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zatsun

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About zatsun

  • Birthday 01/24/1986

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  1. Responded to a PM, but I'll let you guys know if that falls through. Thanks again guys!
  2. Took my head to the machine shop and IDK if they lost one or if there was actually only one holding the valve in, but they are missing one. If anyone has one (or pair) of these laying around, really need it! Not sure if there are differences between keepers in this valve and valves of other l28 heads, but my head is an N47 with the cast-in exhaust liners.
  3. Backing up the truck here...really? Can anyone else confirm this? If so, I would reckon the Eclipse 210cc injectors will work for my stock L28..
  4. Upgrading to Pallnet o-ring style fuel rail, not barbed, but I'm still non-turbo. Stock flow rates for L28 injectors are 190-200cc and i believe are the low-impedance type. My friend had a hell of a time figuring out his MS install, having to add resistors to the injector leads.. that is how I know they are low impedance. I need a comparable type/flow injector that will fit this style of fuel rail and manifold. Any ideas? Once I go turbo I will reuse this rail with (probably) the supra style injectors. But that isn't for a year or two.
  5. Don't have a valve spring compressor, so couldn't inspect the guide. Head at machine shop now. The owner used to have a 280, so I'm confident when I get it back it'll be good as new. Getting pressure checked too since I was losing coolant. $150 clean, valve job, machine face,etcf $35 pressure check ~$10/valve $50 remove 2 broken manifold studs. Didn't even know those bolts were missing, should fix exhaust tick!
  6. I did read that once about the engine sitting. I haven't taken a look at the guides, what causes this? Corrosion that can be cleaned up or do they need to be replaced?
  7. I've only had the car for a few months, on the road around the neighborhood maybe 20 miles. The timing chain, water pump, distributor, clutch, and lots of other small stuff was redone about a year before I bought it and never ran right so it sat. Maybe the timing chain busted before and thats what caused it. Like I said, it has a new chain now and I know it will be adjusted right when it goes back together, so whatever is wrong with the head, in addition to valve, will be fixed at machine shop. Never heard of the last thing you mentioned BRAAP about the rocker falling over, but everything looked OK under the valve cover. BTW the clearance for the rocker-cam was .019 if I remember correctly. This is probably because now the valve isn't seating all the way, not because the adjusting screw is off. The other valves are all in spec.
  8. Just to explain how far it was bent..
  9. No no. The valve clearance between rocker and can isn't what I was referring to. I was measuring the distance between open valve and head face on the bowl side. the side of the valve, where it is supposed to seal on the seat, is practically touching the top of the bowl when valve is open.
  10. Nevermind, I've got the N47 Head/N42 Block. I'll assume the pistons are stock but they have a dish to them. Will the P79 head my friend has work? I'm a bit confused on what I've read about interchangeability. Will the valves clear or will it mess up compression ratios? **edit** Arg. Found the L28 calculator. I see now it would drop my CR into the 7s and I'm not really up for changing pistons or milling the head down + shimming cam to bring it back proper. Will take my current head to NAPA on Monday to see what they have to say.. Will make sure they check out that valve guide too.
  11. Hey my buddy has a p79 head, same as mine i believe, with fresh rebuild, 3 angle valve job, and some "new parts" not sure what exactly but I think its a steal at $100 that he'll give it to me for. I'll eventually go Turbo swap including block and head, but I want to do suspension, wheels, and brakes first. So this motor doesn't need to be anything special nor spend more than necessary to make it reliable for a year or two. After head, gasket set, fluids, new used fpr and etc I may be able to get it back together for under $250
  12. Oh, and the headgasket was just fine. Not sure how I lost as much coolant as I did. Like I said before the radiator cap seal was bad and I didn't have a catch tank, but sure seems like a lot to boil over/slosh out.
  13. Pulled the head today. The #6 exhaust valve hit the piston. Put a little ding in it on the rearmost part of the piston. The valve bent back to the back of the engine so far that I can barely get the .010 feeler gauge between it and the head when the valve is open. On the front exhaust valve (#1) there is way more clearance. Not sure how much exactly but biggest size on feeler gauge fits. So now what? I don't think I'd tear the bottom end apart to fix that piston. Can probably get a pic at some point, but its an arc about a 6 mm long and less than 1 mm deep. As for the head, I'm open to suggestions. How much do you think it'll cost to get the head fixed, as I'm guessing the bent valve tore up the seat. And the $ for a new valve. Or should I just find a new head?
  14. If it's a factory one, it needs to fit a 77 rail. Thanks guys.
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