mjm

Called a friend of mine and he has an 85 300zxt parts car that still has OEM axle shafts in it that I can have so I'm going to send back both rebuilt units, modify the OEM axles, install new boot kits and should be good to go - guess I shot myself in the foot with the rebuilt units.

The axle I took apart is the shorter one for drivers side - I'm going to put it back together and return. Guess I'll try to find a used one and modify it. In searching the forums I found references to guys not altering the passenger side, apparently enough room on that side to use the axle in original length. Still would like to hear a definite answer to whether the inner race to be flipped is on the outboard cv joint at wheel end.

Had Modern Motorsports weld up adapters to my companion flanges for 300zxt axles. Got them back and they look great - nice welding. Thought I was doing good by ordering rebuilt axles - had to order one from NAPA and the other side from another source. NAPA part # 9071, other axle is a Cardone rebuild part # 60-6058. Took the Cardone apart, first the outer cv end and found that flipping the inner race would make no difference in length - the took the end that goes into differential to find that if that inner race is flipped it would result in axle increasing in length - looks like inner races are new - thinking that when it was rebuilt that the inner races were replaced with some generic units that do not have the same shape as OEM. Have not taken the NAPA rebuild apart yet to see if same set up. First question, is it the end at the wheel end that gets the race flipped and has anyone come up against this in the past?

Have an injected V8 Z (regular small block chev, not LS1) in Cypress area - NW suburb of Houston thats up and running - got about 1100 miles on her so far - runs well - couple of citations allready

I went with the weir bellhousing mated to my ramjet 350 which allowed the use of the much less expensive standard type clutch - the fella at weir will sell you a tilton master cylinder which works perfect with their internal slave cylinder - I think it was a 1" bore - due to it being slightly longer than original Z master, wwasher reservior needed to be relocated - I took off the fittings from the master and slave and had NAPA fabricate a hydraulic hose that was completely hose except for the fittings at the ends - straight fitting at slave end and 90 degree fitting at master end - inexpensive and performs great - you will be happy with the weir setup

Thanks, have a 2000 year tank assembly with all the fixins being delivered this morning and look forward to plumbing it in and seeing how the car will perform with proper fuel supply

I am considering installing plastic tank/fuel module and need to hear from those that have daily driving experience with this setup. In doing a search, it sounded like there was at least 4 out there that have done this conversion, but it appeared that some were in the middle of extensive restoration/modifications and may not be driving the cars for some time. Specifically interested in ability to fill properly, fuel leaks, tips on venting, fuel lines, connecting filler neck - basically how happy those of you that are pounding pavement are with the conversion. I designed a surge tank from a fuel filter cannister and not achieving the results I was looking for - will redesign or convert to plastic tank/pump module with your valued input.

A simple yet very effective way to bleed air from your slave system is to fill your master with fluid - apply vacuum to master - usually a small hole in center of reservior cap - any trapped air will boil out of system within a few seconds - then when vacuum is removed the level will drop to replace the air that was displaced - your done - bleeding complete with no wasted fluid - if you have ever had to bleed the clutch system on the Ford Ranger models whose system is designed poorly with master mounted in a position that traps air - this info will save hours of misery

My brother and I own a auto mechanical repair shop in Cypress and subscribe to repair info services that have wiring diagrams, pinouts, etc needed to correctly service and repair the ever growing number of makes and models running the streets - glad you were able to locate the info that you needed - information is everything nowadays - take care

Post or email me your fax# and I will fax you the powertrain control module pinout info on the 99 Suburban

I live in the Houston area and am interested - let me know what your sister wants for them