as it heats up. If you have access to an oscilloscope you can probe the contacts at the ECU connector (check FSM for which ones) and verify that you have a pulsed signal when the engine is turning over.
would a bad crank angle sensor still generate spark? i figure one that is failing due to heat may prob just cause an adjusted spark and throw off timing. thanks for the reply. i think there probably was gunk clogging the fuel system. i dont have access to a pressure reader at the moment but by how spontaneous the non starting issue is. it seems like it may be right, will clean out the tank when i get the chance. thanks DCZ
Update : got car to start again.. shut it off while it was still cold (1k rpm range) tried to start again.. wouldnt start. checked the plugs.. coated in black (fuel). i dont know if this can also be related to a bad crank angle sensor. or if i have a vac leak somewhere.. but at the same time.. i figure even with a vac leak.. my car should still start and run.. but just rough. i cleaned the plugs with brakecleaner and a lighter as explained to me by my brother (mechanic for honda for many years...) and cheked for spark, still got plenty. maybe there is a relation to all this? or just separate problems..
update (july 17th) started the car. for like 5 seconds.. then turn it off.. tried to start again.. it didnt go.. hmm help please?
-
thanks for reply cgsheen!
yes i checked plugs and they are in normal condition.
UPDATE!
i started the car today and it ran fine. soo its not a fuel or any of that kind of issue. i let it run and warm up. rpm ran nicely then droooooped slowly... till it finally was at like 600 rpm.. i was sure at this point its something related to that.. soo i shut off the car already expecting that it wont start. and boom it didnt. soo i checked timing and it is fine. fuel is fine.. but what can this be? it just keeps dropping. of course i can just hold in the throttle but that wouldnt be good.. soo it seems i have to wait a few days before i can start it each time.. any clue? O2 sensor? iono... but it seems once i wait a few days itll start again.. and this is a few days with the negative off of the battery (no power) soo... any idea? i figure the ecu wipes itself either immediately on these cars.. or withing a few hours.. but why must i wait a couple days? help me figure this out! thanks again!
-
Update!
replaced the AFM and voila... the car ran, no smoke.. seems to run perfect!!!! then shut off the car ran it again! it ran! so i went to sleep.. next day!
i tried starting again! it ran! but this time i let it run a bit longer. i checked the timing.. then noticed that i had to keep the distributor turned all the way counter clock wise just to keep it in the 25 range... then i noticed the mark started dropping .. and well i couldn't turn it anymore so it started running rough again, a bit of richness from the exhaust. so i shut the car off. tried to start again.. it wouldn't start..
i checked spark, compression and all that again.. it seems fine.
1 week later. i was thinking maybe my fuel meter on the car is reading bad. its at 3 bars but i don't know i just thought maybe that's why the mark kept dropping... so i went and got fuel.. I REGRET not starting the car first before getting fuel cause now i don't know whether if me getting more fuel for the car was what got it to start again! but this time i let it warm up! the rpm dropped to like 700 and ran nice. but i shut it off and tried again. it didn't start.... i figured maybe its a warm starting issue.. i kept cranking it to try to start and sometimes it'll catch a bit.. but nothing that will keep the car running.. so ii figured maybe ill try again tomorrow..
i tried.. still didn't start..
anyone knows what i should check now.. its like god wont give me a break. but i will keep pushing forward. i doubt the car ate 2 gallons of gas idling for about 3-4 minutes... give me insight! if anyone has a 280zx around the long beach California area and would like to drive over so i can take a look.. please do me this favor. i want to get moving with this car already! ill even give you a 20 on gas. help a brother out..
-
Have you measured fuel pressure? It's important. Also, you should probably avoid "adjusting" the Air flow Meter (AFM) until you can at least get a good idle. You'll just create more problems.
You should check your CHTS resistance reading at the ECCS connector to see if it is working correctly. A broken circuit would tell the ECCS that the engine is cold and dump fuel accordingly. Checking at the connector tells you if the wiring and the sensor are all working correctly.
The FSM has a good troubleshooting section in the EFEC section. Just jump ahead to Page 36. The AFM and CHTS are both described.
Measured today. i measured after the regulator since thats just before it goes tot he injectors and i got it measured at 40 as the fuel pump pumps, then it flicks to 30 when done pumping, at start it goes to about 37. as i read this all seems normal...
will continue with the rest of your ideas. but people please give me more input! this car has been sitting way to long.
Rear Tail Housing bushing t5
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted · Edited by WaiDai
Part 28 anyone? maybe a rock auto link?