madlarkin

The orange rustbucket keeps on giving. I still throw my vote in for patching the big horrible hole using the donor as a panel. Just seems to have the fewest possible scary issues involved. I remember the rust on the leading edge, are there any other issues? Looks like you trimmed it down, I thought I cut it longer.

Check out www.uscomposites.com for resin. I have used there 435 general layup polyester for a number of projects and it is great, even the general purpose stuff is a dream to work with and you can't beat $25-$29 a gallon.

I apologize for the confusion, it is actually a sub-3k VIN '70 car although a different member of the club is the owner of car HLS30-00013 with a 10/69 build date

Hey Folks, Trying to help out a local buddy of mine who is rehabbing a mostly original '69 240Z. He has the original driver side rear speaker with the bracket but the speaker cone not surprisingly is disintegrating. I am looking to either recone or replace the speaker in question. IIRC Datsun used an oddball size(4 3/4"), does anybody know if this carried on in to any later vehicles? If I can get a confirmation on the sizing I may be able to track down a replacement cone from another source. The rear speaker out of the 280ZX looks close, anyone have first hand experience with them? I did some searching on the forum but most speaker threads seem to focus around improvement and not replacing/repairing the OEM equipment Thanks!

Wow, small word. If you see a white 370 riding around give a wave, think I am still the only one in the area

Snyper, Amazing stuff, man. Are you in the Meriden area? I think I may have seen the car out and about on the road.

Hopefully I can get the car up on the rotisserie by the end of the month and start working on it. I have settled on the 1x3 .120, although I am thinking about ordering a set of the BD rails just to check them out. Worst case scenario I just resell them local

Does this serve the same function as the desired slightly rough finish when porting cylinder heads or am I completely off base?

I'm drawing a blank on the exact application but I believe the dimpled surface has already been used on underpans and aero parts in motorsports, it might be F1 I am thinking of. I think it was mentioned in an article in Racecar Engineering 3-4 years back.

Thanks for the input, I figured that .120 would be fine but wanted some sort of confirmation. The car is mostly going to see sunny day street time and HPDEs.

I just realized how ambiguous that was, my bad. I was trying to figure out of something of that dimension would be stiff enough to even consider. The car has an RB25 waiting to get swapped with the intended power goal of 400whp +-.

Hi Folks, Just doing the research into a set of fabricated box steel framerails as opposed to the BD option. It seems like the most common solution is 2x3 box steel but have seen a couple people going with 1"x3". I would like to keep them external from the cabin to avoid raising the floor, would 1x3 .120 wall be stiff enough for the intended purpose? The other option would be 1.5x3 .188 wall but that seems to be a bit overkill. Cheers!

Giorgio: Be weary of the asphalt based stuff you find at HD/Lowes. Outside of the nasty outgassing problems, asphalt based dampeners have serious longevity issues. Heat and temp cycling can cause all sorts of issues. Some people have had good long term success but it isnt uncommon to take a look a few years down the line and see the dampener melted and pooled or peeling off the car. I have personally had to clean up the mess of that once and it is not pretty. In testing it is also the least efficient in terms of material vs results, less of a good quality vinyl/butyl based damnper will go a lot further